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I had a low pedal before I swapped out new pads and new rotors.
Pads and rotors were very thin .
Still low pedal.
Bled master cylinder.
Still lowpedal.
I put a mew master cylinder and booster .
Still low.
System was never dry and bled thoroughly each time I worked on it.
If you not losing fluid and you bleed all the air out, then you have an internal leak somewhere. 99% of the time is a bad master cylinder. You might have gotten a bad master cylinder.
I would first try to bleed the brakes. It usually works 9 out of 10 times. DO it according to the book. Some say the nearest caliper first then progressively work to the farthest, left front, right front,left rear,and lastly right rear. And some say the other way from farthest to nearest. You must also be careful with some systems that utilize ABS and computer control bias braking systems. If it worked fine before you changed the pads, chances are that there is not an internal leak. That is, unless you damaged something in the pad replacement process.
Just a thought...check the self adjusting emergency brake cables. Mine were streched and required replacing to get the proper adjustment. Don't know if this will solve your problem, but worth a look.
The holy crap low brake pedal.Been there done that.More than likely you still have air in brake system.I had a C-3 I ran 3 bottles of brake fluid thru and still couldn't get high pedal.Had to pressure bleed brake system before got good pedal.Some suggest tapping calipers with rubber mallet,which I did,to get trapped air clinging to inside calipers to bleed out.Air takes alot of pressure away from brake system.Also moisture in brake system does same thing.The water has to compress first again robbing brake system.Brake specialists suggest changing brake fluid at least every one to two years due to moisture.
If you don't use the emergency brake very often, then there is the problem. The emergency brake sets the rear brake pad to rotor gap. This excessive gap takes alot of pedal. If using the emergency brake doesn't fix it, then like said above try changing brake hoses.
I feel that it's definately the parking brake or the lack of it's use........ in fact I've seen these get to the point that the rear calipers had to be replaced or rebuilt.......if you decide to rebuild them you will ned actuators (pistons)
If you have A.B.S. then you'll have to take it to a dealership to bleed the A.B.S. system. They have to hook into the A.B.S. control module and cycle the air out. I've also seen people drive on grass or dirt and try to lock up the wheels which will activate the system. Try that and re-bleed the brakes without pumping the master. Have one person open the bleeder and push the pedal "once" to the floor and hold it till the bleeder is closed. Hope this helps. ;)
The ebrake has nothing to do with the hydralics. The ebrake is a cable accuation on the drum on the inside of the rotor.
:rolleyes: The cable turns a lever that turns a worm gear on the inside of the caliper. The worm gear pushes out on the brake pad. Take a look at your pad to rotor gap. It should be no more than a 1/16" total