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You need a bigger drill! 15 second bursts is not going to do it. I am guessing that you tightened the valves too tight and foced the plunger down into the lifter since they were not full of oil.
If it were me, I would back off on all the rocker arms to the point that you can move the arm off the rod. Pull the distributor and with a good 1/2 inch drill prime the oil for about 5-10 minutes not stopping.
Then turn the crank to line up the timing marks with compression on #1 as you approach lining up the marks. Then follow the directions I gave you above and use a feeler gauge instead of twisting the rod. Just tighten the nut VERY SLOWLY as you pull on the gauge until you feel a little resistance...remove the gauge and turn the nut 3/4 of a turn.
Your ZZ4 has a stock cam. My ZZ4 I installed a Lingenfelter 74211 cam with a .534 lift and used the above method to adjust the valves without a problem.
My experience with this is that you set the clearance spinning the rod, you do it ONE TIME and call it good. If you keep rechecking, the rod will spin every time due to the lifter bleeding off, so you keep cranking down on the nut.
powerpigz-51 .... you only tighten them once....don't go back and recheck and tighten again. You will just be forcing the rod down farther into the lifter.
You need to get some oil into the lifters and start again with no pressure from the rod on ANY of the lifters.
I have found that finding zero lash is much easier if you are using poly locks with the set screw lock. You can tighten the nut with your fingers until it just snugs up and that is the point of zero lash. Then tighten 1/2 turn and lock the set screw. They are worth the money for that alone.
I had the same issue with my new engine, the shop manual states one turn from zero lash. However my lifters were not stock, they only needed 1/4 turn after zero lash.
My new lifters had been primed in an oil bath, either i got some bad lifters or they need only 1/4 turn.