C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Stripped IAC Worm Gear?

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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:41 PM
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Default Stripped IAC Worm Gear?

As some of you know, I'm having problems with my idle being too high. Someone suggested a stripped worm gear on the IAC, and I suspect that's the case. When I jumped ALDL pins A and B to get the IAC to extend so I could set the base idle, I noticed the IAC was making a rattling noise and the connector was heavily vibrating. I can't find a picture of what the pintle looks like, but I'm assuming it's the "wall" sticking up out of the bottom of the TB several inches back? If so, I can see that sticking up ~1/3". When I turn the engine to "on" with pins A and B jumped it doesn't move at all. I'm assuming this is because the gear is stripped?
If so, does anyone have a link to a replacement gear? I'm looking, and all I've found is this: http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1989-1994.html. I'd rather not spend $115 plus shipping to fix a stripped gear.

EDIT: Okay, I found one for $23. Guess this isn't as big of a deal as I thought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Air-Control-Valve-IAC-/271520794748?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1990%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item3f37e6887c&vxp=mtrI'd still like to confirm that the gear is stripped though.

My car is a 1990.

Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Aug 25, 2014 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 03:55 PM
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Here is one I found on ebay, it's a Delphi which was one of GMs suppliers for OE parts....I have used Delphi parts many times...WW

Again this has free shipping...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-CV10029-Idle-Air-Control-Motor-/271584989005?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1989%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item3f3bba0f4d&vxp=mtr#ht_1811wt_1206

Last edited by WW7; Aug 28, 2014 at 06:22 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Pat, here is one I found on ebay, it's a Delphi which was one of GMs suppliers for OE parts....I have used Delphi parts many times...WW

Again this has free shipping...
Delphi CV10029 Idle Air Control Motor | eBay
Thanks for the link. Although my name isn't Pat
I found one from AC Delco, but it was a bit more.
Amazon.com: ACDelco 217-415 Idle Air Control Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: ACDelco 217-415 Idle Air Control Kit: Automotive
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Sorry I thought you were someone else.....The one you found will probably work, but it says it's a generic brand.....It's up to you but I feel better buying from a company that I've heard of...... It says it has a warrenty but how long??? 30 days ......30 minutes.......WW
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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I don't know if the ac delco is better then the Delphi , but I know either one of them is better then the one for $23.00.......I agree with checking to make sure the old IAC is bad before buying a new one, these old cars have enough parts go bad without replacing stuff that still works.....WW
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Sorry I thought you were someone else.....The one you found will probably work, but it says it's a generic brand.....It's up to you but I feel better buying from a company that I've heard of...... It says it has a warrenty but how long??? 30 days ......30 minutes.......WW
It has a 12 month warranty, which is just as long as the AC Delco unit.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
I don't know if the ac delco is better then the Delphi , but I know either one of them is better then the one for $23.00.......I agree with checking to make sure the old IAC is bad before buying a new one, these old cars have enough parts go bad without replacing stuff that still works.....WW
Fair point. Although for the AC Delco unit to be worth it, it would have to last 3x as long. Does that sound feasible?
Since the "wall" AKA the pintle in the throttle body doesn't raise when I turn the key to "on" with ALDL pins A and B jumped, yet I can hear the motor running, I'm pretty sure it's bad. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Don't know what year is your Vette but here is a link to an '85-'88 Vette IAC at Rock Auto for ~$80, along with a pic of the assy.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
Don't know what year is your Vette but here is a link to an '85-'88 Vette IAC at Rock Auto for ~$80, along with a pic of the assy.
Thanks, but mine's a 1990. Sorry, probably should have included that in my first post.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 05:04 PM
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http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...rol_valve.html
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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Thanks.
Now I just need to confirm it's broken. I'm pretty sure it is, but I'd like assurance.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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the housing for the IAC gets carboned up; it's pretty easy to clean
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
the housing for the IAC gets carboned up; it's pretty easy to clean
Thanks. I'll take it out and clean it to see if that helps.
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
When I jumped ALDL pins A and B to get the IAC to extend so I could set the base idle, I noticed the IAC was making a rattling noise and the connector was heavily vibrating. I can't find a picture of what the pintle looks like, but I'm assuming it's the "wall" sticking up out of the bottom of the TB several inches back?
When you jump pins A & B the ECM starts pulsing the IAC to extend the pintle. It will continue to do that as long as you have A & B connected together. That's why it vibrates and makes a noise.

The pintle is inside the throttle body. You cannot see it unless you take the IAC out. The IAC is a stepper motor. It has a threaded shaft and turning the motor makes the shaft move in and out. There is a special integrated circuit (stepper motor driver) inside the ECM that handles the movement of the IAC.
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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To clean it you need to remove the throttle body, then unscrew the IAC. You then have to remove the screws from the bottom plate to get to the air channels that feed the IAC..Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush will get the job done on the channels...There will probably be buildup on the pintle tip also, you can just shoot the brake cleaner on the tip to clean it , just be careful not to break the pintle..Reassemble all back together...WW
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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Dude Your IAC or air-bypass valve is a Stepper-motor with I think a worm gear and has maybe 125 different possible commandable steps and usually fails at its last commanded step and triggers a check engine light. All it does is, it throws air passed the throttle plate to vary Idle without having to crack the butterfly manually thru a coolant temp for start up and then under certain engine load up conditions. Once u move the throttle/butterfly thur the TPS. The IAC is done/not used/turned off/not needed.

Any problems with that, commands that u, remove the throttle body assy and do the usual complete soak and clean of the throttle body and its passages. While thats being done you check the resistance of the IAC Itself { with it off } or just jump it like you said and see if it does move or not.

If its moving smoothly, clean everything and put it back together, if not replace the IAC and set base Idle position and it will do its thing and hunt and learn and You'll be good
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
When you jump pins A & B the ECM starts pulsing the IAC to extend the pintle. It will continue to do that as long as you have A & B connected together. That's why it vibrates and makes a noise.

The pintle is inside the throttle body. You cannot see it unless you take the IAC out. The IAC is a stepper motor. It has a threaded shaft and turning the motor makes the shaft move in and out. There is a special integrated circuit (stepper motor driver) inside the ECM that handles the movement of the IAC.
I thought the IAC was visible by looking into the throttle body. Thanks for correcting me.
I finally found a video explaining how the IAC works. It's not at all like I thought.

For anyone that might use this thread as a resource in the future, here's the video:
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To Stripped IAC Worm Gear?

Old Aug 26, 2014 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cudamax
Dude Your IAC or air-bypass valve is a Stepper-motor with I think a worm gear and has maybe 125 different possible commandable steps and usually fails at its last commanded step and triggers a check engine light. All it does is, it throws air passed the throttle plate to vary Idle without having to crack the butterfly manually thru a coolant temp for start up and then under certain engine load up conditions. Once u move the throttle/butterfly thur the TPS. The IAC is done/not used/turned off/not needed.

Any problems with that, commands that u, remove the throttle body assy and do the usual complete soak and clean of the throttle body and its passages. While thats being done you check the resistance of the IAC Itself { with it off } or just jump it like you said and see if it does move or not.

If its moving smoothly, clean everything and put it back together, if not replace the IAC and set base Idle position and it will do its thing and hunt and learn and You'll be good
Thanks Cuda! What do you soak it in? And it looks like IAC resistance should be around 12Ω, right?
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
To clean it you need to remove the throttle body, then unscrew the IAC. You then have to remove the screws from the bottom plate to get to the air channels that feed the IAC..Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush will get the job done on the channels...There will probably be buildup on the pintle tip also, you can just shoot the brake cleaner on the tip to clean it , just be careful not to break the pintle..Reassemble all back together...WW
Brake cleaner won't hurt the throttle body? I'd heard throttle bodies have a coating of some sort on them and that carb cleaner would damage it; I'd assumed the same was true for brake cleaner.
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Not sure on the exact numbers but in my experience you have resistance or not. I used to just go to the parts counter at GM and get whatever they had to soak the tb in for an hr or 2 and scrub it and then blow it off with compressed air. The main thing you want to get is the crud off the throttle body's space in between the throttle body and the butterfly. Lowers O2 Cross counts and off Idle stumbles
Like this

Last edited by cudamax; Aug 26, 2014 at 03:33 PM.
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