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Since the shims are inbound of the carrier bearings, it's more involved setting up the D36. You must pull and re-press the bearings each time you adjust the amount or position of shims.
Are there special tools or methods specifically for this type diff to make the process less difficult and time consuming?
Since the shims are inbound of the carrier bearings, it's more involved setting up the D36. You must pull and re-press the bearings each time you adjust the amount or position of shims.
Are there special tools or methods specifically for this type diff to make the process less difficult and time consuming?
Any write ups on the process?
Thanks.
Get an OLD/USED set of carrier bearings. Take a Dremel Tool and grind/clearance the old bearings until they will they will press on the carrier by hand. You can pop them back off with a screw driver to move the shims around until you get it right before using the new bearings.
Sounds like a worthy plan as long as all carrier bearings for the D36 are the exact (or close) thickness.
Are they?
Yes, they will work fine. Just verify the final clearance with the new bearings installed. Back in my mechanic days I kept several modified bearings for setting up GM and Dana rear-ends. It's a pain to pull the new bearings to move a shim with the proper tools and still risk damaging the new bearing.
When I put new bearings and seals in my D36 I honed out the old bearings until they barely slipped on and off with a little help and used them for set up.
Considering the existing bearings are in good condition, I was planing on reusing them. I've had gear swaps done on three other vehicles in my days and never replaced carrier bearings. Pinion bearing maybe, but not carrier. Always reused them.
Considering the existing bearings are in good condition, I was planing on reusing them. I've had gear swaps done on three other vehicles in my days and never replaced carrier bearings. Pinion bearing maybe, but not carrier. Always reused them.
If that's your plan there's no need in borrowing anything. Bolt your ring gear to the carrier "as is" do your pinion install properly and see where you end up.
Your previous installs were likely Eaton style units where the shimming is done in the bearing cap "outside" the carrier bearings. The Dana is done inside between the carrier and the bearing.
In your original post you seemed to understand the procedure but I don't get your desire to save the $30 or so $$'s involved in the purchase of new bearings. You actually should buy an install package, six bearings, three seals and the incidentals included.
If that's your plan there's no need in borrowing anything. Bolt your ring gear to the carrier "as is" do your pinion install properly and see where you end up.
Your previous installs were likely Eaton style units where the shimming is done in the bearing cap "outside" the carrier bearings. The Dana is done inside between the carrier and the bearing.
In your original post you seemed to understand the procedure but I don't get your desire to save the $30 or so $$'s involved in the purchase of new bearings. You actually should buy an install package, six bearings, three seals and the incidentals included.
You're right. Anyway, the install kit I ordered has gasket and shims only. Maybe I'll return it and get one that includes bearings too.
Would it help to hone out the old pinion bearing and use it for setup as well?
You're right. Anyway, the install kit I ordered has gasket and shims only. Maybe I'll return it and get one that includes bearings too.
Would it help to hone out the old pinion bearing and use it for setup as well?
Yes the rear pinion bearing is often done that way also.
You're installing a "thick gear" on a 2 series carrier or? Your gear kit is new or? If yours is presently apart you might offer up some measurements to this thread:
Use the carrier "as is" to establish where you might be before pressing everything off of it and starting from scratch. The bearings are there so there's no reason not to. It's customary also to start with the same shim that is present on the pinion rear bearing also for the first go and then check the pinion depth.
Thanks for the tips. Most likely I'll have a guy up the street from me do the ring and pinion install but I'll be removing and installing the carrier from the car myself.
The 3.54's I have are a thick set designed to on to my 2 series carrier. (currently 2.59)
I've got all the parts including new bearings, seal and shims. What I dont see is a crush sleeve. Am I still missing this part or does the D36 not use a crush sleeve on the pinion?
Thanks for the tips. Most likely I'll have a guy up the street from me do the ring and pinion install but I'll be removing and installing the carrier from the car myself.
The 3.54's I have are a thick set designed to on to my 2 series carrier. (currently 2.59)
I've got all the parts including new bearings, seal and shims. What I dont see is a crush sleeve. Am I still missing this part or does the D36 not use a crush sleeve on the pinion?
The new pinion gear will dictate if a crush sleeve or shims are used for the pinion. Your original was shimmed at both pinion bearings. Whose gear kit did you buy? Whose kit did you buy? Generally a kit will include both shims and a crush sleeve.
Ratech for the install kit. # 348k. It has ring gear bolts and washers. Carrier bearings, races and shims. Pinion bearings, races, shims, pinion nut and seal.
Ratech for the install kit. # 348k. It has ring gear bolts and washers. Carrier bearings, races and shims. Pinion bearings, races, shims, pinion nut and seal.
No crush sleeve.
Pick up the phone and call Richmond, Richmond years ago duplicated the OE's use of bearing fitment. If it was shimmed originally that's how they did theirs. Today? Just make the call. I'd have both the gear kit part # and also the # from each component. I believe both will be marked. If not use the Richmond information links to change the kit part # to the content of the kit. I believe that can still be done on there web-site.
I'm sure there are a hundred guys on this forum that would love to swap you straight across with no hassle. Hopefully you can find a local guy. and be done in an afternoon.
I'm sure there are a hundred guys on this forum that would love to swap you straight across with no hassle. Hopefully you can find a local guy. and be done in an afternoon.
Yeah, I'm sure they would. I've got the D36. If/when time comes to dispose of the D44 it will not be a trade for a D36
Appreciate that but I ran the 2.59 for years and was happy with that. I could run most courses in 1st gear so I'm going back to it. Not so happy with the 3.45 in second gear (LT4 w/700R4)