Intake manifold gaskets/The Right Stuff Questions
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Austin Texas
Intake manifold gaskets/The Right Stuff Questions
Searching through the posts before replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my '94 LT1 I want to be sure I'm following the latest consensus approach and have two questions.
First, there seems to be consensus that The Right Stuff is the best sealant to use for the end seals. The Right Stuff comes in three flavors; I assume the one to use is The Right Stuff "Black Label" (the 4oz power can is PN 25223), right?
Second, the consensus seems to be no sealant on the gaskets themselves, right?
Interestingly the TDS for the product says "Re-torque will not be necessary after the product has cured" but I assume most folks do re-torque.
Thanks a million. John
First, there seems to be consensus that The Right Stuff is the best sealant to use for the end seals. The Right Stuff comes in three flavors; I assume the one to use is The Right Stuff "Black Label" (the 4oz power can is PN 25223), right?
Second, the consensus seems to be no sealant on the gaskets themselves, right?
Interestingly the TDS for the product says "Re-torque will not be necessary after the product has cured" but I assume most folks do re-torque.
Thanks a million. John
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: moraga ca
Correct about the Right Stuff Black. I always coat both sides of my FelPro intake gaskets (1205) with a very think coat of Permatex Ultra Blue. Haven't had an intake leak in dozens of intakes over the years. Retorque optional. Everyone does it different.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Jacksonville FL
If your talking intake to head, yes use Right Stuff black on the china wall, a good 3/8" bead. I used gasket tack on the actual head to manifold gasket to hold the gasket in place while I fumble around finding bolt holes. It is also a good sealant so nothing else needed. As for intake to runners and runners to plenum, I used nothing, just torqued to spec with no issues.
Oh and a dab of RTV on the intake bolts to make sure no oil creeps up the threads and puddles on your manifold.
Oh and a dab of RTV on the intake bolts to make sure no oil creeps up the threads and puddles on your manifold.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Austin Texas
Many thanks. John
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 557
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
If your talking intake to head, yes use Right Stuff black on the china wall, a good 3/8" bead. I used gasket tack on the actual head to manifold gasket to hold the gasket in place while I fumble around finding bolt holes. It is also a good sealant so nothing else needed. As for intake to runners and runners to plenum, I used nothing, just torqued to spec with no issues.
Oh and a dab of RTV on the intake bolts to make sure no oil creeps up the threads and puddles on your manifold.
Oh and a dab of RTV on the intake bolts to make sure no oil creeps up the threads and puddles on your manifold.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
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From: Jacksonville FL
Just a small dab enough to cover a couple of threads towards the top of the bolt. It will spread out on its own and help seal the threads up. If you use too much it will cause a kinda hydraulic pressure and may strip out the threads so be careful. If it acts like it is bottoming out before it looks like its made up, pull it back out and clean some of the RTV off. Not trying to scare ya, just be careful.
Team Owner
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From: SE NY
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Intake manifold gaskets/The Right Stuff Questions
For the gaskets I use a little RTV around the water passages and trail it down to the lands.
Set the intake base straight down into position; avoid any sliding motion. Tighten all the intake base bolts in seqence and steps to spec; use some Permatex on the bolt threads. BTW, all bolt holes had been chaced to remove any debris.
Once the base is torqued to spec, walk away and let it set for at least 24hrs for the RTV or RS to completely cure.
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From: Austin Texas
Just a small dab enough to cover a couple of threads towards the top of the bolt. It will spread out on its own and help seal the threads up. If you use too much it will cause a kinda hydraulic pressure and may strip out the threads so be careful. If it acts like it is bottoming out before it looks like its made up, pull it back out and clean some of the RTV off. Not trying to scare ya, just be careful.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Austin Texas
On my '88 I rough up and dimple the two china wall lands and rough up the mating intake base portions. I like to use two beads of black RTV to assure "enough".
For the gaskets I use a little RTV around the water passages and trail it down to the lands.
Set the intake base straight down into position; avoid any sliding motion. Tighten all the intake base bolts in seqence and steps to spec; use some Permatex on the bolt threads. BTW, all bolt holes had been chaced to remove any debris.
Once the base is torqued to spec, walk away and let it set for at least 24hrs for the RTV or RS to completely cure.
For the gaskets I use a little RTV around the water passages and trail it down to the lands.
Set the intake base straight down into position; avoid any sliding motion. Tighten all the intake base bolts in seqence and steps to spec; use some Permatex on the bolt threads. BTW, all bolt holes had been chaced to remove any debris.
Once the base is torqued to spec, walk away and let it set for at least 24hrs for the RTV or RS to completely cure.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,131
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From: Illinois/Wisconsin Line
Just a small dab enough to cover a couple of threads towards the top of the bolt. It will spread out on its own and help seal the threads up. If you use too much it will cause a kinda hydraulic pressure and may strip out the threads so be careful. If it acts like it is bottoming out before it looks like its made up, pull it back out and clean some of the RTV off. Not trying to scare ya, just be careful.
Last edited by cudamax; Sep 5, 2014 at 09:01 AM.