Oh no looks like my corvettes radiator took a dump and I need to replace it... I was thinking to replace it with a double row radiator from "engineering cooling company" for 175 but will this make a difference? or should I go with a new stock radiator for 125? Can someone explain the difference? And There was a puddle of coolant on the ground near the drain on the right side of the radiator.. is there anything I should try first?

 

rockauto has stock type radiators for less than $90, they work fine with a stock engine

 

I'd go with a DeWitt or a BeCool or just put the money into a new stock one.

 

First thing to do is to get under the car to find the leak source. Could be a bad hose or a bad clamp, Another possibility is a failing drain plug. If there's an AutoZone near you, they "rent" radiator pressure testers for free. Give them a deposit and when you bring it back, they give you your deposit back. Put some pressure in the cooling system and you will be able to see where the leak is.

If you aren't having any cooling issues and the car is street driven, a stock-style replacement radiator will work fine. My '87 still has the OEM radiator and I use the car for both autocross and track days. No cooling problems of any sort.

It would make sense to replace both hoses at the same time and get a new pressure cap. Once the old radiator is out, make sure to clean all of the dirt and debris from the A/C condenser. Use a garden hose to flush the gunk out from the back side. Same with anything in the gap between the radiator and condenser.

 

The Stock, Aluminum Core radiator works fine!...

 

Help!!! I stripped the connector for the lower trans line... I still got the radiator out... what can I do where can I. get a replacement!!!

 

1st.

what connector? the threaded fitting thats ON the steel tubing?
hmm... Get a 'die' and clean up the threads. Its a steel fitting so it will clean up. Its the female aluminum thats the soft spot.

IF that fitting is junk and hopeless, and do not think that THIS alternative is ANY easier, cause it ain;t, the pressure there is not horrible so you can make a clean cut and cut off the tubing and get a flare kit and make a new fitting & end, OR just make a hose end that has the fitting in the end. it CAN be fixed....to do it right might involve taking the steel line OFF....not fun. If you do that you may as well replace the whole piece. ANY trans shop can make one and shape it.

Regarding the radiator...
YES, I WOULD absolutely buy the engineered cooling products unit and here is WHY....

I bought thier 2 row radiator about...3 yrs ago. It was an easy sell. Their 2 row is 2 FULL rows of 1" cores. NOT 2 or 3 rows of 1/2" or 3/4 cores.....
No comparison. The 2 full 1" rows hold a bunch more coolant and provide a LOT more heat exchange area. For the price, its the best deal in town.

BTW, this is NOT chinese junk as many of the more knowlegable members here will tell you. There are other radiators out there other than a DW. The DW is a fine unit. No arguement there. However, it is not the only radiator available and the Eng CP radiator is very comparable in performance and hands down in price. My ECP radiator came with a new cap on a pretty cool lookin brass chain, a new low coolant sensor, both the trans fittings and IIRC it also came with new rubbers too. It came with some 'extras'...

example of the product:
My bored and enhanced engine tries to run hot because it is bored to the limits of the 350 sbc block. Its got some other 'goodies' in there as well. It likes to get hot. Just the way it is. Before the ECP radiator it was virtually impossible to get it under 230 with the a/c running in traffic or on the freeway in the Texas summer.Once it passed 230 it stayed there until it was parked overnight.

Now, WITH the ECP radiator I run (with a/c) 195-210 freeway with 100 ambient and 90% humidity, and it still hits 230 in traffic BUT the temps drop like a stone as soon as we're moving again and catching some fresh air....the radiator works. And thats with the tired *** cooling fan too !

So, IMHO, $175 for a real upgrade radiator that does what it is supposed to do, is a great investment in your engine. BTW...they will tell you that its a tight fit and some of the rubber mounting block has to be cut away to make the unit fit,.....this is TRUE ! you have to wrestle with a razor blade (get adult supervision if needed) and cut away as much as 1/4" on the edge of the rubber block so the FATTER, WIDER, larger capacity radiator will drop into the shroud and fit right. Its hell. I almost went to you-boob looking for a how-to video, but I gambled and followed Christy and "went for it"
Thats a deal breaker to some folks. I guess....
Seriously though, this is a good radiator and it works. You will not find a better replacement for that price and I can testify
(Insert hallelujah here) that its a good, reliable product.

have fun !

oh yeah, I think they sell those fittings in repair kits at the parts store. Its always the aluminum thats damaged, not the steel.

 

Its the threaded steal connector, the nut on the steel bolt has been stripped away, so I'm pretty sure it needs replacing. So it can't be loosened or tightened up.. but I'm not sure I would like to save it, I don't want to have to replace the entire line, I can flair the end, but I dont know If it'll reach anymore

 

Get a new piece of line. Cut the old one back to a straight spot and cut the new one to make it to the radiator. Then either flare both and use a coupler or use a compression fitting.

 

IIRC,

there is a pretty good straight section under the pass side eng pan along the edge where there is room enough to work and splice in a new section. Got to get it on a lift OR do the work on yer back...
OR you might jury rig a hose repair to get it to a shop where THEY can do it right.


TIP

pre-shape the new piece and DO use a $15 tubing bender tool from Harbor Freight to avoid kinks and cracks in the steel line when it bends...

good luck

 

Buy a trans cooler kit that comes with the lines, and just use it.