Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (Problem #2)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
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From: Thompson Falls MT
Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (Problem #2)
I took off my EGR pipe to replace the heat cover. When removing the heat sensor I notice the very top of the ceramic insulation was cracked and sure enough about 1/8" of it fell off. The rest of the ceramic insulation is still there but you can now see the first of the threads on the lead going into the sensor itself.
Now, when I start the car in the morning I get a SES light which is Code 32. After the engine warms up and I stop and start the car the light goes off and does not reappear throughout the day. I can stop and start all day long and I don't get the code again. Leave the car overnight, though, and the code reappears the next morning.
It appears that getting at the connector to change the sensor out will be a beast of a job--perhaps necessitating removal of the distributor. It connects to a wire right under the dist. Do you think it's the sensor giving me the code and if so, got any tips and changing that sensor easily?
Now, when I start the car in the morning I get a SES light which is Code 32. After the engine warms up and I stop and start the car the light goes off and does not reappear throughout the day. I can stop and start all day long and I don't get the code again. Leave the car overnight, though, and the code reappears the next morning.
It appears that getting at the connector to change the sensor out will be a beast of a job--perhaps necessitating removal of the distributor. It connects to a wire right under the dist. Do you think it's the sensor giving me the code and if so, got any tips and changing that sensor easily?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (TAC)
I tried to remove the broken sensor wire from back of the dist. and I did it,but couldnt fit my hands to snap the new wire and plug into place,so yes you gotta remove the dist. unless you have some tiny hands.
BUT...when you buy the new ceramic switch or sensor,most places will tell you to cut the old sensor off,and splice the new sensor into the old wire so you dont have to take all that stuff out.
I did that once before as well for a friends car when he didnt want to pull the dist. and so far,its been fine.
No more code 32.I used a posi lock connector on it to connect the wires and its never come off.
Btw,as you found out,the SES light wont harm anything,its just telling you the sensor is bad.Once you replace the ceramic sensor with a new one,disconnect the battery to erase the old code for a minute and then go driving.
:)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
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From: Thompson Falls MT
Re: Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (Bill's86Coupe)
Boy I hate poor engineering. Would it have hurt GM to make that connector another couple of inches toward the sensor? No. I thought about doing as you suggest and probably will...I just hate the thought of using a short cut solution. Oh well. BTW, does the posi lock connector look like the OEM connector? That would help a little. Is that a brand name or a "type" of connector? Thanks for the help.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 12,182
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From: Partying with the Cowboys cheerleaders in Mt. Olive, New Jersey
Re: Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (Bill's86Coupe)
That's right! Listen to Bill! He's one of the many with good knowhow! :cheers: By the way, I had that happen on the way back from the Vette Show 'n' Go. The SES came on while I was 'cruising' ;) on Rt.287. I checked the code after I got home and it was EGR related. The ceramic part does look a little damaged. Oh well, time for UnderHood Tango! :D
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (TAC)
When I had my intake base off and dist removed I noticed the location of that connector and so cut the wire and spliced in enough Grn wire to bring the connector up along the firewall to a point near the EGR sensor.
Later I had to replace that temp sensor and it was a piece of cake.
It realy isn't difficult to remove the dist and would be worth doing to correct that bit of GM engineering.
Later I had to replace that temp sensor and it was a piece of cake.
It realy isn't difficult to remove the dist and would be worth doing to correct that bit of GM engineering.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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Re: Code 32-EGR Temp Sensor??? (CoolVette86)
Thanks man..I try when I can!!
:D
For tac,or those who asked,
About the posi-lock conector,sorry it doesnt look anything like an OEM connector.In fact,it looks like a white tube.Both ends of the tube screws off and you slide the exposed wire into the end pieces then you just simply screw the ends back in the tube.Twist and lock.Inside is metal to provide good current.
It will not pull apart.I used these posi lock connectors to splice in a new harness connector for my fuel sending unit and its held up great all this time.Ive used other electrical connectors before and never felt safe with them.
Summit racing sells them and ive use them for misc jobs.
For a more professional look,you can use heat shrink tubing to splice in your wires.
Or do what 65Z01 said...I will prob. do this as well if I need to replace the switch again down the road...pull the dist. cut the connector off back there and use a longer wire and posi lock in place.That way the connector will reach longer out and the posi lock will be hidden back by the distributor where it cant be seen.
:)
:D
For tac,or those who asked,
About the posi-lock conector,sorry it doesnt look anything like an OEM connector.In fact,it looks like a white tube.Both ends of the tube screws off and you slide the exposed wire into the end pieces then you just simply screw the ends back in the tube.Twist and lock.Inside is metal to provide good current.
It will not pull apart.I used these posi lock connectors to splice in a new harness connector for my fuel sending unit and its held up great all this time.Ive used other electrical connectors before and never felt safe with them.
Summit racing sells them and ive use them for misc jobs.
For a more professional look,you can use heat shrink tubing to splice in your wires.
Or do what 65Z01 said...I will prob. do this as well if I need to replace the switch again down the road...pull the dist. cut the connector off back there and use a longer wire and posi lock in place.That way the connector will reach longer out and the posi lock will be hidden back by the distributor where it cant be seen.
:)
