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Does this apply to a 1985 Corvette?

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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Default Does this apply to a 1985 Corvette?

Hi guys, I am about to put in my new AC compressor, and was trying to find a flush kit and came across this video. Does what he is saying apply to a 1985 Corvette?

Thanks!
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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No, the R12 condensor core tubes, are a lot larger compared to the R134A core in that video.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:01 PM
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I think he brings up a good point. In a perfect job with money no object. Its the right thing to do. IMO If a compressor has failed and shattered all its guts through the system, are you really getting all that crap out?

Has anyone ever cut one open?

Heck no. Maybe just maybe you could flush out some or most of the crap.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cudamax
I think he brings up a good point. In a perfect job with money no object. Its the right thing to do. IMO If a compressor has failed and shattered all its guts through the system, are you really getting all that crap out?

Has anyone ever cut one open?

Heck no. Maybe just maybe you could flush out some or most of the crap.
Honestly, I don't care if it stays in there as long as it never hurts my AC compressor.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielRicany
Hi guys, I am about to put in my new AC compressor, and was trying to find a flush kit and came across this video. Does what he is saying apply to a 1985 Corvette? Why Flushing AC Systems Does Not Work Anymore - YouTube

Thanks!
Never take advice on cars from John Lennon.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 02:14 PM
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This is NOT the entire reason that you flush the system and he is WRONG about a couple things...

1st of all, the high pressure goes to the orifice tube first where much debris is caught when a compressor grenades/fails. Then it gets trapped for the most part in the EVAPORATOR where it will NEVER come out because there are 857 miles of evap tubing in that little box...
Then, it makes the trip to the condenser (that's very cheap to replace $75) and to the DRYER where the majority of the small traveling debris is caught in the dryer substrate.

So, the reason we flush is to chase out the old OIL and goo created by microscopic wear particles that are carried in the OIL. If you do not have a good air compressor don;'t bother. It takes HUGE amounts of air to flush (half assed) the evaporator and lets assume the condenser gets replaced with the dryer.

To do a decent repair with a new compressor:
you need to buy a dryer ($10)
a condenser ($75 at the most)
a new orifice tube ($7)
a qt of alcohol or flush ($10)
an O-ring kit ($8)
and your oil and gas.

The big trash in a C4 system gets caught in the orifice tube and the small is stuck in the oil sludge, THATS why we flush when swapping compressors. If you want it to last, you gotta buy this other stuff too.
A/C ain;t cheap....that's why its $1200 to $1500 at a shop.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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If you need a new compressor, it's probably worthwhile to convert the system to R134a at the same time.

And I would suggest that once you have the compressor in place, have a qualified A/C technician do the work. A reptuable shop will not only have a tech, but also the equipment necessary to do the work properly.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
This is NOT the entire reason that you flush the system and he is WRONG about a couple things...

1st of all, the high pressure goes to the orifice tube first where much debris is caught when a compressor grenades/fails. Then it gets trapped for the most part in the EVAPORATOR where it will NEVER come out because there are 857 miles of evap tubing in that little box...
Then, it makes the trip to the condenser (that's very cheap to replace $75) and to the DRYER where the majority of the small traveling debris is caught in the dryer substrate.

So, the reason we flush is to chase out the old OIL and goo created by microscopic wear particles that are carried in the OIL. If you do not have a good air compressor don;'t bother. It takes HUGE amounts of air to flush (half assed) the evaporator and lets assume the condenser gets replaced with the dryer.

To do a decent repair with a new compressor:
you need to buy a dryer ($10)
a condenser ($75 at the most)
a new orifice tube ($7)
a qt of alcohol or flush ($10)
an O-ring kit ($8)
and your oil and gas.

The big trash in a C4 system gets caught in the orifice tube and the small is stuck in the oil sludge, THATS why we flush when swapping compressors. If you want it to last, you gotta buy this other stuff too.
A/C ain;t cheap....that's why its $1200 to $1500 at a shop.
Well said and enough said besides one thing, an old condenser usually tends to give slightly to real bad, higher pressure's depending on the amount of crap left in there and the condition of the cooling fins. And the 134 is already running slightly higher. Just another reason to do it like ur spending someones elses money. It gets done right. And you are or have converted over right? Doesn't make sense to anyone running 12 anymore. Its just too damn much, even thou it does blow colder.

Last edited by cudamax; Sep 20, 2014 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 07:29 PM
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I bought the conversion kit and I installed and flushed everything myself today. I didn't replace the condenser, lines, or evaporator. I flushed with AC Pro Flush and Clean, and with a paint reducer.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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Did you pull the condenser and flush it out that way, I like to shake it around and then turn it sideways and let it drain out and then blow it out sideways. Thats the only way I'd feel good about re-using and the orifice valve needs replaced and or checked and cleaned.

The orifice valve is the key. Once looked at will tell ya about what might of gotten pushed thru the system. IMO but you do know my stance on things

Last edited by cudamax; Sep 20, 2014 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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No I didn't pull it out. I used a hose and poured it into the hole. When I blew air through it a ton of reducer and flush fluid came out.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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if the orifice has ANY dirt or crap in the screen,.......guess what?

your a/c repair ain't gonna cool....at all !

That's not optional. You GOTTA pull the orifice tube and if nothing else, clean it..or else.
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 10:59 PM
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I had one of the old 84-87 compressors destroy itself, yes they make a mess and you need to clean everything. Replacing the orifice tube and accumulator is a must.

Trichlorethyne i believe it was called was used in the refrigeration industry ad a cleaning agent, it is a liquid you could pump it through pipes etc and when it evaporated it left no trace.

I used that stuff and flushed the crap out of all the lines, hoses, condenser and evaporator. Then blew dry nitrogen through. It got rid of everything and was cheaper than alcohol.

Unfortunately it is now known to be a carcinogenic and no longer available.

It did the job and i upgraded to the 88-91 a/c compressor which is a lot more reliable, that was around 10 years ago and she still runs great with R134A.

Yes replacing parts is the norm now, however things were flushed clean in the old days and it worked. You just used a drill with a pump and could blast that stuff through with a lot of force.

Alcohol is still available

Now i just have to hope i do not get cancer from all my years of using that stuff
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 01:08 AM
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You got a bunch of darned good advice already, especially from leesvette. you can do it halffast like you are thinking and then you will get to do it again. Do it once & do it right, it's cheaper.
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
if the orifice has ANY dirt or crap in the screen,.......guess what?

your a/c repair ain't gonna cool....at all !

That's not optional. You GOTTA pull the orifice tube and if nothing else, clean it..or else.
I was referring to the condenser in my previous post.
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 10:05 AM
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The kit included a compressor, accumulator, orifice, washer seals, and R12 to R134a fittings as well as a bottle of synthetic Ester oil.

I think I cleaned it out pretty good. I put everything together and charged it, it's colder than it's ever been.
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 02:27 PM
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good deal !

the key to ANY a/c work is cleanliness ! and keeping the attitude that there are certain parts that simply MUST be replaced whenever the system is opened.
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 02:41 PM
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Oh I did evacuate it by the way, before someone comments about that. Haha.
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Old Sep 23, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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Contrary to popular belief, evacuating the system is not necessarily to remove air to provide more room for gas, its to remove Moisture, to prevent refrigerant gas & water from mixing and forming an acidic sludge that destroys the system.
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