Right Wheel Bearing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Right Wheel Bearing
Well it was going to be a morning job.
I had everything in place and decided to remove the axle to gain better access to the three TORX bolts holding the bearing assembly.
I had see the videos that show removing without, but only having a floor jack, I need all the advantage that I could get.
So no problem getting it out and clear access.
But no luck impact wrench, PB and Propane heat; the screws will not budge. The axle nut came off with a problem.
Grind the heads off or drill the stud? Take it to a shop?
Or other options
Note: I did not screw up the heads
I had everything in place and decided to remove the axle to gain better access to the three TORX bolts holding the bearing assembly.
I had see the videos that show removing without, but only having a floor jack, I need all the advantage that I could get.
So no problem getting it out and clear access.
But no luck impact wrench, PB and Propane heat; the screws will not budge. The axle nut came off with a problem.
Grind the heads off or drill the stud? Take it to a shop?
Or other options
Note: I did not screw up the heads
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,427
Likes: 604
From: Minneapolis Mn
Bolts
Being you have the whole thing off, my first choice would be to take it to a machine shop to get them out. Obviously replace the torx bolts before putting the new hub on.
If that's not an option, I'd take a drill and open the head of the bolt a little, slip in a short bolt and mig weld it to the end of the torx bolt. You should then be able to get a wrench on it and hopefully the heat of welding will help break it loose.
Good luck.
If that's not an option, I'd take a drill and open the head of the bolt a little, slip in a short bolt and mig weld it to the end of the torx bolt. You should then be able to get a wrench on it and hopefully the heat of welding will help break it loose.
Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
It's really up to you. How much time and energy do you have? This is what I would do. Heat the bolt head as hot as you can. Then let is cool. Use your impact gun again, going from reverse to forward and back. Are you using a 3/8" impact or a 1/2"? Do you have plenty of air? If you can get the whole assembly into a good position, you could try an impact driver. (the kind you hit with a hammer. A REAL hammer) I also like Kroil, it's a penetrating oil. It seems to work pretty well if you give it time. If those don't work, you will have to get nasty with it. Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,389
Likes: 2,741
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Thanks for the advice.
1/2 drive impact, but 3/8 line. I'll move to 1/2 line and see if it helps. Although the gun was strong enough with this set up to take care of the axle nut and the remaining bolts that held it on the car
I whacked the thread side of the bolt, but not the head side. I give that try today
Yes counter intuitively, I ran if forward and reverse on the car. Now that it is loose I give it another try. That worked on a froze pinch bolt on another project.
I know regarding heat..., but propane is all I have, not even Mapp gas.
So, if I do not achieve success today, I will take Rob31's advice and find a shop with a torch.
By the way, when I put it back together I was going to use some lithium grease on the rubber bumpers. Good idea or bad.
Thanks for all of the great ideas and quick responses.
1/2 drive impact, but 3/8 line. I'll move to 1/2 line and see if it helps. Although the gun was strong enough with this set up to take care of the axle nut and the remaining bolts that held it on the car
I whacked the thread side of the bolt, but not the head side. I give that try today
Yes counter intuitively, I ran if forward and reverse on the car. Now that it is loose I give it another try. That worked on a froze pinch bolt on another project.
I know regarding heat..., but propane is all I have, not even Mapp gas.
So, if I do not achieve success today, I will take Rob31's advice and find a shop with a torch.
By the way, when I put it back together I was going to use some lithium grease on the rubber bumpers. Good idea or bad.
Thanks for all of the great ideas and quick responses.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Since you have it out, use a mixture of 50% automatic trans fluid and acetone to soak the bolts to get them to release. This is much better than any commercial product. Apply generously and let it sit for an hour then use your impact or like I did as mentioned above a breaker bar and a four foot pipe extension. The first time I did it I twisted the torx I had. Ended up buying a torx for an impact and that did not twist.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
Use a penetrant like PB or others and Pull Harder. If you haven't damaged the torx heads, then you can still lean on them. On mine they were very tough to break loose. I had to use a long breaker bar to get them.
If you wind up damaging the torx heads, then you can take the next step to grind them off, or take it to a machine shop.
I would pull harder. What have you got to lose? If you damage the torx heads, you are already talking about grinding or machine shop. If pulling harder breaks it free you are ahead of the game.
Good luck.
If you wind up damaging the torx heads, then you can take the next step to grind them off, or take it to a machine shop.
I would pull harder. What have you got to lose? If you damage the torx heads, you are already talking about grinding or machine shop. If pulling harder breaks it free you are ahead of the game.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Whatever penetrating fluid you wind up using, let it sit for some time. I had both rear bearings replaced on my '87 and I soaked the large spindle bolt and the bolts with PB Blaster the day before the work was done.
The large nut and all of the bolts came out easily. But our shop has 150psi air, 1/2" hard lines and hoses, and the tech used an impact wrench with something like 600 ft-lb power.
The 1/2 ATF and 1/2 acetone is also a great penetrant to use. But only mix up small quantities as the acetone will evaporate fairly quickly.
The large nut and all of the bolts came out easily. But our shop has 150psi air, 1/2" hard lines and hoses, and the tech used an impact wrench with something like 600 ft-lb power.
The 1/2 ATF and 1/2 acetone is also a great penetrant to use. But only mix up small quantities as the acetone will evaporate fairly quickly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,227
Likes: 697
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Use a penetrant like PB or others and Pull Harder. If you haven't damaged the torx heads, then you can still lean on them. On mine they were very tough to break loose. I had to use a long breaker bar to get them.
If you wind up damaging the torx heads, then you can take the next step to grind them off, or take it to a machine shop.
I would pull harder. What have you got to lose? If you damage the torx heads, you are already talking about grinding or machine shop. If pulling harder breaks it free you are ahead of the game.
Good luck.
If you wind up damaging the torx heads, then you can take the next step to grind them off, or take it to a machine shop.
I would pull harder. What have you got to lose? If you damage the torx heads, you are already talking about grinding or machine shop. If pulling harder breaks it free you are ahead of the game.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Since I had it out...
Here's how I secured the knuckle
and you were right.
More butt, breaker bar this set up got all three
Head are clean and ready to re-use.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
Here's how I secured the knuckle
and you were right.
More butt, breaker bar this set up got all three
Head are clean and ready to re-use.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.