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NEW Rough Idle Issue

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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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Default NEW Rough Idle Issue

I'm not sure where to begin! 1987 Corvette.

Long story short I recently did a 9th injector delete and now everything is back together.

I have a misfire on the 1st bank that gets worse at 215 degrees. At that temp it feels like it's sputtering and surging trying to find a steady idle.

Below 215 degrees I can somewhat feel it but it's not terrible unless I floor it. It'll accelerate like normal until about 50MPH and 3200 RPM. The engine will rev up but won't kick into upshift so the car revs high but isn't accelerating. It does that for about a second and then engages. I NEVER had an issue like this before I did that delete. Now I'm not blaming the 9th injector missing to cause all this, it's just odd. I do have used ACDelco 7mm wires which could be the cause, but why now? Plugs are not fouled. I'm totally stumped as to why I'm having this issue. Electronic spark control module? Knock Sensor? Faulty TPS? I will be pulling codes hopefully sometime today.

Last edited by Stephenms; Sep 29, 2014 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephenms
It'll accelerate like normal until about 50MPH and 3200 RPM. The engine will rev up but won't kick into upshift so the car revs high but isn't accelerating. It does that for about a second and then engages.
That sounds like the TV cable needs adjustment.

Originally Posted by Stephenms
I have a misfire on the 1st bank that gets worse at 215 degrees.
1st bank? Of what? The injectors? How did you determine this?
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
That sounds like the TV cable needs adjustment.



1st bank? Of what? The injectors? How did you determine this?
The spark plug bank. Driver side exhaust has an unsteady flow like a miss. Plus the unsteady and somewhat sporadic idle and hesitation when accelerating. When it's warmer it gets worse. Under light throttle I can feel the engine skip a beat. I'm assuming it's wires because that's the only thing I changed besides the 9th injector delete. I did undo the throttle linkage but was careful with it, I'll inspect it.

Could it possibly be that I switched the EGR solenoid vacuum lines? I rearranged the two lines that run from the canister to the solenoid, then to the EGR. The idle got better in reverse and drive and throttle response at idle is much better. Have yet to do a road test but I will tonight on my way home. I know I have done that before and it did have a terrible idle like it was but it never had a misfire, I knew it felt familiar the way the car was vibrating and searching for idle rapidly. Certainly could have been a fix, will keep you guys updated!

Last edited by Stephenms; Sep 30, 2014 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 06:18 PM
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you're in florida....egr block off plate and a canister'ectomy will leave you with no vacuum lines to worry about...
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by playsdixie
you're in florida....egr block off plate and a canister'ectomy will leave you with no vacuum lines to worry about...
I've been looking into a delete but am coming up empty on google. I would rather not put my car into ANOTHER DIY project due to it being my daily driver, so hopefully that EGR solenoid vacuum line was the culprit of my misfire
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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The vacuum lines to the EGR solenoid DID NOT fix my misfire. It ran okay at start up but once it got up to temp, 170+ it started to have rough idle again and misfiring, lack of acceleration, slipping when trying to Upshift after I punch it. I had it tuned to 6 degrees which it liked before. I will be replacing the wires with a Delphi set. I can feel the misfire at normal driving speeds,45 and up. I'm really stumped as to why this is happening all of the sudden. Could it be that I need to reset codes?

Maybe the EGR switch itself?

Last edited by Stephenms; Sep 30, 2014 at 10:48 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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9th injector only comes on for cold starts AFAIK. Should not affect anything else.

Sounds like it is not working well in closed loop. Maybe MAF? I would think a scanner will help.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 01:15 AM
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Sounds like swapped spark plug wires. These engines will run amazingly well on 6 cylinders...
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Sounds like swapped spark plug wires. These engines will run amazingly well on 6 cylinders...
Would it explain why it only does it in closed loop?
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 07:00 AM
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I'll start from codes reading,any SES light comin'on? read codes and report down,this condition can't be ignored by sensors/ ECM,you must have codes stored,write down ,reset ECm unplugin' negative at battery,run the car again in various condition and read again codes to confirm new,old or no codes.

Alberto

Last edited by tunedport85inject; Oct 1, 2014 at 07:03 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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I thought it would be spark plug wires too but they check out just fine, everyone is in the proper place. And YES! They do run surprisingly well on lacking cylinders.

It still had a miss at start up. It seems to be random the more I notice it. I think something is making me run extremely lean, it's getting hotter than normal.

The SES usually goes on and off but that's for TPS low volt and MAF burn off relay. Never had a problem with those two. Now the light is always on so I'm gonna read the codes with a code scanner and live feed. I'm hoping this is just something simple and stupid
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 08:01 AM
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If the burn off relay is faulty,you don't have any wire cleaning cicle ,a dirty MAF wire doesn't read the air flow accurately.Do you still have the cat? may be your cat is clogged or startin' to...

Last edited by tunedport85inject; Oct 1, 2014 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
If the burn off relay is faulty,you don't have any wire cleaning cicle ,a dirty MAF wire doesn't read the air flow accurately.Do you still have the cat? may be your cat is clogged or startin' to...
I do still have both cats. They do rattle a bit but it's odd that it sat for a week and when I started it up it has a misfire. That's confusing to me.

The MAF was cleaned with MAF specific cleaner and a q-tip.

Last edited by Stephenms; Oct 1, 2014 at 08:22 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 08:30 AM
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Do you have any codes?put a clip over terminal A,B and report what ECM says
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephenms
I do still have both cats. They do rattle a bit but it's odd that it sat for a week and when I started it up it has a misfire. That's confusing to me.

The MAF was cleaned with MAF specific cleaner and a q-tip.
MAF needs to burn off each time. Not sure when you did it last.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephenms

The MAF was cleaned with MAF specific cleaner and a q-tip.
No way you hurt the thin wire,i'm not a fan of MAF cleaning,but if you have to do NEVER touch the wire just spray over
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 11:10 AM
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If a filament catches, who can say? I would never clean an MAF with a Q-tip. Gently spray it.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 11:48 AM
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I used a q-tip just to see where the dirt was, it was not dirty at all really.

I have not had time to put the scanner on there. Will let you guys know what I find.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 12:35 PM
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Got the codes!

33 MAF malfunction (I think this was stored because I did run the car without it but plugged it back in)

22 Open Throttle Position Sensor Circuit

43 Electronic Spark Timing Malfunction (knock sensor) I checked the wire that goes to the knock sensor and it about half an inch of open wire, could this be grounding off of something causing it to run like poo?

I also reconnected my EGR solenoid pigtail connector, it felt a little loose, now my idle is at 1000.

Last edited by Stephenms; Oct 1, 2014 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 01:36 PM
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code 43 is related to Electronic Spark Control
code 22 TPS signal voltage low (do you mess with minimum idle? set TPS to .54V per factory procedure)
code 33 means MAF sensor high,i hope this is not result of Maf cleaning

to ceck the knock sensor ,warm up the engine,put it at 1500 rpm,tap with a screw driver near the sensor and ceck for rpm drop meaning the knock is sending the signal and ESC shut off with a lower than 6 volt voltage at terminal b7.This code is only set in case the knock isn't functioning.Normally the ECMs simulates once per start a knock condition only to ceck the system.

reset codes and ceck again to confirm codes,then we can go deeper for each code.

Last edited by tunedport85inject; Oct 1, 2014 at 02:11 PM.
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