Even though I am not a big fan of the procedure, weather you use Water, ATF, or some $12.00 a bottle mystery cleaner. it all works and you cant even put a price on how much you spend on a cup of water. Maybe .0001 of a dollar.

and water doesn't fog out the neighborhood, and I don't think it would effect some of the component's and sensors in the car as much as other things and products.

 

J H is there anyway you can tell me exactly how you did this?
Did you have someone helping you? Where you alone? Did you start the motor and while it was running pull a vacuum hose a daggle a cup of water some where in the engine bay and set the vacuum hose in the cup all while the motor was at Idle?
Did you bring the motor rpm up? Where you aware that the motor should be buzzed up and while the engine is fed water you need to not let it die and it usually bogs down and requires more throttle to make sure it does not?

 

I disconnected a vacuum at the plenum and connected a small tube. I then let the tube "sip" water from the container. The engine was idling. I turned a second and the tube went into the water. The engine then made a rattling sound and stopped running. I then tried to restart it and it would not turn over. I removed the plugs and all were dry except for a drop or two on plugs 4,6 and 8. The engine still did not turn over immediately but soon did. Very little water came from the spark plug holes. Replaced the plugs, started the engine and the knocking sound was there.

 

Do the compression and leak down tests and post a video if you can. You can upload a video to YouTube and post the link to the video here. It's very simple to do.

 

That don't sound that bad. I mean you could of still bent a rod, maybe. Just maybe. Water does not compress. Nothing in this world can.
At an Idle with only a cup of water, through a vacuum line, I'm hoping for ya that it just died out. But and this is the kicker. When you say the motor wouldn't turn over. Do you mean you were cranking it with the starter but the motor wasn't turning? or it was spinning and cranking normal and it just did not start?
Because if it just didn't start, it could be alright.
Have you taken it out for a ride? or does it sound real bad and you haven't? I'm hoping for ya that it alright.
All the motors I've ever seen and have worked on were when the driver had driven through a flooded street and it was deep and the tail pipes were under water and the driver let off the throttle and on engine decel it sucked up large amounts of water into the engine and they all bent a few rods and valves and wouldn't run or even start
I've never seen one run with bent rods or damaged valves, but its possible

 

Trying to upload a video but having no success. My youtube account will not accept the upload from my cell phone for some reason. But, based on the sound that I am hearing, I think there has been some real damage done. The knocking sounds way too severe to drive the car. Even though there is not likely anymore damage to be done by driving it, I am going to leave things as they are so maybe I will have the option of rebuilding this engine. I am afraid driving it will do more damage and rebuilding will not be an option. The thing is knocking rather severly. If I can get the vidoe to upload< i will post soon.

 

You can also try Drop Box. It's an app that will allow you to store things on an online server. You can share public links to your files and this also includes videos. Maybe try that? It's free too.

 

This is a link to the video (I think ??????)

 

OMG.....

THATS bad....

you screwed the pooch dude, sorry.

 

Definitely sounds like it is bottom end...

 

That's definitely at minimum a connecting rod.

Ouch.

The semi good news is, if you were ever looking for an excuse to do an engine swap you have it now.
Honestly I wouldn't even bother with a rebuild when it's that bad. The price of a good solid engine is comparable to what it would cost you to rebuild.

 

At the least, pull the valve cover and have a look before you go all doom and gloom.

 

Never hurts to check

Funny there was a thread on doing this just a day or so ago and he gets beat up for doing it?
Using a spray bottle with warmish water is a little safer doesnt help ya now though. If you like the car upgrade it and make it even better than it was. Cars are money pits anyways

 

I pulled the right side valve cover and all was well. I might do the left side Monday just to make sure.

 

I don't know that doesn't sound solid enough to be a totally screwed motor, I still seem to think there is a lot of carbon rattling around the heads or a broken piston skirt. drain the oil and see if shrapnel comes out, and blow the cylinders out with compressed air.

 

Last poster who had a sound like that, turned out to be the flywheel hitting the tin cover. If it were my money, I'd investigate further.

Rod knock usually makes loud noise every other crank revolution....that noise is every crank revolution.


.

 

WOW !!!!! Interesting comment. I have thought about the flywheel. I will investigate that thoroughly tomorrow. Don't know how the procedure I was doing could lead to an issue in that area, but it is something truly worth investigating. I, too, am having a hard time believing that this is a rod situation.

 

I to was going to say the same thing because that is the sound that covers make, but I wrote it off because that usually happens after a bottom out or someone changing a starter or trans. not stalling out. it will be easy enough to check

This is a super long shot Tom400 has a point the noise is a constant, not the beat of a rod. so while steaming the motor could he have over stressed a crank bearing cap? with a journal unsupported it would have many forces attacking it from all sides.

 

Same for the other person. HERE IS THAT THREAD

In post #18, he gives a little back ground and his noise came after an auto-x run. Like yours, shouldn't have had anything to do w/the issue.

Another check; harmonic damper may have slid back and is scraping the timing cover.

 

I'd agree this noise is every revolution, and is not affected by engine load. Hydrolock can't cause a bent pushrod, and a bent pushrod would cause a totally different valvetrain noise. I'm going to guess a bent con rod, which will cause the piston to ride a little lower in the cylinder, and allow the piston skirt to touch the crankshaft counterweights at BDC. The engine will run just fine with a mildly bent con rod. Look for aluminum in your motor oil.

Sorry to make this prediction!