Okay so I took the intermediate shaft off of my '96 to take care of the "clicking" at the rag joint. That was pretty easy; just the two bolts were loose. I tightened them up and applied some locktite.

Putting back into car is where I had a problem which resulted in having to replace the SIR clock spring.

So now I have the replacement clock spring in place and started to re-assemble the steering column internals that I took out in order to fish the clock spring wire down the column.

I tried to put the lock plate on but the steering shaft seems to have pulled-out such that the spot where the split ring that holds the lock plate in place is now to far above the lock plate...by a good bit.

I had unbolted the intermediate shaft from the steering column shaft as I thought I was going to have to remove the column from the car in order to get the SIR clock spring wire down the column.

When I did not have to, I put the intermediate shaft back onto the steering column shaft, BUT I had to compress the steering column shaft by a small amount in order to get the intermediate shaft on.

I have read to not compress the steering column shaft, but I had no choice. Also the top of steering column shaft, where the steering wheel goes, I can move the shaft in all directions except in or out.

I tried to turn the steering column shaft by hand where the intermediate shaft connects and it is rough and only turns a small amount in each direction.

SO WHAT HAVE I DONE?
More importantly....how do I fix this?

 

It seems to me that if you DO NOT have to compress the lock plate to insert the wire ring you've done two things likely. 1. The steering column shaft isn't inserted correctly into the intermediate shaft (it is not bottomed into the intermediate joint) 2. The problem with the turning is the result of the lower bearing coming apart or something related to the lower bearing is misplaced or broken.

Remove the steering column! It will be much easier to reassemble on a bench. You should not have had to do anything with the lower shaft in the column (flex tilt joint to intermediate shaft).

Did you actually collapse the steering column lower shaft by shearing the two nylon pins that establish the correct length? I have a shaft I can measure but I'll need a snapshot of yours to explain where to do the measurements. I have enough parts I believe to correct anything that you've maybe ruined.

 

The lock plate still needs to be compressed in order to get the locking pin into the locking plate. However with the lock plate compressed, the split wire ring groove is at least 1/4" above the lock plate instead of right up against it like it should be.

Right now I am fighting trying to get the column out of the car. I have all the bolts/nuts removed, but just unable to get the column base to come complely out of the insulation.

Also seems that the throttle pedal bracket needs to come out, but have not been able to remove the throttle pedal either.....0 for 2 here.

If the two nylon pins sheared-off...it was not by me compressing the shaft. I only moved it about 1/4" if that. The shaft compresses easily and then comes back out as it is spring loaded.

 

You didn't compress anything and the steering shaft is NOT spring loaded. There's a spring in the lower bearing but that isn't part of the shaft. With the column on the bench I believe you should have no issues reassembling it correctly unless you've actually broken anything. The lock plate isn't "pinned", it uses a wire ring and I'm guessing that's what you meant. The SIR coil is retained by a conventional snap-ring but it has an unusual thickness specification. Don't loose or ruin it.

I don't know that this will help but it's essentially the way a '9 column is assembled:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...rimLevel=14589

You could have a piece of the upper bearing race either missing or not installed correctly, the spring under the cancelling cam maybe incorrectly installed OR ???

The upper bearing race #14 gives some people fits.

 

The shaft is not spring loaded....hmmmm....something for sure is not right!!!

Cause I can push the lower shaft in and it comes back out on its own.

Using the exploded view numbering in the service manual (P3F5B-2, Figure 1), I have parts 1 - 8 out, and parts 13 & 14 are loose. And #13 which has slots on the side does not fit inside #14; it rides on top of it.

Yep the lock plate using a split ring (#5) that fits into a groove on the upper shaft (#56). Normally the lock plate(#6) is compressed against spring #8 and held in place with #5...but not now....this is where there is a gap and spring #8 is now not compressed at all with the lock plate installed and held with #5....and also the steering lock pin will not engage the lock plate....to great a distance between them.

I am just not sure as to where to start???....would pictures be helpful?....what areas?

Sure appreciate the help.

 

UPDATE: Think I got it!
Have the lock plate and clock spring in the correct place. However I do not have the column back in yet. What I determined is I must not have had the intermediate shaft to steerting column shaft fully mated....#1 reason from WVZR-1 above.

Since I had the column out I removed the side cover and tapped the left side pivot back into the housing; it was out just a bit. Did not see where the housing was overly rounded or anything, but the steering wheel did rock a bit, so hopefully that is taken care of.

I centered the clock spring and even checked that I could get 1.5 turns in both directions without it breaking....again.

So time to put the column back into the car....if my sore back will let me. Getting that acclerator pedal out was a chore!!...and such an easy position to work in....NOT!

Oh well.....back to the FUN!

Many THANKS to WVZR-1 for your help!!!