Steering column bearing
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Giving you this information for only the image. Those bearings have only ever been serviced in the package that this link displays. There may be some after-market vendors with but I doubt it. Very seldom do technicians use the entire package so if you know a GM tech somewhere they would be in his box. The package from GM is 7844651 and will be on all dealers shelves for sure.
http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=7844651
Maybe eBay if you're looking to save money! Use the GM # to search. I didn't.
If you actually need the seat #13 that used to be available with a spring kit that isn't available any more so you'll need a used part there. Every Saginaw tilt column through the mid-late 90's used the same parts. I probably have the bearings in a complete housing but I'd have to look and see if I have the seat #13. I could. Where are you located?
http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=7844651
Maybe eBay if you're looking to save money! Use the GM # to search. I didn't.
If you actually need the seat #13 that used to be available with a spring kit that isn't available any more so you'll need a used part there. Every Saginaw tilt column through the mid-late 90's used the same parts. I probably have the bearings in a complete housing but I'd have to look and see if I have the seat #13. I could. Where are you located?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 5, 2014 at 02:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Thanks for the information.
The associated parts are still good, just the upper bearing let go.
I am in Dayton, Ohio.
and some information I have found mentions that the upper seat, race inner (13) above is pressed on the shaft. Mine is not... just slides up and down.
Does this make sense?
The associated parts are still good, just the upper bearing let go.
I am in Dayton, Ohio.
and some information I have found mentions that the upper seat, race inner (13) above is pressed on the shaft. Mine is not... just slides up and down.
Does this make sense?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,413
Likes: 2,745
Thanks for the information.
The associated parts are still good, just the upper bearing let go.
I am in Dayton, Ohio.
and some information I have found mentions that the upper seat, race inner (13) above is pressed on the shaft. Mine is not... just slides up and down.
Does this make sense?
The associated parts are still good, just the upper bearing let go.
I am in Dayton, Ohio.
and some information I have found mentions that the upper seat, race inner (13) above is pressed on the shaft. Mine is not... just slides up and down.
Does this make sense?
The FSM should cover the install but will of course mention the use of a special tool. It would be good if you could. If you know a GM technician I believe the correct J-tool is a J-38369 and a J-8092 driver. I've used a large socket mounted "backwards" onto a 1/2" extension so you can use the large flat face of the socket.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 6, 2014 at 10:23 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Great information and thanks
and some more
5696210 was the part number for the bearing now Obsolete.
26001827 is now the part number for the bearing $57.00 ea.
However 7844651 is the number for the kit with 2 bearings and the other items at $67.00.
I opted for the kit and will change all part with the new stuff.
Hope to have it back together this weekend.
and some more
5696210 was the part number for the bearing now Obsolete.
26001827 is now the part number for the bearing $57.00 ea.
However 7844651 is the number for the kit with 2 bearings and the other items at $67.00.
I opted for the kit and will change all part with the new stuff.
Hope to have it back together this weekend.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
Using a 1/8 punch and the notches in the housing, I removed the old retainers
I could not used the flat side of the socket as the plastic carrier was taller that the steel retainer. So I just tapped it home using a punch and stepped around the ring to keep it square.
I retrieved 13 ***** from the damaged bearing and I think the 14th is further down the column. So I am going to proceed further down before putting it back together.
I could not used the flat side of the socket as the plastic carrier was taller that the steel retainer. So I just tapped it home using a punch and stepped around the ring to keep it square.
I retrieved 13 ***** from the damaged bearing and I think the 14th is further down the column. So I am going to proceed further down before putting it back together.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
I put the clip on upside down and the will not allow the insulator to seat properly.
The open end of the "horseshoe" goes to the two brass contacts
I used a 5/16-18 set screw to lock the telescope shaft.
Otherwise the lock plate compression tool only pulls on the shaft instead of compressing the spring.
All back together.
Only two people take apart a watch.
A watchmaker
and
An Idiot
The open end of the "horseshoe" goes to the two brass contacts
I used a 5/16-18 set screw to lock the telescope shaft.
Otherwise the lock plate compression tool only pulls on the shaft instead of compressing the spring.
All back together.
Only two people take apart a watch.
A watchmaker
and
An Idiot
