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i have a little over $7000.00 in my engine with all the little tid bits to finish it but i did away with the fuel injection. those super rams are expensive & seem to be a real pita to tune. good luck! :cheers:
I have about 6k in mine, another 1,500 for fuel injection, intake, etc, when it's all done and the dust settles, probably $9,000 engine, but it's not only a 520 hp/500 ft lps of torque @ 4500 rpm's, it's a real showy monster as well ! ! :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
I'm with those guys! I'm at about $9000 and still spending. I want to switch mine over to the FelPro engine management $2000 and have some custom exhaust work done $XXX.XX
glock, you only have 4g's in your engine? did you steal parts for it? :confused:
:p: nope. I paid a guy to help me do it... $750 labor total. I spent the rest on parts and machine work. :crazy: :crazy: And then i got to have the guy redo my tranny with shift kit and other upgrades right after cuz i blew the tranny, lol.
btw, no point in a billet-steel crank for me. I don't use nitrous or a blower... cast is fine for the crank. The pistons are another story ;) SRP forged & silicone injected :yesnod: Rod's are also god stuff :D
I hear ya Glock. I was all for a "REGULAR" bottom end. I just heard it a time or two..and at the time, I had the dough..so I went for the good bottom end. LOL, It is overkill. This motor is completely happy at 5800...HOWEVER...if I did opt for the hyper pistons...they might be ashtrays by now. I had a bad detonation problem(My 11.84-117 clinged and pinged from the minute I left the line through the traps, and NO WAY in hell was I going 250 mile trip there and home for nothing!) but luckily everything checked out ok when it was at LPE Last summer for the correction. I think I'd do it again though...good stuff eases your mind.
:eek: :eek: :eek: hyper pistons with a billet-steel crank! :crazy:
No...It'd have been a cast crank. The other bottom was a nodular iron crank, pink rods and regular pistons. They we're in a friends IROC and it took a severe beating. That engine is in His other Z28 now with a Victor Junior and 750 (Sorry Eric, that combo is such a finicky POS,and it's been tampered with numerous times to make it as set it and forget it as FI, well tuned :U ). So far the engine is as durable as it was in the other car.
:eek: :eek: :eek: hyper pistons with a billet-steel crank! :crazy: No...It'd have been a cast crank. The other bottom was a nodular iron crank, pink rods and regular pistons. They we're in a friends IROC and it took a severe beating. That engine is in His other Z28 now with a Victor Junior and 750 (Sorry Eric, that combo is such a finicky POS,and it's been tampered with numerous times to make it as set it and forget it as FI, well tuned :U ). So far the engine is as durable as it was in the other car.
I met up with eric aka yoslambo1@cs.com. I met his very cool wife also! very nice personality. Now, that ride of His is nothing short of awesome!! Paint is like glass, the engine had many people with their jaws dropped, and it's sound...that is all it's own! It's also nice to have someone else with the same color at a show! He out did Himself on the interior. I LOVE all the carbon fiber..and it's so clean you'd think it had 0 miles on it. Well done dude! This is NOT the car I'd seen at Candlewood! VERY VERY impressive. My hat is off to you...and you should be proud of it. The long work was worth the wait!
Now, here are a few pics from our weekly vette show.
You can probably put together a motor for about 5000 to 7000 depending upon the whether you go with a forged crank or not. You really don't need a forged crankshaft. A good set of rods would be idea. I am partial to forged pistons. Use a stock pressure oil pump. Get 30# injectors.
Be sure your machine shop is very competent. I have had some engine problems because of machine shop screw ups and ignorance on my part for not know what to look for. Get the block main bearing and cam bearing bore alignments checked. Find a shop that knows how to put a real smooth hone finish on the cylinders. Have the block deck surface checked. Get the engine balanced.
AFR makes some good heads but I suggest you get bare castings and have the machine shop put them together. I got an assembled set from AFR and had valve float and exhaust valves that did not have hardened tips. I understand from the my machinest that ALL the aftermarket heads are coming in a less than optimum condition these days.
Tuning isn't all that tough on the the 94 LT1. It has a MAF big enough to handle 575 hp so its easier to tune than the older MAF TPI motors. You will need a reprogram. The ecm is flash progammable so it can be programmed by a laptop using a special cable. I have some good bin files for a 383 LT4 hot cam engine.
You'll have to decide if you want to go to the vented opti, using the $$$$ heavy duty timing chain or electric driven water pump and non LT1 timing chain, and LT4 balancer and hub. I went to an LT4 balancer because of the longer stroke and higher rpm capability.
I think the guys pretty much reflect my outlay in there figures except I converted to TPI at the same time. Add another $2500 for that bit of change. I didn't compromise anything and tweaking is still in progress but I wouldn't go as far as to say it's a PITA. Theres lots of support here on the board.