C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Could I have actually fixed it?!?!

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Old Jul 31, 2002 | 10:53 PM
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Default Could I have actually fixed it?!?!

If you haven't seen my previous thread I was having trouble with the motor dying and not throwing any codes. I had replaced the fuel pump, filter, and also the spark control module.

After a closer examination, which I'm beating myself over the head for not doing in the first place, I found a vacuum hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator unplugged. Could this have been the reason it would die? After reconnecting it I haven't had any problems...yet. It also seemed to run a little smoother.

If I fixed this thing I'm going to be so ecstatic. It's been driving me nuts for the past week. Well I'm off to see if it stays running.

Later,
Matt
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 12:21 AM
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Default Re: Could I have actually fixed it?!?! (Golden80)

that won't make it die. In fact, you would notice almost no difference...maybe a slightly higher idle speed if anything.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 12:33 AM
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There was a guy at the track this weekend who's car was running a full second slower than usual. Closer inspection found his vacuum line also disconnected from the FPR.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 12:34 AM
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n fact, you would notice almost no difference...
The car will run rich across the entire powerband and be really sluggish.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 01:45 AM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

Nope. Didn't fix the problem. I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow. I'm sick of screwing around with it.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 01:47 AM
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Default Re: (Golden80)

Nope. Didn't fix the problem. I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow. I'm sick of screwing around with it.
welcome to the C4
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 01:49 AM
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Default Re: (vader86)

Maybe I could convince the dealer to give me back my 80. (J/K)

It may have been 3 seconds slower but at least I knew what I was doing with it.


[Modified by Golden80, 10:50 PM 7/31/2002]
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 02:03 AM
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Default Re: (Golden80)

Have you cleaned the TB and IAC and reset the IAC min idle and the TPS min/max voltages?

To get up to speed go to Amazon and get a copla books on Chevy TPI. They give basic theory, diagnostics and mods info for about $17 each.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 11:21 AM
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Default Re: (65Z01)

Everything's clean and all the voltages are normal.
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 01:22 AM
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Default Re: (Golden80)

Well that settles it. This cars going to the mechanic in the morning. I'm too tired of messing with all these wires and computer stuff.

I've put on a new fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, ignition module, throttle body hose, checked all the connections I could, and pulled most of my hair out to no avail. I never thought I'd have to take a car to a mechanic. But this one is beyond me. I think I'm going to :cry now.


[Modified by Golden80, 10:23 PM 8/1/2002]
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 12:48 PM
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Default Re: (Golden80)

Had you checked the pick-up coil?
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 08:13 PM
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Default Re: (Ray Quayle)

Had you checked the pick-up coil?
Sorry if this is a dumb question but is that the same as the coil in the distributor? I replaced that already and still had no luck.
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Old Aug 4, 2002 | 05:10 AM
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Default Re: (Golden80)

When you say "is that the same as the coil in the distributor?" if you mean the ignition coil in the distributor cap, then no. The pick-up coil is mounted below the rotor, magnet and pole piece. This coil is wound around a plastic doughnut with the distributor shaft running through the hole. It connects to the ignition module and acts as a trigger replacing the points of old. Probably due to heat, the insulation on the wires from the pick-up coil to the ignition module will get hard. Then vibration causes the wires to crack. This results in intermittant signaling to the ignition module and feels like a miss or engine cut out. Sometimes only at certain RPMs. As the situation gets worse, so does the miss. Eventually the intermittant becomes a hard fault. Another failure mode is that the pick-up coil becomes heat sensitive. When hot the pick-up coil shorts, after a cooling period, it will work again. The pick-up coil is cheap. The distributor does have to be removed to do the replacement though. No more than an hour for an experienced mechanic. Not to say that this is your problem, but since you had gone to such lengths to avoid taking it to a mechanic, this is one item that could have been replaced that is a possibility.
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