This is concerning the prequel to my first head/intake teardown.

I did a compression test today, twice. (Spark plug removal is cake on these older C4s!) I wasn't really able to do it "by the book", because I didn't have any way to put some oil in the cylinders... I also had to wait until the engine cooled down enough to stick my hands in there even with gloves. I noticed the compression numbers seemed to drop as the engine/oil cooled. When cranking the engine, the first full compression stroke typically went up to 120-130psi, 160 on the next cycle, then up to around 180psi by the third cycle. I did them in the order of 1,3,5,7,2,4,6,8. This is using some crappy 20-50 oil I picked up temporarily until I can get this coolant leak resolved.

First Compression Test:

1: 185 2: 191
3: 182 4: 181
5: 180 6: 182
7: 177 8: 178

2nd try, at cooler temperature:

1: 182 2: 174
3: 175 4: 170
5: 170 6: 169
7: 172 8: 167

The first test looks great to me, and the numbers sort of fell off the charts as it got colder outside. Looks like my problem is the intake seals afterall, and not the headgasket. I will most likely pull the heads anyways. It's hard to resist when they're right there. Are new head bolts necessary? Ooh boy, can't wait. What would be worthwhile concerning ports, portmatching, polish, valves, guides, seats? I can't feasibly spend more than $400-500. How would this money be best spent? Does anyone have any machine shop recommendations in the SanFernando, Bakersfield, or Santa Maria area?

 

Those numbers don't look like you need to pull the heads.

If you pull them, get a Standard Abrasives delux porting kit and an electric tool from Sears. Summit has a nice tape on porting your heads. You basically just need to take out casting flashings and blend the bowl area into the valve seats and a little more work around the guides.

Then get a 3-angle valve job on larger seats and a set of 2.02/2.60 valves. Some new valve springs (a little stronger than stock), new locks and seals should round out the heads work. Have the runout checked to see if you need new valve guides pressed in (don't bother having them knerled). But I think this will come in above $400-$500, even doing your own porting. The porting equipment will cost close to $200.

You can wait till $$ are available to dress up the valve train with some nice RRs, etc.

 

i've seen plenty of head gaskets that didn't leak until under high load.