My 96 LTi with 98,600 miles started getting hard to start several weeks ago. It used to fire right up. Now it turns over a bit, and sometimes does not start on the first attempt.

I pulled a spark plug, and looked as if it could have been the original! The small part that sticks up, was nearly worn away completely. I changed them. I believe that it still has the original plug wires on it. They are numbered, and they look as though they have never been removed. And it could well have the original opti spark?????

So if they are original or simply bad, would that cause the car to act this way? Thanks much - kip

 

Start simple first and do a tune up, Plugs and wires. Then see what is up. Given the lack of maintenance it could be any number of sensors but it is obvious you need plugs/wires after 90 some thousand miles, so might as well go there first.

 

Is there a reason not to just buy the cap and rotar for the octi? I found a you tube video on changing them... Also, with a traditional distributor the time is set by turning it one way or the other. How's the timing set with the octi? I can only assume that the key way which aligns it with the crank also sets the timing???? No fine tuning or fine setting????

Also plan on changing the fuel filter. How big of a pain is this going to be? Thanks - kip

 

Timing is controlled by the engine computer. Changes to the engine tune - timing, fuel, etc. are made through the computer.

 

And yes the opti only goes on one way so the computer will change the timing rather than the position of the distributor.

 

Yes get those original plugs and wires out of there. And in my opinion do not put the same plugs back in...the platium puck comes off of those plugs fairly quickly. I used NGK Iridium plugs....very nice....but there are others to choose from.

Getting to the plugs wires is not an easy task. The bigger your hands, the more difficult it is. Routing of the plug wires on the driver's side is just a royal PITA to do. Good thing that this does not need to be done very often.

The water pump will have to be removed to access the OptiSpark unit, so some coolant draining is required. You also get to decide if the "while I am here" should I replace the water pump? The harmonic balancer will also need to be removed to remove the OptiSpark unit...but not the hub. No puller is needed to remove the balancer. Good time to check it's condition...be sure to mark it before removing so it can go back on in the same orientation. To take the OptiSpark unit apart, get a torx screw the same size as the reverse torx screws, put two nuts on this screw, jammed them together and then you can use this "tool" to remove the OptiSpark reverse torx screws....or you can buy a reverse torx socket. I went the cheap route as taking the OptiSpark unit apart is not done often enough to justify the cost.

As far as the fuel filter...do a search on the forum and you will find the tips to make the change easier. Does require getting the tool for releasing the special type of connection the fuel line uses. These are the ones you see on the passenger side of the engine, one dark gray, one light gray.


Good luck....if first time doing this type of task...plan on a good 5 hours at least.

 

with LannyL81.

I would concentrate on a fuel issue. But you still need to change wires and perhaps the cap. Get a fuel pressure gauge and see what is happening to your fuel pressure with the key turned on with out the engine running.

 

Dont dare walk the path of the blind man and blindly replace an oem gen 2 optispark(with mitsubishi optical sensor) with a substandard replacement.

This assumes that you still have the oem optispark

At most, replace cap and rotor and check that the vent system is working.

 

I also agree with John...check the fuel pressure....as it would not matter if there was 100,000 volt spark....gotta have fuel there as well.

I 1000% agree with dizwiz24 about the OptiSpark unit....DO NOT get a cheap one...it will just fail quickly!