1985 4+3 overdive drips
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
1985 4+3 overdive drips
hello all, this is my 1st post. i joined a couple moths ago.
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
Pro
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 522
Likes: 3
From: Rolling Meadows IL
hello all, this is my 1st post. i joined a couple moths ago.
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If you get the bolts too tight, it's possible that the pan rails may be bent. But you should check the area to make sure fluid is not coming from the output shaft seal or some other area.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 277
Likes: 3
hello all, this is my 1st post. i joined a couple moths ago.
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
in july, i purchased a bone stock, all original 1985 4+3 with 28,000 miles on it. beautiful vehicle, perfect. you would be arrogant to ask for a vehicle in better condition. i flew to were it was and drove it home. from seattle back to dallas.
naturally, this was and still is a garage kept vehicle.
couple weeks ago i saw a couple red fluid drips under the car. so i lifted vehicle and checked the overdrive pan bolts. they were not very tight, at all. so i snugged them up. then the leaking really began. so satur-day, i lifted the vehicle and changed the overdrive fluid, essentially to replace the pan gasket. i had already read on this site what to do and how to do it and followed those directions. when i was done i went on a 30 minute test drive (using OD some and not using OD some). satur-day night, no leaks/no drips - sun-day morning no leaks/no drips. sun-day night not so lucky - drip, drip. oh, i am so annoyed.
o.k. so that's where i am. right now. mon-day. i have done nothing further.
what is my next step? thank y'all in advance for your time and wisdom.
steve
Last edited by frank j. moran; Nov 11, 2014 at 04:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
no i am an not sure about the rear seal. i need to get the vehicle in the air so i can stand under it and really inspect it. this crawling under it on ramps and jack stand is for the birds.
thanks for the reply.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
If you get the bolts too tight, it's possible that the pan rails may be bent. But you should check the area to make sure fluid is not coming from the output shaft seal or some other area.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
thank you for your reply.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
If time is not of the essence, my best experience is use brake clean on the mating surfaces, use RTV and let it dry over night, then refill. Another point, make sure the pan is flat, especially around the mounting holes, if you over tighten the pan with a gasket, often the pan gets distorted. Simply tap the bulged areas flat on a hard surface.
thanks for the reply.
anyway, i was trying to find out a "flow-chart" type order of possible eliminations of the problem. i figured the pan gasket would be the easiest solution so that's why i started with that.
steve
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,426
Likes: 229
From: Pennsylvania
If you get the bolts too tight, it's possible that the pan rails may be bent. But you should check the area to make sure fluid is not coming from the output shaft seal or some other area.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Completely. Use "The Right Stuff" sealant each time. You'll never have it drip again.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
If you get the bolts too tight, it's possible that the pan rails may be bent. But you should check the area to make sure fluid is not coming from the output shaft seal or some other area.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Remove the pan and completely clean any old gasket material from the pan rail and from the mounting flange of the OD unit. Use a straight edge to check the pan rails for being flat. Straighten the rails using a flat bar and a small hammer. Check around the bolt holes to make sure there are no cracks or raised/depressed areas. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.
Once all that is done, apply a 1/8" bead of a good black RTV sealant on the pan rails making sure to circle the bolt holes. Install the pan while the RTV is still wet. "The Right Stuff" is a good RTV sealant as is the MoPar RTV sealant (get it from any Dodge/Chrysler dealership parts counter). Make sure to tighten the bolts in a pattern; tighten the bolts to 6-8 ft-lbs.
I have never seen any reason to wait for the RTV stuff to dry before fluids are added. At our shop, the techs will install things oil pans or valve covers using RTV, tighten them down and start an engine within 10-15 minutes. No leaks.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 277
Likes: 3
Well, assuming it is transmission fluid leaking from the OD unit. You have the two cooler lines and their mounting plate (valve) on the passenger side, two overdrive sol. connectors on the drivers side (wire passes through case "O" rings), TV cable on pass. side "O" ring. Tail shaft seal, the input shaft seal, this one you cannot see with out removing the unit. but you should be able to confirm if it is leaking. Spray it down with brake clean and just do a visual check.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
Well, assuming it is transmission fluid leaking from the OD unit. You have the two cooler lines and their mounting plate (valve) on the passenger side, two overdrive sol. connectors on the drivers side (wire passes through case "O" rings), TV cable on pass. side "O" ring. Tail shaft seal, the input shaft seal, this one you cannot see with out removing the unit. but you should be able to confirm if it is leaking. Spray it down with brake clean and just do a visual check.
turns out the tranny/od case cracked and was seeping fluid when i drove it. the case was common to find the transmission shop said
thanks
matt