C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

performance chip help

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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 09:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
In the context of 'Hypertech' chips et al, Id hardly call base timing changes "Red neck". It gets results, which is more than you can say for the chip. That it costs $0.00 makes you look smarter than a red nek.
Reason I think it is a hack job is that you are not optimizing the curve and just adding timing everywhere. To me it is like say that because the pants are 2 inches too long in the legs, I get a couple sizes down.
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Agreed, and to expound I'll say this. The 85 uses a computer controlled spark map with about 250 different cells based on load and rpm. Stock base timing is 6 degrees, and any change is a global change. Example, under load at WOT above 3000 rpm you're at 30 plus 6 for 36 total. Change base to 10 and you're at 40 with an imaginary gain.
Yes and my question is what if it doesn't want to see it at 4000 whereas it is good at 2000? Won't the KS be yanking out timing to prevent the knock it is seeing? I'd rather get the suit fitted for me as opposed to just upping a size because the legs are too short
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by paintballoma
when it get put onto a dyno and tuned what is it that they adjust? sorry for all the questions but performance tuning is one area i have little experience
I would say it depends on what you have done. In my case, you can't simply adjust the timing and be good. I have different injectors, cam, intake, headers, heads so they have to tweak more than timing.I doubt if they left the command idle or whatever it is called the same, it would work as well.
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Old Dec 17, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Reason I think it is a hack job is that you are not optimizing the curve and just adding timing everywhere. To me it is like say that because the pants are 2 inches too long in the legs, I get a couple sizes down.
Think about it w/in the context of this thread, and the OP's immediate options; A chip that has consistently been proven to be worthless or "feed it what it wants" that has repeatedly been proven to be effective. Not everyone goes straight from 0-datalogin/tuning.
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Old Dec 17, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Think about it w/in the context of this thread, and the OP's immediate options; A chip that has consistently been proven to be worthless or "feed it what it wants" that has repeatedly been proven to be effective. Not everyone goes straight from 0-datalogin/tuning.
I suppose you are right in that context. I tend to steer away from those fixes since I have seen many idiots with the "some is good, more is better" mentality. 2 have blown 5.0L engines in their Mustangs. Usually it is "It is running so good, I thought just a couple of degrees more......". Another idiot tried that with Nitrous on his 90+ SHO Tarus. Ran like a raped ape. At least till he found his engine all over the road. My personal history with cheap fixes hasn't been good either. Cheap TFS heads cost me an LPE shortblock which they wouldn't warranty for obvious reasons. Entire driver side valves were loose and one piston kissed the valve when the spring broke from wobbling. Most everytime I tried a cheap fix, it has come back to bite me and bite me. Not usually an "if" but "when" question.

Last edited by aklim; Dec 17, 2014 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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That is very true. The cheap fixes/methods often provide only short term benefits. Well said.
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Old Dec 17, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
That is very true. The cheap fixes/methods often provide only short term benefits. Well said.
Usually, I end up paying LESS to fix the problem the right way than to band aid the thing and later have to fix it right. Now if you are selling the car off, I can see a band aid.
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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So I listened and I decided not to do the chip but to go another direction. I got a K&N air filter, I am replacing my broke EGR valve and since taking off the plenum is a nightmare due to the BBK throttle bode I figured install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I hear the stock fuel pressure regulators go bad often. I also got the intake temperature relocation kit for two reasons. The first reason the stock connector is brittle and snapped the connection tab and because everyone says its in a bad location and this will help out a lot. please let me know what you think.

PS---the plenum is usually easy to take off but when you install a BBK throttle body it makes it hard due to a so so design.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 01:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by paintballoma
I figured install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I hear the stock fuel pressure regulators go bad often.

I also got the intake temperature relocation kit for two reasons. The first reason the stock connector is brittle and snapped the connection tab and because everyone says its in a bad location and this will help out a lot. please let me know what you think.

PS---the plenum is usually easy to take off but when you install a BBK throttle body it makes it hard due to a so so design.
Haven't had that happen yet where the diaphragm ruptures but that is where a FPR can go bad. I suppose another point is the spring gets weak. That I haven't seen a case of so hard to be certain but not sure there is much more. My adjustable is set to 44 psi since that is what stock pressure is off and the fuel pressure calculations for the injector is often based off.

You go to NAPA and the "HELP" rack has a bunch of connectors. Who is "everyone" and why do they say it? The only reason I can think of that says it is in a bad location is that they are trying to get air temp measured before it gets warm so they can fool the ECM into thinking it is colder so there is more enrichment. Being that I am against trying trickery on the ECM, I'd have to say it is a waste of money.

Not sure. I have used ACCEL and now Holley for a TB. Never used BBK so not sure why it would be such a PITA.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Haven't had that happen yet where the diaphragm ruptures but that is where a FPR can go bad. I suppose another point is the spring gets weak. That I haven't seen a case of so hard to be certain but not sure there is much more. My adjustable is set to 44 psi since that is what stock pressure is off and the fuel pressure calculations for the injector is often based off.

You go to NAPA and the "HELP" rack has a bunch of connectors. Who is "everyone" and why do they say it? The only reason I can think of that says it is in a bad location is that they are trying to get air temp measured before it gets warm so they can fool the ECM into thinking it is colder so there is more enrichment. Being that I am against trying trickery on the ECM, I'd have to say it is a waste of money.

Not sure. I have used ACCEL and now Holley for a TB. Never used BBK so not sure why it would be such a PITA.
Also, as Cliff has pointed out that fuel calculations are based on the CTS, and the ECM only uses the IAT when dealing with EGR. My concern about replacing the regulator diaphragm is that pressure be recorded prior if it is still good to be used as a base to work from. GM used different spring pressures throughout the years that is being replaced with a one size fits all that can throw off the BLM's.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Also, as Cliff has pointed out that fuel calculations are based on the CTS, and the ECM only uses the IAT when dealing with EGR. My concern about replacing the regulator diaphragm is that pressure be recorded prior if it is still good to be used as a base to work from. GM used different spring pressures throughout the years that is being replaced with a one size fits all that can throw off the BLM's.
I think when I disconnected it the last time, my car ran different. Not sure if it is good different or bad different. I know I don't have EGR

Without the IAT readings, how would my MAP sensor and TPS calculate the volume of air?

Last edited by aklim; Dec 21, 2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:23 PM
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I've had plenty of experience with tuned ports, if you have stock cam and heads, a chip does nothing vs. Just bumping up the initial advance to say 10 to 13 degrees!

I've dyno tested custom proms and made passes over and over at the dragstrip, took asm 3 separate attempts to finally best my 13' initial advance, by one tenth and 1 mph, so definitely not worth the money imo.

Dave
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Schotz
I've had plenty of experience with tuned ports, if you have stock cam and heads, a chip does nothing vs. Just bumping up the initial advance to say 10 to 13 degrees!

I've dyno tested custom proms and made passes over and over at the dragstrip, took asm 3 separate attempts to finally best my 13' initial advance, by one tenth and 1 mph, so definitely not worth the money imo.

Dave
But if you take a stock chip and soak it in blinker fluid?
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:50 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by aklim
But if you take a stock chip and soak it in blinker fluid?
Lol!! Ya never know!

I did leave out, there are Benefits, if turning off egr/emissions/vats, etc
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Schotz
Lol!! Ya never know!

I did leave out, there are Benefits, if turning off egr/emissions/vats, etc
Maybe YOU don't know squat about my blinker fluid. Instant 20HP gain, thank you very much.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Maybe YOU don't know squat about my blinker fluid. Instant 20HP gain, thank you very much.
Sweet, send me some... I think mine is getting low. LOL
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Schotz
Sweet, send me some... I think mine is getting low. LOL
$99.99 per gallon. Forum special.
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 03:20 PM
  #38  
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Hey Dave, long time.

In my opinion our cars are now getting old enough that if still stock the best gains will come from simple and thorough maintenance. Early on I bought a hypertech chip for my 93. As i got deeper into tuning i pulled the bin from that chip and compared it to my stock BLDL.bin.

The actual chip has space for 256,000 bytes, or is it bits, of information, while the actual bin file is 4096 bytes/bits in length. The file comparator showed 8 of 4096 bytes/bits were different between the 2.

The biggest change was the lowering of the fan on and fan off temps to take advantage of the 160 thermostat. That took 4 of the 8 changes. I forget the other 4.

So spending the cost of a chip on a tuneup will give you far more bang for the buck.
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pkincy

So spending the cost of a chip on a tuneup will give you far more bang for the buck.
Absolutely agree!

Peace,
Dave
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I think when I disconnected it the last time, my car ran different. Not sure if it is good different or bad different. I know I don't have EGR

Without the IAT readings, how would my MAP sensor and TPS calculate the volume of air?
Mr. ****** is correct. If you have an '85 TPI, you do not have a MAP sensor, you have a MAF sensor. That's how you get the fueling calculations. The cars that do use a MAP sensor, are 90-91, and they do use the MAT or IAT for fueling calculations.
HTH.
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