High Idle
Basically you're going to need to measure some voltages at the sensors,etc. It's a lot to type out.
Basically you're going to need to measure some voltages at the sensors,etc. It's a lot to type out.
First thing to do is to take off your throttle body. Remove the plate at the top, remove the IAC and remove the IAC housing. Make sure you have new gaskets for it. Clean the entire thing with brake cleaner. All passages and the butterflies. A little WD-40 at the joints won't hurt. Clean the pintle tip only. DO NOT PUSH THE IAC in or pull it out or you might be buying a new one.
Before I go anywhere, I want to know what the IAC readings are. If they are at 0, I would like to see whether you have an air leak. When mine read 0, I had to chase the leak till I found it was on a gasket. I scan the values when it is warm and in closed loop with everything off.
Hoses on the manifold are removed one by one and the barb closed off, engine revved and see what happens. If no change on any of the hoses. close off the IAC hole in the TB and see if the car dies. If it doesn't, you might have a broken gasket. Ask me how I know.
If everything checks out, I would proceed to reset the IAC. Turn the adjustment screw in if the IAC readings are high, rev the engine and see what it does. You want about 20 counts. When that is set, check TPS and reset to 0.54V
BTW, I am assuming your timing is on and you have good spark with no leaks in the wires.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
First thing to do is to take off your throttle body. Remove the plate at the top, remove the IAC and remove the IAC housing. Make sure you have new gaskets for it. Clean the entire thing with brake cleaner. All passages and the butterflies. A little WD-40 at the joints won't hurt. Clean the pintle tip only. DO NOT PUSH THE IAC in or pull it out or you might be buying a new one.
Before I go anywhere, I want to know what the IAC readings are. If they are at 0, I would like to see whether you have an air leak. When mine read 0, I had to chase the leak till I found it was on a gasket. I scan the values when it is warm and in closed loop with everything off.
Hoses on the manifold are removed one by one and the barb closed off, engine revved and see what happens. If no change on any of the hoses. close off the IAC hole in the TB and see if the car dies. If it doesn't, you might have a broken gasket. Ask me how I know.
If everything checks out, I would proceed to reset the IAC. Turn the adjustment screw in if the IAC readings are high, rev the engine and see what it does. You want about 20 counts. When that is set, check TPS and reset to 0.54V
BTW, I am assuming your timing is on and you have good spark with no leaks in the wires.
I also check the vacuum, which may point to a leak, in the cruise or brake diaphragms or any VAC lines. The ECM can cover up errors (trying to compensate) or miss basic problems (no codes) that even a non-ECM engine might have; fuel delivery and vacuum leaks included.
IF there is unmetered air entering the engine, the ECM will add fuel, attempting to achieve proper fuel/air, causing high idle. I suspect, however, that you have a binding cable, as Cliff suggested.
A scanner is rather essential with these cars, but is not the sole tool. The last one I bought is a nice Innova; virtually new and 1/2 price on local CL!
Last edited by whalepirot; Dec 26, 2014 at 03:24 PM.












