I need to remove my transmission. I don't have access to a lift and just wonder if some of you may have done this and what methods you used to get the car high enough to get the tranny out of the tunnel. Car is a '91 L-98 coupe, tranny is a ZF6. Just looking for a solid way without getting hurt or damaging the car. The reason I'm doing this is to RR the engine. Putting in a new zero decked 4 bolt block with ZZ-4 cam, ETEC-170 heads, Edelbrock VORTEC style base, AZ Speed & Marine tubes, ported plenum, roller rockers, MSD Ignition, etc,etc. Really anxious to see how it's going to work.

 

What I did was get the car up in the air and solidly supported at all 4 corners and then I used my floor jack to lower the trans.

 

How high did you lift it? What kind of jack? I have some really high stands that I believe will be OK but my jacks don't lift very high I also have a tranny jack. It's just the lifting part I'm having a problem with.

 

when I jacked my car up, I had to go to putting blocks between the car and the jack pad (floor jack). Put blocks under the wheels, then do it all over again. Thru some 3/4 inch plywood under the car to support EVERYTHING (including me as all this was outside in the backyard) and to help the tranny jack stay mobile. It isn't the best way to do it, but was the only way for me as the job took a couple of months. Why? I was home only a few days each month..over the road semi driver.

 

I pulled my ZF with the car on a Kwiklift, which raises the car approximately 20 inches higher than it sits on the ground. I was unable to move the gearbox completely out from under the car, because the Kwiklift, and the cross-bridge support I was using to support the rear of the engine, blocked egress from under the car while the trans was on the jack. Large jackstands should allow you to get the car this high, but you probably don't need to get it quite this high in order to get the transmission out from under the car if the car is on jackstands. Without the runners of a Kwiklift getting in the way, you should be able to move the trans out from under the car. Further, it sounds as though all you really need is to be able to do is to drop the trans and slide it rearward enough for your engine swap. I used this transmission jack, from Harbor Freight, which worked quite well:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ack-60234.html

The ZF gearbox is one heavy beast. A good transmission jack is a huge asset, especially when it comes time to properly align the gearbox with the clutch hub and pilot bearing.

Live well,

SJW

 

Thanks SJW. I checked out the Kwiklift, looks like a cool piece of equipment. I have the Harbor Freight transmission jack. I had talked to a restoration outfit about doing this for me and the price of the Kwiklift is much less than the figure I got from them. I'll probably just buy a Kwiklift and do it myself. Thanks!

 

Your method is something I had considered but was concerned about the stability of the jacks doing it that way. The Kwiklift mentioned below looks like a pretty handy and safe piece of equipment and I do a lot of my own car work so I'm seriously looking at that. Thanks for your input.

 

The Kwiklift is definitely more stable, and much quicker and easier to load, than a set of four jackstands. The stability and safety of the Kwiklift is one of its chief merits. Things get ugly when cars fall. Especially when they fall on people.

Live well,

SJW

 

I know a guy who had that happen to him. He was changing the oil on his pickup truck and it rolled off the lift and the bumper caught his ankle and pinned it. His wife wasn't home but he just barely was able to reach his cell phone which was on the garage floor to call 911. His ankle was in a cast for a while, but no permanent damage was done.

The moral of this story is to put the car in gear and/or set the parking brake... Chocking the wheels might also be a good idea.

 

Someday, I may get a KwikLift. However, I've pulled the ZF transmission a few times off of jack stands and a floor jack WITHOUT the trans jack (as suggested once to me by Bill Boudreau (who should know, I recon).

I use TWO floor jacks and alternate from left to right side - back and forth - to get the desired height*.

Note: I use jack stands large enough so that they are not extended to the end of their reach, which have proportionately wide bases: important to my sense of safety.

Years ago I asked Bill Boudreau (ZF.Doc) about using a trans jack, and he said he prefers a plain floor jack with a 6" cup positioned under the center of gravity. I've done it several times now and I totally agree. (I've found aligning the trans input shaft with the clutch spline to be greatly facilitated by the freedom of movement afforded by this method, as opposed to the trans jack. (Your mileage may vary. Try it without, and see if you don't agree.)

Removing and reinstalling the (ZF) I find is greatly facilitated by using a few jigs:

1. Drilling and tapping the wedge key (under the shift **** cap) and placing a fender washer over the top of the **** so a screw and a nut can be run down on top of the washer makes a fine wedge key puller!
   
2. A pair of "guide rails" (bolts with the heads cut off to a length about 3" long) installed temporarily in the upper transmission bolt holes (in the bell housing) to hang the transmission on and guide it into the pressure plate.
   
3. A quality clutch alignment tool; especially if you're working alone. (I got one at Harbor Freight, but the BEST one is a spare trans input shaft is hard to beat. IMO, and especially avoid those cheap plastic POS tools some auto parts stores sell...trust me!) But, in spite of whatever alignment tool used, or when all else fails, have an assistant press down on the clutch pedal while you slide the transmission into the clutch assembly. Voila!
   
4. Now, getting the C-beam reattached is where you may find the best reason to install Bill Boudreau's C-beam plates, besides traction stability, is reinstalling and aligning the C-beam! But, before you tighten the beam in place, pay attention to the position of the trans tail shaft, relative to the trans tunnel. This will help reduce vibration and U-joint wear, especially at higher speeds/torque situations.
   
5. The space between the top of the C-beam (at the tail end of the trans) and the trans tunnel should be 45 mm, and the space between the side of the C-beam and the tunnel should be 28 mm.
   
   
   
   
   Note: It might be necessary to back the motor mount nuts off enough to allow the trans tail shaft to be positioned left-right. Position the tail shaft with the "gauges" and then torque the C-beam bolts, followed by the motor mount nuts.
   
   
   
   Note: I made myself a couple of "gauge slugs" from a piece of steel rod, cut and ground to length. Or, Bill (again) will provide you a pair, if you want.

These jigs etc., come by way of graduate work at the School of Hard Knocks at the cost of plenty of cussing and skinned knuckles. Excluding other work, i.e., dropping and reinstalling the transmission itself, is about a 2-3 hour job (max) with practice! (but then I'm OLD.) .

 

In order to get mine high enough to get under to change the ZF fluid, made some blocks. Two 4x4 pieces cut to about 15 inches sandwiched between two 2x12 piece cut similar length. With all four wheels blocked it gets the car up high enough to slide under no problem. About $50 in wood and any Home Depot will cut all the pieces you need. For extra insurance I also have four jack stands at each corner as well.


Edit: just read your first post again and see you are pulling the engine anyway. Might save you some aspirin if you support the trans securely and pull the engine instead. That's how I did mine on removal and install.

 

I'm a car nut and do most of our work anyway. We have 4 vehicles ('91 Corvette, Mustang GT(love this guy between 4000 and 6000 RPM), Impala, Ranger V-6) and it seems I'm always doing something to one or the other of them. I've been to ZF Doc's place and used the method mentioned above to lift the car but most floor jacks won't get the bottom of the tires 20 inches off the ground with some help. Anyway, you guys have been a great help... the forum is a fantastic place. Thanks. Even buying the Kwik- Lift I'll save a nice hunk of change over what the restoration place wanted to do this job.

 

Two jacks and 4 jack stands. Make sure you don't pinch the lines running down each side of the car. I was able to pull my transmission with the car 17 inches in the air (measured from the bottom of the trim that is under the door to the ground). Although 19 inches was much more roomy (when I pulled it the first time). You can drop it down using a jack and a piece of wood, and then it will slide out the back of the car.

The ladder (The piece of metal that bolts to the tailhousing of your transmission and then down to the rear diff) will slide out easily, but the trick is that you have to have the transmission about a half inch higher then its naturaul position. So of course your going to lower the tranny down slightly to disconnect your TV cable, cooler lines and to get the bellhousing bolts out easily, but then after you have removed your driveshaft, and the ladder bolts, raise the transmission back up, and the ladder will slide out easily.

Same thing when you go to put it back in, get your bellhousing bolts and everything connected, then lift the tranny up high to get the ladder in place. Also you can put the driveshaft back in, after the ladder is connected and bolted in.

Applies for the 700r4/4L60, might be differrent for manual transmission, but I wouldn't know.

Although as mentioned by another member, if you are pulling the engine, you can take your hood off and pull the engine and transmission at the same time.

 

Back when I was 14 or so, Dad was in the driveway working under our familys 1961 Fairlane . He had the thing jacked up by the bumper jack, was doing something under the car, when it fell. Lucky I was home and heard him calling me for help. Since that time, I have NEVER had any part of my body under a car without something under there that will prevent my escape/injury. Even a spare tire under the oilpan or under a brake drum, anything. I urge all to heed this warning, do NOT go under there without something thicker than you to prevent you from escaping or breathing. Oh, I am 65 now.

 

Excellent advice. It only takes one slip. We have only 1 life.

 

i think this is really really solid advice.

these forums make it easy for us to plug away on our own cars. we go to the store and buy what we need, incl jacks and stands. frick im a total bubba, i've bought more tools since buying my c4 than in my whole previous life. i am a geologist and know sweet nothing about mechanics. many of us who are wrenching away figuring it out as we go along and don't really have any safety training whatsoever.

Personally, i have two jackstands on each side, then the front tires on old wheels. i did have the rear tires on old wheels but i needed to rotate the driveshaft so i switched to double jack stands. its a pita under the car because i have less room to do yoga poses without banging into the jack stands...but i have the peace of mind that if one jackstand on the leftside gives way, there is a second one on that side as backup. same for right hand side. i think the safest thing is to have 4 old wheels under each tire, with the parking brake on.

anyway, not to highjack this thread but just thought id make the comment along with ghoasts. sorry op!

 

Placed the order Tuesday evening, Wednesday morning Danny was on the phone arranging shipping. Great guy and so far great company to deal with. Really looking forward to getting this thing and getting my project rolling again. I'll try to keep posting pics and threads on progress.

 

Good choice. I think you will like a Kwik-lift a lot.

I got one a few years ago and it is great for a lot of jobs. Things like changing the trans fluid, exhaust work, even cleaning underneath, etc are so much easier.

I left mine up for a couple years and learned to park on an incline daily. However, I made some of the lay flat ramps and park on it now in the down position. Even in the down position it raises the car about 6 inches and that is high enough for a lot of tasks such as oil changes etc.

Good luck with your project.

 

I agree with the kwik-lift vote

www.kwik-lift.com

 

This thing is heavy duty but can be handled by one guy (with some assistance from the wife). We got it unloaded and it is now lying waiting to be assembled. Will have some pics soon... with a C4 parked on it. Thanks to those who offered suggestions. Just a tip, I have a Ranger pickup and could have probably managed to get it home on the ranger but in the end decided to rent a full size GM Sierra from UHAUL. That made things really easy, it fits inside the bed (with the gate down) and fits between the wheel wells (would not fit between the wells on the Ranger). I'm just a stickler for safety, don't want to get hurt or hurt anyone else. Oh, the powder coat looks great and the packaging is done well to prevent the coating from getting damaged.