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Can't find a specific answer, just ordered some 3.75 gears, speedo gears, etc. and it's raining all week, plus I'm working. I can't go out and get under it soon (but I have been under it a lot).
Can the diff housing be removed by removing the driveshaft, support beam to trans, axles, all the bolts connecting it to the batwing?
The FSM seems to say a lot of the suspension has to be removed also. Is that true?
Anyone have a how to link?
Or can anyone verify that a lot of suspension has to come off or not?
Thanks.
Interested in this myself. Just bought a 3.07 diff to swap for my 2.59. I've gone thru the steps in the FSM and it doesn't look fun. Also shows a funky looking spring compressor is needed.
I just did this on my '87. You can leave the C beam, just unbolt it from the diff (and maybe weld the nuts to a plate for next time). Best to take both half shafts out to give you room, but you can probably get away with just the diff sides. Also the struts, tie rod assy, and the lower shock mounts need to go so you can move the knuckle around. It's a good time to upgrade the bushings if you haven't.
When you put it back in, get the right diff mount lined up first then wiggle the C beam and left side into place at the same time. Took me about 90 mins to get out and about an hour to get back in by myself.
Interested in this myself. Just bought a 3.07 diff to swap for my 2.59. I've gone thru the steps in the FSM and it doesn't look fun. Also shows a funky looking spring compressor is needed.
put a jack under the wheel hub and compress the spring upward only a slight amount....undo the shock absorber, now lower the jack. The spring will continue to unload until there is no compression. No spring compressor needed.
I just did this too. I dropped the entire rear assy and thought that was pretty easy; 8 bolts per side, plus the two c-beam rear bolts.
You could remove the axle shafts, beam bolts, diff cover bolts and drop it, but getting it back in and well sealed would be a PITA.
I can see where dropping the entire rear might be a bit easier but I'm doing this by myself in the driveway so my next question is can you put the entire thing back in one piece with a floor jack?
I can see where dropping the entire rear might be a bit easier but I'm doing this by myself in the driveway so my next question is can you put the entire thing back in one piece with a floor jack?
Yep. That is what I did. I also did it myself, jack stands and a floor jack. The entire rear assy is pretty light; probably 150-170 lbs. Not like you'd lower it by hand, but it is very easy to balance on the floor jack as you lower it, then once I rolled it out from under the car, I was able to grab the bat wing with both hands from behind, and carry the whole assy around.
Putting it back in was the reverse of removing it; I set the diff on the jack pad so that the whole assy was well balanced, then rolled it under the car and jacked it up into place. In my case, I removed the C-beam entirely so I wasn't trying to align the c-beam and the batwing mounts at the same or close to the same time. But, I'm sure that you could angle the c-beam/trans/engine down, connect the c-beam while it's on the jack but well below the bat wing mounts, then raise it straight up into the bat wing mounts.
Well I'll just have to see how it goes.
Tracking says all the parts should be here tomorrow.
I work during the day and I'm on call this weekend.
The city around here will give me a warning or fine if I have an "inoperable" vehicle in the driveway, from past experience thats just up on jackstands even on a car with new paint, wheels, tires, lights.
The city around here will give me a warning or fine if I have an "inoperable" vehicle in the driveway, from past experience thats just up on jackstands even on a car with new paint, wheels, tires, lights.
Pull the rear, then lower the car and stick the wheels and tires into the fender wells
I've had my rear out so many times I could do it blind folded in less than a hour.
Remove exhaust,
Support trans and remove C-beam and driveshaft,
Remove spring and tie rod assy
Undo camber rods off diff,
Remove half shafts,
Support diff and batwing and remove the two bolts to lower.
Done..
Drain plug...I might just do that.
Anyone know the fluid capacity? I have two 4oz bottles of friction modifier. The FSM doesn't say the total fill of gear oil.
It would be nice to get it close before I put it back in.
AND I have a complete diff off ebay in my hands right now, with good spider gears $69, what a deal. Found it last night, picked it up this morning.
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Rear diff housing removal
