Here is everything that is done to the car: http://www.corvetteforum.net/c5/noworries/hussy.shtml

Here are the problems:

1. Its slow. I raced my buddy who has a 1985 Coupe that ran a 13.7 and he beat me by a tenth. At first I blamed it on factory heads, but he has fewer mods(he has Cam and chip) than me, and factory iron heads. My car feels like it accelerates better at 1/2 throttle than full throttle. Which components would cause that?

2. The 1-2 WOT shift happens at about 4,400 rpms. The governor is stock. The 2-3 WOT shift happens at 3,100 rpms :eek: I don't know where the 3-4 WOT shift happens because I haven't taken the car that fast. It actually seems like the converter is locked throught 2-3, because it has a point where the rpm is 2600, then it climbs to 3,100. The converter has a 2800 stall.

3. Erratic Idle about 1/4 the time. I'm pretty sure this is the IAC valve. The car was too hot, and I'm too tired to take it off and clean it tonight.

4. I was throwing a code 42, Electronic Spark Control. I took all the wires off looking for problems, and plugged them all back in, and it was fixed. Nothing changed. I'm wondering if the problem is still there, but without the code.

Any help with any of these is greatly appreciated.


[Modified by NoWorries, 8:54 PM 8/9/2002]

 

If I remember right Firebird is at about 1,100' elevation and in Pheonix heat this time of year that likely wasn't a bad pass.

Of course your low shift points aren't doing anything to help your ET; time to get a B&M governor weight/spring kit.

Take a look at my dyno curve and now the HP at 5,200rpm is 20hp higher. So when I had my tranny rebuilt and a 2,000rpm TC and a shift kit installed I had the shift points raised from the stock 4,800rpm to over 5,000rpm. Now the 1-2 shift is 5,200rpm (about 200rpm too low) while the 2-3 shift is 5,800rpm (about 400rpm too high). Anyway this tranny work netted me a 0.3sec reduction in my ET.

You might also try a 160 deg stat and fan sw, definitely not too low for Chandler area.

Try cut-back spark plugs too for some increase.

Since you have an upgraded cam and some heads work you might want to try the siamesed base that I'm now experimenting with. Only a 1" deep (by 1" hight) cut between adjacent base runners gave me that 20hp gain at high rpm. I noticed a little drop in low end torque before my 2,000rpm TC; with your 2,800rpm TC that should be no problem.

You might also do some tuning with your AFPR for optimum trap speed.

I'm sure you'll see much better times on a Fri eve in Dec when the temp drops into the 40-50 deg range.

 

The only help I can come up with is to readjust the TV cable :seeya

 

Hey 65ZO1

Our race was just out on a secluded road that had a passing zone, so it was 3 lanes, we weren't actually at a race track. We're at 6,400 ft, at 100 degree temps, so our times were probably closer to 15.5 seconds, we weren't counting, it was just a heads up race, the first person to put substantial lead on the other, but the point is, he still beat me.

I just got done installing an oil cooler, and a new fan, so I was at nominal temps, 165* oil, 182* coolant. I accidentally left the fan on, I don't know how much hp that pulls, probably 2 hp, its only pulling 1/10 of the alternators capacity. The motor is still REALLY tight, I'm probably losing 20-30 hp right there, but I still should be considerably faster than my buddy.

I've got my intake siamesed about 2 inches deep on every runner. I pulled my spark plugs about 400 miles ago, and they looked perfect. I didn't shorten them, but they are rounded.

I think my slowness is based almost entirely on my transmission and some sensor problem. I've had my governor out once, when the tranny guys installed something wrong and the trans self destructed. It was easy getting it out, but a pain in the neck to get it back in. Do you have any tricks/techniques to getting that cover back on? My aftermarket exhaust really gets in the way in that department.

I just noticed today that my injectors have begun clicking. But they seem to only do it when cold, which wasn't during that race. My air/fuel ratio remained consistently rich while under WOT. According to the table on your website, my car is stoich at idle at 54 psi with 24lb/hour injectors, so I should be making over 300 hp, which is what my desktop dyno said, and what other people are making with similar mods.

I noticed something today. I tried to spin my tires leaving work, I went full throttle. The car coughed, then took off, the tires didn't spin. Then I got to the intersection to get on the highway. I had a tiny opening, so I kind of got on it, but didn't go full throttle, probably just over half. The car didn't cough, and the back end tried to pass me. I printed out your TPS instructions, and I'm going to do that tomorrow. The last time I set it, over a year ago, it was at .68 volts, but I've had the motor out since then, but haven't adjusted it again.

Thanks for the help, tomorrows project is IAC and TPS. I think I'm going to find a malfunctioning TPS, at least I hope so.

 

My shift points were raised at the tranny shop after the rebuild.

I have the governor and kit but haven't pulled it yet to fine tune it. Sounds like I'll have some fun with that project too.

Good luck with getting it sorted out.