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While I try to figure out the engine work and the car is at the mechanics, I was thinking I'll start work on something I'm going to change, the rear gears.
It is an automatic with a 2800 stall converter, I'm not sure of the stock gears, but I don't want to do a drastic/problematic jump (not sure 3.54 or 3.73). Can I get a good ratio recommendations and a place to buy them? I'd like to order them tonight.
While I try to figure out the engine work and the car is at the mechanics, I was thinking I'll start work on something I'm going to change, the rear gears.
It is an automatic with a 2800 stall converter, I'm not sure of the stock gears, but I don't want to do a drastic/problematic jump (not sure 3.54 or 3.73). Can I get a good ratio recommendations and a place to buy them? I'd like to order them tonight.
TIA
You need to first determine what you have. I'd check the RPO list in the console if it's still there BUT I'd do a rotate of the tire/wheel once and count the pinion rotations to confirm. You could be spending your money "foolishly".
you need to know your starting series 1st. As above mark your Drive shaft \ Diff and tire with chalk, white out, put the car in "N" helper spins the wheel constant & smooth count the DS turns. narrow your results Example 2 full turns just missed 2.5 = apprx 2.45
We also need to know what your mods are and what your goals are for the car. Do you still have a TPI style intake? Are you looking for a stop light warrior, 1/4 mile improvement, road course, AutoX, etc.? All these things will effect recommendations for rear gears.
We also need to know what your mods are and what your goals are for the car. Do you still have a TPI style intake? Are you looking for a stop light warrior, 1/4 mile improvement, road course, AutoX, etc.? All these things will effect recommendations for rear gears.
I need to look at the codes when I get home.
I'd like to build a streetable/stop light warrior/cruiser
If you still have stock gears in your car , they should be either 2:59 or 3:07 gears..These were the choices for the autos....I believe 3:45 is the lowest most guys go with the automatics...WW
Which intake and what cam are you choosing to use? That affects the gear choice.
Not sure, that is why I'm asking advice (engine) in another thread. So far, I'm going to do the intake, cam and headers.
Now that that is confirmed, what size/brand/place to buy is recommended? I could really use direction here. I emailed OBX headers, no reply yet(which I find shocking).
Not sure, that is why I'm asking advice (engine) in another thread. So far, I'm going to do the intake, cam and headers.
Now that that is confirmed, what size/brand/place to buy is recommended? I could really use direction here. I emailed OBX headers, no reply yet(which I find shocking).
BTW vader, love the website its very informative
3:45 range is very ideal. But like one of my TPI builds years ago, I had 3:45's with a CC 306 and mild moded 355 Auto with 2800 stall full Man valve body
it was a burnout king at the track. Would not hook up 125' or so out.
pretty useless!!!!
are you keeping TPI?
what Cam? Hot cam?
these will need to be answered due to power band range.
OBX never responds I have been trying about 6 months. Not one reply from them????
3:45 range is very ideal. But like one of my TPI builds years ago, I had 3:45's with a CC 306 and mild moded 355 Auto with 2800 stall full Man valve body
it was a burnout king at the track. Would not hook up 125' or so out.
pretty useless!!!!
are you keeping TPI?
what Cam? Hot cam?
these will need to be answered due to power band range.
OBX never responds I have been trying about 6 months. Not one reply from them????
TPI-plans are to change it...to what I haven't figured it out
Cam - same as the TPI, nothing too nuts
OBX is going to lose a customer as I go with the TPiS set
It appears that you are going to mod your car, to what degree we aren't sure. If your looking at changing the rear gears I would strongly suggest changing the complete rear with a DANA 44. if your going to increase Hp and performance.
Its almost impossible to find replacement spiders for the DANA 36 these days, if you should happen to break one your gear change is for not.
The DANA 44 swoop is much easier then some people lead you to believe, the only bad part is that if we keep recommending the upgrade, there wont be any left...
Hawk196,
The DANA 44 swoop is much easier then some people lead you to believe, the only bad part is that if we keep recommending the upgrade, there wont be any left...
There’s a good write-up in the Tech Tips with pictures on swapping a 36 to 44. I did it on my own with no problems with the help of my transmission jack but a floor jack will work just as well. Go to the sticky The Official DIY, Tech Tips Then to Links to Old Tips, C4 Related Tech Tips and down to Dana 36 => Dana 44. You can still find 44's on eBay, Craig's List and most Corvette junkyards but there a little pricey but well worth it. I put 3:45's in my 89 auto, no regrets here.
TPI-plans are to change it...to what I haven't figured it out
Cam - same as the TPI, nothing too nuts
OBX is going to lose a customer as I go with the TPiS set
If you don't know what induction you're going to use (or anything else) the last you need to do is talk to a header manufacturer. They can't give you a recommendation based on what modifications you've decided on in this thread.
There’s a good write-up in the Tech Tips with pictures on swapping a 36 to 44. I put 3:45's in my 89 auto, no regrets here.
Right on!!! I swooped my DANA 36 3.07 to a DANA 44 3.45 last summer. Big change in response and knock on wood I hope it holds up at the dragstrip..... so far so good!
The only issue I had was putting synthatic oil in it the first time, the clutches chattered terriblely. Put plain old GO 85W140 with GM additive and life is good no more chatter.