starter shims
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From: Cave Creek arizona
starter shims
Working on my 1990 base convertible with L98 I noticed that the starter bolts were not tight. They bottomed out. Previous owner had the starter replaced by a shop with evidently a first grader as the head mechanic. Thought that maybe they just put in the wrong bolts but no they did not put the shims between the starter and the block. Is there an easy way to know how many shims are needed or is it just trial and error. Been 40 years since I did any starter work. How will I know if I have it shimmed correctly other than it will start the car...
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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Working on my 1990 base convertible with L98 I noticed that the starter bolts were not tight. They bottomed out. Previous owner had the starter replaced by a shop with evidently a first grader as the head mechanic. Thought that maybe they just put in the wrong bolts but no they did not put the shims between the starter and the block. Is there an easy way to know how many shims are needed or is it just trial and error. Been 40 years since I did any starter work. How will I know if I have it shimmed correctly other than it will start the car...
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
A PowerMaster can be shimmed both directions and you could use this tutorial, you could use the information and just apply the information to "maybe" the starter that's on the car presently OR just maybe the brand of starter on the car might have a similar tutorial. If it's just a "NO NAME" replica of some sort it might be all a starter construction problem and you might really need to somewhat creative to accomplish a fit.
You might have been a little quick to be so critical of the original installer.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Feb 14, 2015 at 06:34 PM.
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From: Cave Creek arizona
WVZR-1 thank you for the quick response and the video. According to the original work order the starter was a Lester 17091 which does cross to my engine. The starter did work with the bolts bottomed out just hanging there and not holding the starter tight up to the block. I added some washers on the head side of the bolt thinking the bolts were wrong. Now the starter will not engage the flywheel when the starter is tight to the engine block. That's why I'm thinking I need the shims.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,373
Likes: 2,734
WVZR-1 thank you for the quick response and the video. According to the original work order the starter was a Lester 17091 which does cross to my engine. The starter did work with the bolts bottomed out just hanging there and not holding the starter tight up to the block. I added some washers on the head side of the bolt thinking the bolts were wrong. Now the starter will not engage the flywheel when the starter is tight to the engine block. That's why I'm thinking I need the shims.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Feb 14, 2015 at 06:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Cave Creek arizona
Yes on the knurled by the threads though they are kind of rubbed out I'm guessing due to the starter not being tight and the rattling of the starter on the bolt. Dial indicator reads 378 / 379.
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From: Cave Creek arizona
Put some shims in and the starter now works. Done for the night but need to make certain tomorrow that I am getting proper engagement with the teeth on the drive and flywheel. Not done but closer. Thanks again WVZR-1.
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www.zfdoc.com
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I just realized your location. If you've any C4 questions at all this guy is "right next door":
www.zfdoc.com
www.zfdoc.com
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Thread Starter
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From: Cave Creek arizona
Team Owner
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"383vett" mentioned you should be good to go and if it sounds good that's certainly the generally accepted "end of the story". It seems you've got the patience so confirming the clearance is just your time. How long ago was this starter originally installed? It seems you've likely got documentation. I'd maybe take a very close look at the condition of the teeth on the flywheel. Maybe confirming or improving the mesh drive to flywheel is in your best interest and not just assuming it's done.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Cave Creek arizona
Your procedure was indeed correct way to approach the repair, the washers "under-head" bound the starter and confirmed that shims should likely fix the situation. The knurled section on the bolt confirmed that the bolts were certainly intended for use to mount the starter.
"383vett" mentioned you should be good to go and if it sounds good that's certainly the generally accepted "end of the story". It seems you've got the patience so confirming the clearance is just your time. How long ago was this starter originally installed? It seems you've likely got documentation. I'd maybe take a very close look at the condition of the teeth on the flywheel. Maybe confirming or improving the mesh drive to flywheel is in your best interest and not just assuming it's done.
"383vett" mentioned you should be good to go and if it sounds good that's certainly the generally accepted "end of the story". It seems you've got the patience so confirming the clearance is just your time. How long ago was this starter originally installed? It seems you've likely got documentation. I'd maybe take a very close look at the condition of the teeth on the flywheel. Maybe confirming or improving the mesh drive to flywheel is in your best interest and not just assuming it's done.
kind of ironic but the starter repair receipt is the only one I received with the car. It was done October 2014 about 1500 miles ago. Before I quit last night I put fingernail polish on the teeth to check gear mesh. Will do that later today. Starter has to come back out to put the flywheel cover on anyway. Teeth are all good surprisingly.