1989 Vette Brakes
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 71
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
1989 Vette Brakes
Hi guys.
What would you recommend trying first? My brakes on my '89 seem to be a little too hard to press for adequate performance. The pads are new all the way around, and fluid is topped off. The vacuum hose going to booster is in good condition, no cracks and is not swollen. When I owned my last car, 1989 IROC, it had the same engine and trany as the Vette. The brake system did not have ABS, but were pretty sensitive as far as how much pressure was needed on the pedal. I feel like the Vette's should be at least equal, if not better than the IROC.
What part of the system should I troubleshoot first? This is my first Vette, so I am still feeling it out as far how she operates.
Any thanks as always, will be greatly appreciated!
Pat
What would you recommend trying first? My brakes on my '89 seem to be a little too hard to press for adequate performance. The pads are new all the way around, and fluid is topped off. The vacuum hose going to booster is in good condition, no cracks and is not swollen. When I owned my last car, 1989 IROC, it had the same engine and trany as the Vette. The brake system did not have ABS, but were pretty sensitive as far as how much pressure was needed on the pedal. I feel like the Vette's should be at least equal, if not better than the IROC.
What part of the system should I troubleshoot first? This is my first Vette, so I am still feeling it out as far how she operates.
Any thanks as always, will be greatly appreciated!
Pat
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hi guys.
What would you recommend trying first? My brakes on my '89 seem to be a little too hard to press for adequate performance. The pads are new all the way around, and fluid is topped off. The vacuum hose going to booster is in good condition, no cracks and is not swollen. When I owned my last car, 1989 IROC, it had the same engine and trany as the Vette. The brake system did not have ABS, but were pretty sensitive as far as how much pressure was needed on the pedal. I feel like the Vette's should be at least equal, if not better than the IROC.
What part of the system should I troubleshoot first? This is my first Vette, so I am still feeling it out as far how she operates.
Any thanks as always, will be greatly appreciated!
Pat
What would you recommend trying first? My brakes on my '89 seem to be a little too hard to press for adequate performance. The pads are new all the way around, and fluid is topped off. The vacuum hose going to booster is in good condition, no cracks and is not swollen. When I owned my last car, 1989 IROC, it had the same engine and trany as the Vette. The brake system did not have ABS, but were pretty sensitive as far as how much pressure was needed on the pedal. I feel like the Vette's should be at least equal, if not better than the IROC.
What part of the system should I troubleshoot first? This is my first Vette, so I am still feeling it out as far how she operates.
Any thanks as always, will be greatly appreciated!
Pat
Friction is what does the braking, standard car brake pads are kind to rotors but need added pedal pressure to stop the car.
I know from experience any old brake pad should not be used, you literally have to stand on the brake pedal to slow the car....
I recommend high friction material "Hawk Street brake pads" see link below, the "hawk hp plus" can be noisy and squeal when cold do not use them on a road going corvette unless you take your car to the track.
It should be quite easy to activate the abs without much effort.
http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50f&ukey=19690
Last edited by gerardvg; Mar 5, 2015 at 09:33 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
To check your brake booster: press on the brake pedal and then start the engine. When the vacuum kicks in the brake pedal will sink slightly. If it doesn't then the booster diaphragm or housing is probably bad.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 429
Likes: 29
From: Brooklyn, MI
That is a good easy test, just found mine bad today it had a large crack at the bottom, what a pain to get out. Hope it goes in easier.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,153
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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Easiest way.Usually stiff pedal points to the booster, soft pedal to the MC.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Good advice above. Check and see about maybe the cracked booster. It is the major source of a hard pedal. Sometime the rubber hoses can collapse but they usually wont allow fluid back out. Also, if the pads are some special performance pad, sometimes they have to be pretty hot to get a good grab.
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,371
Likes: 2,736
I have this situation on my 85. hope Cliffs testing technique is applicable for the 85. will try later today.
but here is a question, so far we have cheap pads being nice to rotors but needing lots of pressure to get them to stop. then we have high end pads that need to be hot first and not sure that daily driver stop and go traffic counts as getting them hot enough...so...is there a goldilocks set of pads that work "just right" if you want good powerful breaking but do not plan on racing?
but here is a question, so far we have cheap pads being nice to rotors but needing lots of pressure to get them to stop. then we have high end pads that need to be hot first and not sure that daily driver stop and go traffic counts as getting them hot enough...so...is there a goldilocks set of pads that work "just right" if you want good powerful breaking but do not plan on racing?
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I have this situation on my 85. hope Cliffs testing technique is applicable for the 85. will try later today.
but here is a question, so far we have cheap pads being nice to rotors but needing lots of pressure to get them to stop. then we have high end pads that need to be hot first and not sure that daily driver stop and go traffic counts as getting them hot enough...so...is there a goldilocks set of pads that work "just right" if you want good powerful breaking but do not plan on racing?
but here is a question, so far we have cheap pads being nice to rotors but needing lots of pressure to get them to stop. then we have high end pads that need to be hot first and not sure that daily driver stop and go traffic counts as getting them hot enough...so...is there a goldilocks set of pads that work "just right" if you want good powerful breaking but do not plan on racing?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville TN
I had the same issue with my 89. New pads and rotors, booster cracked after an Autox and MC went out. Replaced both and braking was still horrible. Replaced part store pads with Hawk HPS pads from VB&P and the brakes will throw you through the windshield now. It's all about the pads. They work great for autox too!