C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Large amp draw when car off

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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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I unplugged the wires on top of the evap under the hood so that should of covered that.

Also the wire to the starter doesn't cause the load. Only the wires at the distribution point behind the battery.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
1987 convertible automatic

I disconnected the alternator also and its been replaced since buying the car too.
Did you disconnect the connector and the 12V that is nutted. I'm assuming you did but I've seen it overlooked.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:11 PM
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Nope just the connector not the nut. I will be doing that tomorrow morning as its on my list to try.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Nope just the connector not the nut. I will be doing that tomorrow morning as its on my list to try.
rooting for you here. you desearve to find the solution with the effort u have into it
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
rooting for you here. you desearve to find the solution with the effort u have into it
Thanks. Need all the help I can get on this one
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Thanks. Need all the help I can get on this one
bose relay?

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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 03:47 PM
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Bose relay is now toast.

Didn't fix the problem though
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 04:25 PM
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Removed the switches and info center from the center of the dash.

Behind it I did the following:

Pulled blue box thing which I think is the chime noisemaker box.

Pulled starter relay.

All fuses in the aux fuse holder.

Horn relay and hazard flasher.

Also unplug the climate control while I was at it.

No effect.

Grrrrrrrrr.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Forgot to mention I unplugged the alternator and removed the charge wire under the nut. So completely undone and still has drain.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I don't know if I overlooked anything else or not but if this car has C68 ATC I believe the blower module is powered directly from a fusible link to the starter motor. In later years if the blower module was bad the fan runs all of the time. I'm not sure what happens with an early C68 car. Disconnect/unplug the blower module I'd think much easier than removing fusible link from the starter motor.

Red wire at the blower module is a direct feed from the starter motor if the FSM image posted earlier might be in error.

An '86 is wired this way and I'd think an '87 done similarly. The FSM image earlier doesn't seem to agree with this but I'd think it easier to just assume maybe it is similar to the '86 and unplug the module to confirm.

Later years are also done to the starter motor. I checked a '90 FSM.


I was going to ask if you have the C68 heat/air con and if so do you hear the AC blower running at all, even after shutdown? Not sure if the wiring is the same as my '91, but there is also a fuze in the engine comp on the firewall behind the coolant fill tank that can be the culprit, as can a bad AC controller, or a short on one of the circuits to it (FSM says which wire to chase but I don't recall which one right now, but may be different on your year anyway). Mine started this crap when I was on a road trip. I ended up having to pull the wires at night to make sure it would start in the morning...
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 05:59 PM
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Ive unplugged everything a/c related and no effect. Even pulled the controller loose in the dash, the blower motor itself and the plugs on top of the evap under the hood.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Also the wire to the starter doesn't cause the drain. The drain is feeding from all the wires in the distribution block behind the battery. Well all the wires have the drain except 1.

That's whats driving me nuts. I would of bet money only one wire at that block would have the drain.

What could possibly effect all those wires at once?
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Ive unplugged everything a/c related and no effect. Even pulled the controller loose in the dash, the blower motor itself and the plugs on top of the evap under the hood.
is it possible that the battery itself is leaking energy?
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Also the wire to the starter doesn't cause the drain. The drain is feeding from all the wires in the distribution block behind the battery. Well all the wires have the drain except 1.

That's whats driving me nuts. I would of bet money only one wire at that block would have the drain.

What could possibly effect all those wires at once?
have you inspected the block to see if there was a big melt down and maybe a bunch of wites are melted together?

and gotten your head under the dash to look at where it comes through the firewall?
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
is it possible that the battery itself is leaking energy?
Batteries fine. Since I started this hunt its been undone except when the volt meter has been used to check the amp draw and for the first time since I bought the car in December the battery is still fully charged
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
have you inspected the block to see if there was a big melt down and maybe a bunch of wites are melted together?

and gotten your head under the dash to look at where it comes through the firewall?
Nope haven't tried that yet.

Im going to take a break and put the new door locks I bought a few months ago in. Figured achieving something positive is a healthy idea right now

Once I get at least the drivers door rekeyed I'll go back to hunting the drain again.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Ive unplugged everything a/c related and no effect. Even pulled the controller loose in the dash, the blower motor itself and the plugs on top of the evap under the hood.
The "Heat and AC Controller" (C68 system) is not the part on the dash where you adjust the settings, it's a box mounted up on the firewall in front of the gas pedal, has an electronic connection as well as a vacuum connection plug. It's only held in by one screw/bolt, but in order to get to it I had to drop the knee panel, disconnect all the wiring in the way, crawl in on my back and become a contortionist.

But... If your fan is not running, then probably not the problem.

Good luck. Chasing sparks is a PITA
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Batteries fine. Since I started this hunt its been undone except when the volt meter has been used to check the amp draw and for the first time since I bought the car in December the battery is still fully charged
You mention voltmeter a couple times in your posts. Can we assume this is just a mistake in terminology and you actually mean ampmeter? If using a multimeter, you are sure it is set to the amps scale? If set to volts and used in a series capacity, you could be measuring potential difference. Would explain why all the wires are doing the same.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
You mention voltmeter a couple times in your posts. Can we assume this is just a mistake in terminology and you actually mean ampmeter? If using a multimeter, you are sure it is set to the amps scale? If set to volts and used in a series capacity, you could be measuring potential difference. Would explain why all the wires are doing the same.
Unfortunately Im using my $400 fluke multimeter correctly. Would be nice if I wasn't since then I might not have the drain Im seeing

Its on the amps scale too. I even used my backup meter to test it. Same readings.

Battery is 12.8 volts right now with 2.60 to 2.65 amp draw.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Unfortunately Im using my $400 fluke multimeter correctly. Would be nice if I wasn't since then I might not have the drain Im seeing

Its on the amps scale too. I even used my backup meter to test it. Same readings.

Battery is 12.8 volts right now with 2.60 to 2.65 amp draw.
OK, just wasn't sure how experienced you were with a meter. Your Fluke will tell the truth.
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