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Shyeah..I thought I was gonna be lucky enough to get rid of the precats and not get the code..well..I was wrong. Today when I was driving to the Bay, it was probably 103º, and I had my A/C on..and my SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on..pulled over, checked it out..code 32..argh! Then when I started the car, it was off...like 30 minutes later back on for about 10 minutes..then off..hasn't came on again...Why is it doing this? Do I need a new EGR Temp Switch now? Thanks!
I am also getting this code, the owner before me had flowmasters put on. I asked or did a search on this subject and most people say ignore it or a chip programmed to delete code 32. I'm a newbie so I really no nothing about this, except for the advice I got from others. I also only get the code when I stay at a steady rpm for like 5 to 7 min
I don't have the precats and I have flowmasters and I don't get the code 32. I live in central NY, so it doesn't get really hot here, but I have never gotten that code.
Since it showed up after you were on the highway it's because the EGR temp sw is not sending the On signal back to the ECM after the ECM has turned On the EGR valve.
I suspect either a vacuum leak or the EGR valve is sticking and so not responding to the signal. If valuum lines are in tact, take the car onto an interstate and set cruise to see if the problem repeats. If it does apply a signal to the EGR solenoid with the engine on a fast idle. Then, with a mirror, observe that the EGR valve moves. If so measure the voltage at the EGR temp sensor on top of the EGR tube; it should go from +5Vdc to ground shortly after the EGR valve closes. If the valve isn't moving, measure vacuum with a T at the EGR valve; if vacuum is there on command replace the EGR valve, else replace the EGR solenoid.
The EGR valve is located under the left rear of the plenum. You will need a quality 10mm open/box end wrench to access the two bolts holding the valve to the intake base and to remove some of the upper runner bolts on the left side of the plenum.
The EGR solenoid is located under the left front of the plenum near the thermostat housing.
Backpressure. The reduced back pressure effects the egr operation. :cry
Hmmm....
I don't know Dave, L98 w/ MAF not as sensitive as LT-1 w/ speed density.
with no other mods done at the same time, I removed all my cats, installed headers and ran straight pipe out the back with no EGR related codes. Maybe I got lucky.
I did however have an O2 sensor that was running a little too cool( the same kind of conditions Tim describes). BTW, I think I am gonna have John Lingenfelter autograph the SR plennum lid tomorrow in Monterey:cheers:
Tim, any previous changes right before the code showed up? Is it the stock GM valve?
No changes, except the MAD PreCatLess Front Y-pipe and an R.T. Cat with no mufflers and what not. Stock GM Valve. It's doing just like Vader said..only came on in 100+º freeway driving.
From: 63.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot.
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
Re: argh! Code 32 got me! (TIMSPEED)
I NEVER got a code 32 until I put a no pre cat front 'Y' and a high flow main cat on the car. Since then any time I get on the highway at constant speed, around 70 most of the time, I get a code 32. Temp. seems to be unrelated. I have gotten the code in high temps 90+ and cool mid 50's. The general thinking over the past couple of years here on the forum is that it is back pressure related. More accurately it is a lack of back pressure problem. Ignore it and enjoy the car.
I got fronted with it last week when temps were in the high 90s and heat indexes pushed things up in the 100s. I'm gonna tend to ignore it or at least put in the low-priority `Vette repair triage.. :yesnod:
Got me twice last week. Both times (1 evening and 1 morning) the outside temp was in the 70s and both times were on the interstate. Had just had the precats eliminated and a new cat installed. Could resetting the ECM (removing the + bat term) eliminate the problem? Scares me every time the SES light comes on. :eek:
I would suggest that you remove the negative terminal from the battery instead of the positive. There is less of a chance for fireworks that way! :flag
By disconnecting the battery, you will reset the codes in the computer (unless you have the OBD II), but they will come right back if the fault code comes up again.
P.S. For those of you who have that code come up too much, you can always wire in an on/off switch to turn off the check engine light. Be carefult if you do this though because you may miss something important and you won't know about it if the light is turned off. :yesnod:
Hmm..I probably have close to NO backpressure..but if I replaced my EGR temp switch (back of the manifold) as well as the EGR Solenoid (middle of manifold) would this solve the problem? They're both easy swaps, so...But I mean, I don't wanna waste the money if this is being caused by low backpressure...cuz I'm not changing my exhaust. :D