C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

no ac help

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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 12:17 AM
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Default no ac help

I have a 1992 cant get the ac to work there is no hvac codes either. I have the auto heater to any thoughts?
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 12:33 AM
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That's kind of hard to diagnose with what you posted.

It could be out of Freon.

Bad low pressure switch.

Bad high pressure switch.

etc.

Does the compressor come on when you turn the a/c on?
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by crowz
That's kind of hard to diagnose with what you posted.

It could be out of Freon.

Bad low pressure switch.

Bad high pressure switch.

etc.

Does the compressor come on when you turn the a/c on?
no compresser does not come on
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 12:45 AM
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You must have enough refrigerant in the system to turn on the low pressure switch to get the compressor to engage. It's possible that the low pressure switch is bad. You can test for a low pressure switch problem by unplugging it and jumpering across the connector pins. The engine does not have to be running, just turn on the AC and the ignition. The compressor clutch should click (quite loudly) when the low pressure switch is jumped (assuming everything else is OK).

I understand that later years have a relay to turn on the compressor (I have an earlier car that does it through the blower control module). Is the relay OK?

The "A/C" fuse is for the compressor -- is that OK?

Last edited by Cliff Harris; Mar 27, 2015 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
You must have enough refrigerant in the system to turn on the low pressure switch to get the compressor to engage. It's possible that the low pressure switch is bad. You can test for a low pressure switch problem by unplugging it and jumpering across the connector pins. The engine does not have to be running, just turn on the AC and the ignition. The compressor clutch should click (quite loudly) when the low pressure switch is jumped (assuming everything else is OK).

I understand that later years have a relay to turn on the compressor (I have an earlier car that does it through the blower control module). Is the relay OK?

The "AC" fuse is for the compressor -- is that OK?
when I jump the low pressure switch clutch does not engage
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kcrowl
when I jump the low pressure switch clutch does not engage
Are you getting power to the compressor when you do this test? Of course be sure the ignition and a/c switch are on.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 02:06 PM
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As mentioned testing the compressor for power is a good idea. I used to rule that out and hunt elsewhere first but I actually had a bad clutch once. They wanted $279 for the clutch and $135 for a new compressor WITH the clutch. I remember when you could by the clutch assembly for $35 for most of them.

Anyways as mentioned the electro magnet clutch can go out itself and the clutch plates can wear down so far that with age it cant pull the plate to engage the clutch. So checking for power there is a good idea.

If the clutch doesn't have power and jumping the low pressure switch doesn't engage it then normally theres a blown fuse or a bad controller on fancier a/c control units.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
As mentioned testing the compressor for power is a good idea. I used to rule that out and hunt elsewhere first but I actually had a bad clutch once. They wanted $279 for the clutch and $135 for a new compressor WITH the clutch. I remember when you could by the clutch assembly for $35 for most of them.

Anyways as mentioned the electro magnet clutch can go out itself and the clutch plates can wear down so far that with age it cant pull the plate to engage the clutch. So checking for power there is a good idea.

If the clutch doesn't have power and jumping the low pressure switch doesn't engage it then normally theres a blown fuse or a bad controller on fancier a/c control units.
I have no power to the low pressure switch
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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no power to the low pressure switch
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 03:28 PM
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Fuse feeds climate control in car.

Climate control feeds power to the high pressure switch.

High pressure switch feeds power to the low pressure switch.

Low pressure switch sends power to compressor.

According the shop manual

So if low pressure switch has no juice on either wire then check the high pressure switch.

If the high pressure switch doesn't have power and the fuse isn't blown the problems in the climate control inside.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
As mentioned testing the compressor for power is a good idea. I used to rule that out and hunt elsewhere first but I actually had a bad clutch once. They wanted $279 for the clutch and $135 for a new compressor WITH the clutch. I remember when you could by the clutch assembly for $35 for most of them.

Anyways as mentioned the electro magnet clutch can go out itself and the clutch plates can wear down so far that with age it cant pull the plate to engage the clutch. So checking for power there is a good idea.

If the clutch doesn't have power and jumping the low pressure switch doesn't engage it then normally theres a blown fuse or a bad controller on fancier a/c control units.
I jumped the low pressure switch and the compresser came on any thoughts could it mean that its low on Freon but remember the hvac is not showing any codes
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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Well a bad low pressure switch could cause that or its low on Freon. If you can jumper the low pressure switch and it cools fine aka nice and cold then it probably is fine on the Freon level just a bad switch.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kcrowl
I jumped the low pressure switch and the compresser came on any thoughts could it mean that its low on Freon but remember the hvac is not showing any codes
Yes, the switch is designed to shut down the system in the event of low refrigerant.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 07:13 PM
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Ebay has r134 and 12 replacement for about $50 for 12 cans

Last edited by antfarmer2; Mar 27, 2015 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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Ebay has 134 and r12 replacment for about $50 for 12 cans
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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All full lot of "guessing" going on around here..

to properly diagnose the A/C system you need a Gauge set, a fluke meter, and an FSM.. other wise your just throwing darts..

just saying
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by desertmike1
All full lot of "guessing" going on around here..

to properly diagnose the A/C system you need a Gauge set, a fluke meter, and an FSM.. other wise your just throwing darts..

just saying
My preferred method of fixing a/c is to tell the owner to go get me something from the store and use my gauges, meter etc to fix it myself but since this is a forum we kind of have to play it this way
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Yes just a gusse but the fill scharder valve is old and needs to be replaced and can be done without losing your charge and the low freon will keep it from working easy test is take the cap off spite on your finger and fill the hole and look for bubbles

Last edited by antfarmer2; Mar 28, 2015 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Yes just a gusse but the fill scharder valve is old and needs to be replaced and can be done without losing your charge
Thats dangerous advice there.
Say the system is fully charged and someone removes the schrader valve, they're going to get a face full of refrigerant and oil.

Yes, it can be done with a tool designed to do it, like shown below. I dug that out of my tools that I never use box because when a schrader valve does leak it's either already out of refrigerant or the proper cap can be put on to seal it shut.

But money would be better spent on some means of checking pressure. Say like a gauge or something....

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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Yes just a gusse but the fill scharder valve is old and needs to be replaced and can be done without losing your charge and the low freon will keep it from working easy test is take the cap off spite on your finger and fill the hole and look for bubbles
Anytime you remove a Schrader valve you loose the contents on the other side of it.. no way around this!

I have seen and read too many times were a guy has overcharged his system by Guessing, I have also seen and read were a guy replaces his safety/operational switch's while in fact he was low on "Gas"

I don't agree with "Shorting" switch's in order to trouble shoot, if your switch communicates with the ECM/PCM You could introduce an ESD event/transient into the computer..

Always use an high impedance meter and proceed with caution, other wise a simple problem becomes a much larger problem..
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