1994 convertible top problem
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 127
From: Ashland Alabama
If its like my 87 your not unlocking the top first. Its a metal tab that is under the rear deck lid dead center. I cant remember for sure but I think you pull it to you or maybe it slides over. Once that's done the top is released from the rear deck. Release the 2 pull tabs at the windshield and then fold the top forward to clear the rear deck. Now push the yellow button. The only thing the button does is unlock the rear deck. Lift the rear deck now all the way up. Now fold the top into the cargo area and then put the deck lid back down making sure it clicks on both sides locking down. Also if your new to the car you will need to buy a tube pillow if it doesn't have one to put on the rear plastic window to keep it from creasing.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
After you release the back of the top from the rear deck cover and you hit the button that releases the cover by activating your solenoids and hear a click it could be the solenoid not functioning. I doubt very much if both solenoids failed at the same time. You should see one side of the cover operable if not it's another problem. My solenoid stopped working on one side of my 95. I replaced it( hard to find) . There was a thread on rebuilding the solenoids as they gum up after many years and lack of use. I purchased mine on eBay. Good luck. If you can't release the top from the rear cover its another problem and not the solenoid.
Last edited by enventr; Apr 20, 2015 at 03:42 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 579
Likes: 120
From: Grapevine TX
Check out this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-is-dead.html
I posted some pics in there of the manual release levers. Those should let you get the decklid open, then you can find and fix the problem that's stopping the electric release from working.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-is-dead.html
I posted some pics in there of the manual release levers. Those should let you get the decklid open, then you can find and fix the problem that's stopping the electric release from working.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
Check out this thread
Decklid Actuator problem solved
#1
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-20-2013 10:16 AM
It's a bit of a story but a couple of weeks ago a friend came over with his '96 'vert. The decklid would not unlock on one side and the local dealer wasn't much help saying that the actuators were no longer available. I offered to help, then I began an exhaustive internet search to try to locate a new one. None of the major parts dealers could help out, but then I finally managed to find one NOS unit outside the US. I probably paid a little too much for it, but there wasn't much choice. When it arrived, I installed it, and it worked perfectly. Although I only asked my buddy to pay for the part and shipping, he was so happy that he gleefully overpaid me for my pains. I was a little embarrassed, after all, this is only recreation for me.
Anyway, I kept the old unit for further inspection, dismantling, and reassembly, and found that I was able to get it to work like new once again.
From reading old threads, I know that there are a number of Corvette owners with similar problems with the actuators, and I'm willing to freely share my new knowledge with them if they would like to PM me. If they don't want to bother trying to DIY, I'm willing to do the the rebuilds for much less than the cost of buying a used unit.
Happy motoring!
Reply
#2
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-20-2013 10:32 AM
Why don't you just share the solution?? That's what these forums are supposed to be for....I thought.
Reply
#3
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-20-2013 07:55 PM
I'm happy to share the solution! Just a lot of writing! Most solenoid actuators simply seize because they aren't used often enough. On the decklid unit I fixed, I found it easy to work on since it was out of the car, but I guess you might try to fix one without removing it.
Looking at the unit where the cable enters the body there is a black plastic double eared clamp that locks into slots in the metal body. These 2 clamps must be gently pried out of the slots, both at the same time, and the assembly will practically fly apart in your hands. Don't break these plastic parts, I don't know where you can replace these things if you do. (This is one of the reasons it is easier to do this with the actuator removed from the car.) You will likely find that the internal sliding part of the unit is seized in the cylinder. You will need to loosen it with whatever means you can find, penetrating oil, WD-40, gentle pressure, etc. Use some care in loosening the slide. If you remove it and aren't too careful, there is a small spring on the other end that will want to hide itself somewhere on your garage floor. Once you have the unit freed up, simply clean up the pieces, apply some light lube, and reassemble everything. Now you should have a perfectly working actuator once more! Contact me if you need further assistance.
Reply
#4
enventr's Avatarenventr , 04-20-2013 08:28 PM
I replaced mine a few months ago.Ebay had a brand new one for $125. That was the only one that I could find
Edit Reply
#5
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-21-2013 01:35 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cottagstan
I'm happy to share the solution! Just a lot of writing! Most solenoid actuators simply seize because they aren't used often enough. On the decklid unit I fixed, I found it easy to work on since it was out of the car, but I guess you might try to fix one without removing it.
Looking at the unit where the cable enters the body there is a black plastic double eared clamp that locks into slots in the metal body. These 2 clamps must be gently pried out of the slots, both at the same time, and the assembly will practically fly apart in your hands. Don't break these plastic parts, I don't know where you can replace these things if you do. (This is one of the reasons it is easier to do this with the actuator removed from the car.) You will likely find that the internal sliding part of the unit is seized in the cylinder. You will need to loosen it with whatever means you can find, penetrating oil, WD-40, gentle pressure, etc. Use some care in loosening the slide. If you remove it and aren't too careful, there is a small spring on the other end that will want to hide itself somewhere on your garage floor. Once you have the unit freed up, simply clean up the pieces, apply some light lube, and reassemble everything. Now you should have a perfectly working actuator once more! Contact me if you need further assistance.
Awesome post! That's what makes these forums killer. That is great info...and thanks for taking the time to post it all!
Reply
#6
BSenzina's AvatarBSenzina , 04-21-2013 09:42 AM
The door button doesnt work but the one in the ceter console does work. Do you think it s the button that is the problem??
Reply
#7
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-21-2013 11:53 AM
I would start with the button as my first suspect.
Reply
#8
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-21-2013 09:04 PM
X2. Seems pretty self evident on that one.
Reply
#9
Cliff Harris's AvatarCliff Harris , 04-22-2013 01:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSenzina
The door button doesnt work but the one in the ceter console does work. Do you think it s the button that is the problem??
I assume this is the same setup as the coupe's hatch. I have a coupe, so I don't have detailed knowledge of how the convertible hatch works.
The hatch door switches get power from the interior light delay module. Apparently GM wanted to make sure the car was stopped when you pop the hatch. The door must be open to release the hatch (that's pretty obvious, as it's impossible to get to the hatch switches with the door closed). The switch(es) in the doors that control the interior lights must pop out when the door is open. It is VERY common for the plungers to get stuck in the switches and not come out. Make sure your interior lights come on when the door is opened.
The switch in the console only works with the trans in Park or Neutral. This applies to cars with automatics. Manual trans cars must have the emergency brake on to open the hatch with the console switch.
Reply
#10
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-22-2013 10:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Manual trans cars must have the emergency brake on to open the hatch with the console switch.
Or the car has to be turned off. Hatch will open w/ebrake off, engine off.
Reply
#11
Cliff Harris's AvatarCliff Harris , 04-23-2013 12:36 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Or the car has to be turned off. Hatch will open w/ebrake off, engine off.
Maybe they changed things in later years, but my '86 shop manual shows that the emergency brake has to be on with a manual trans -- page 8A-134-1.
Reply
#12
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-23-2013 01:04 AM
That makes sense. Mine is a '92 which has a CCM controlling things. Once the engine is off, any of the three switches will work. Good call.
EDIT: Well now I'm confused. I got curious and looked it up on Mitchell. Schematic shows just what you said; Power (hot at all times)->through primary side of hatch relay->console button->parking brake switch->ground.
So, I walked out to my '92, reached in the open window, checked that the park brake was off, then opened the console, hit the button and the hatch opened. (?)
Reply
#13
65Z01's Avatar65Z01 , 04-23-2013 03:42 AM
This thread is interesting as soon I'll be doing the inner/outer window sweeps. While the door panels are off I intend to lube the latches/locks and get the door hatch buttons working again...thanks...
Reply
#14
maddogwyatt's Avatarmaddogwyatt , 04-24-2013 02:00 PM
I didn't realise the decklid release was operated by solenoids until mine wouldn't work. I panicked for a few seconds until I realised I had the battery isolator on!! LOL what a jackass!
Reply
Reply
Similar Threads
Decklid Actuator problem solved
#1
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-20-2013 10:16 AM
It's a bit of a story but a couple of weeks ago a friend came over with his '96 'vert. The decklid would not unlock on one side and the local dealer wasn't much help saying that the actuators were no longer available. I offered to help, then I began an exhaustive internet search to try to locate a new one. None of the major parts dealers could help out, but then I finally managed to find one NOS unit outside the US. I probably paid a little too much for it, but there wasn't much choice. When it arrived, I installed it, and it worked perfectly. Although I only asked my buddy to pay for the part and shipping, he was so happy that he gleefully overpaid me for my pains. I was a little embarrassed, after all, this is only recreation for me.
Anyway, I kept the old unit for further inspection, dismantling, and reassembly, and found that I was able to get it to work like new once again.
From reading old threads, I know that there are a number of Corvette owners with similar problems with the actuators, and I'm willing to freely share my new knowledge with them if they would like to PM me. If they don't want to bother trying to DIY, I'm willing to do the the rebuilds for much less than the cost of buying a used unit.
Happy motoring!
Reply
#2
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-20-2013 10:32 AM
Why don't you just share the solution?? That's what these forums are supposed to be for....I thought.
Reply
#3
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-20-2013 07:55 PM
I'm happy to share the solution! Just a lot of writing! Most solenoid actuators simply seize because they aren't used often enough. On the decklid unit I fixed, I found it easy to work on since it was out of the car, but I guess you might try to fix one without removing it.
Looking at the unit where the cable enters the body there is a black plastic double eared clamp that locks into slots in the metal body. These 2 clamps must be gently pried out of the slots, both at the same time, and the assembly will practically fly apart in your hands. Don't break these plastic parts, I don't know where you can replace these things if you do. (This is one of the reasons it is easier to do this with the actuator removed from the car.) You will likely find that the internal sliding part of the unit is seized in the cylinder. You will need to loosen it with whatever means you can find, penetrating oil, WD-40, gentle pressure, etc. Use some care in loosening the slide. If you remove it and aren't too careful, there is a small spring on the other end that will want to hide itself somewhere on your garage floor. Once you have the unit freed up, simply clean up the pieces, apply some light lube, and reassemble everything. Now you should have a perfectly working actuator once more! Contact me if you need further assistance.
Reply
#4
enventr's Avatarenventr , 04-20-2013 08:28 PM
I replaced mine a few months ago.Ebay had a brand new one for $125. That was the only one that I could find
Edit Reply
#5
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-21-2013 01:35 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cottagstan
I'm happy to share the solution! Just a lot of writing! Most solenoid actuators simply seize because they aren't used often enough. On the decklid unit I fixed, I found it easy to work on since it was out of the car, but I guess you might try to fix one without removing it.
Looking at the unit where the cable enters the body there is a black plastic double eared clamp that locks into slots in the metal body. These 2 clamps must be gently pried out of the slots, both at the same time, and the assembly will practically fly apart in your hands. Don't break these plastic parts, I don't know where you can replace these things if you do. (This is one of the reasons it is easier to do this with the actuator removed from the car.) You will likely find that the internal sliding part of the unit is seized in the cylinder. You will need to loosen it with whatever means you can find, penetrating oil, WD-40, gentle pressure, etc. Use some care in loosening the slide. If you remove it and aren't too careful, there is a small spring on the other end that will want to hide itself somewhere on your garage floor. Once you have the unit freed up, simply clean up the pieces, apply some light lube, and reassemble everything. Now you should have a perfectly working actuator once more! Contact me if you need further assistance.
Awesome post! That's what makes these forums killer. That is great info...and thanks for taking the time to post it all!
Reply
#6
BSenzina's AvatarBSenzina , 04-21-2013 09:42 AM
The door button doesnt work but the one in the ceter console does work. Do you think it s the button that is the problem??
Reply
#7
cottagstan's Avatarcottagstan , 04-21-2013 11:53 AM
I would start with the button as my first suspect.
Reply
#8
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-21-2013 09:04 PM
X2. Seems pretty self evident on that one.
Reply
#9
Cliff Harris's AvatarCliff Harris , 04-22-2013 01:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSenzina
The door button doesnt work but the one in the ceter console does work. Do you think it s the button that is the problem??
I assume this is the same setup as the coupe's hatch. I have a coupe, so I don't have detailed knowledge of how the convertible hatch works.
The hatch door switches get power from the interior light delay module. Apparently GM wanted to make sure the car was stopped when you pop the hatch. The door must be open to release the hatch (that's pretty obvious, as it's impossible to get to the hatch switches with the door closed). The switch(es) in the doors that control the interior lights must pop out when the door is open. It is VERY common for the plungers to get stuck in the switches and not come out. Make sure your interior lights come on when the door is opened.
The switch in the console only works with the trans in Park or Neutral. This applies to cars with automatics. Manual trans cars must have the emergency brake on to open the hatch with the console switch.
Reply
#10
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-22-2013 10:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Manual trans cars must have the emergency brake on to open the hatch with the console switch.
Or the car has to be turned off. Hatch will open w/ebrake off, engine off.
Reply
#11
Cliff Harris's AvatarCliff Harris , 04-23-2013 12:36 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Or the car has to be turned off. Hatch will open w/ebrake off, engine off.
Maybe they changed things in later years, but my '86 shop manual shows that the emergency brake has to be on with a manual trans -- page 8A-134-1.
Reply
#12
Tom400CFI's AvatarTom400CFI , 04-23-2013 01:04 AM
That makes sense. Mine is a '92 which has a CCM controlling things. Once the engine is off, any of the three switches will work. Good call.
EDIT: Well now I'm confused. I got curious and looked it up on Mitchell. Schematic shows just what you said; Power (hot at all times)->through primary side of hatch relay->console button->parking brake switch->ground.
So, I walked out to my '92, reached in the open window, checked that the park brake was off, then opened the console, hit the button and the hatch opened. (?)
Reply
#13
65Z01's Avatar65Z01 , 04-23-2013 03:42 AM
This thread is interesting as soon I'll be doing the inner/outer window sweeps. While the door panels are off I intend to lube the latches/locks and get the door hatch buttons working again...thanks...
Reply
#14
maddogwyatt's Avatarmaddogwyatt , 04-24-2013 02:00 PM
I didn't realise the decklid release was operated by solenoids until mine wouldn't work. I panicked for a few seconds until I realised I had the battery isolator on!! LOL what a jackass!
Reply
Reply
Similar Threads
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 127
From: Ashland Alabama
One thing I forgot when I listed how to open the top again if yours is the same as my 87. There are two flaps that snap at the window frame (one on each side, one drivers side and one passenger side) that have to be unbutton too.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
