4+3 Clutch Replacement Cost
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 30
From: Indianapolis
4+3 Clutch Replacement Cost
Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but the last thing i saw related to this in the search was from 2008 and I'd bet things have changed since then.
Took my 88 out tonight and noticed the clutch is starting to slip when the car was being put into reverse. The clutch engages really low in the travel and I knew it was coming, I've just been waiting for the "right time". It looks like that time is at hand.
Is there anything I should watch out for or know ahead of having it replaced? I know the ZF6 in my 92 has a Dual mass Flywheel and it CAN NOT be refinished. Is the 4+3 the same way? I know to have them check the Throw Out Bearing, and to have them replace the filter/fluid on the OD and but is there anything else since it'll be torn apart?
Going to start calling shops tomorrow for estimates, also going to leave my FSM's in the car "Just in case". Anything else I should know? Anybody have a ballpark cost?
Located in Indianapolis, Car is a 1988 Z52 with 61,7xx miles on it.
Also, I am mechanically inclined but not for this. My 92 needs a Opti and Water Pump that I'm going to do in about two weeks, but dropping the tranny for a clutch I can't do in my garage...
Thanks in advance!
Took my 88 out tonight and noticed the clutch is starting to slip when the car was being put into reverse. The clutch engages really low in the travel and I knew it was coming, I've just been waiting for the "right time". It looks like that time is at hand.
Is there anything I should watch out for or know ahead of having it replaced? I know the ZF6 in my 92 has a Dual mass Flywheel and it CAN NOT be refinished. Is the 4+3 the same way? I know to have them check the Throw Out Bearing, and to have them replace the filter/fluid on the OD and but is there anything else since it'll be torn apart?
Going to start calling shops tomorrow for estimates, also going to leave my FSM's in the car "Just in case". Anything else I should know? Anybody have a ballpark cost?
Located in Indianapolis, Car is a 1988 Z52 with 61,7xx miles on it.
Also, I am mechanically inclined but not for this. My 92 needs a Opti and Water Pump that I'm going to do in about two weeks, but dropping the tranny for a clutch I can't do in my garage...
Thanks in advance!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The 88 will have a standard clutch assembly and a standard flywheel.
It will be worth having the flywheel resurfaced; not a difficult job to remove the flywheel once the trans is out and the old disc and pressure plate are out. Cost is not that much either.
Replace the throwout bearing too. Have the shop check the clutch fork and check the slave cylinder and hydraulic hose for any signs of leaking.
Changing the fluid and filter in the OD can be done after the new clutch is in. Use regular DEXIII ATF fluid. Takes about 2.5 qts. The consensus from here years ago is to not use a synthetic ATF fluid. For a filter, use one of these:
CarQuest 85926
AC Delco TF 184
FRAM FT1024
NAPA ATP14717
Ford D0AZ-7A098-A
These filters are for a Ford FMX trans used in the late 60's to early 70's. They don't include the rubber grommet, but it can be re-used from the old filter. They won't have a gasket either but RTV black sealant will work fine.
It will be worth having the flywheel resurfaced; not a difficult job to remove the flywheel once the trans is out and the old disc and pressure plate are out. Cost is not that much either.
Replace the throwout bearing too. Have the shop check the clutch fork and check the slave cylinder and hydraulic hose for any signs of leaking.
Changing the fluid and filter in the OD can be done after the new clutch is in. Use regular DEXIII ATF fluid. Takes about 2.5 qts. The consensus from here years ago is to not use a synthetic ATF fluid. For a filter, use one of these:
CarQuest 85926
AC Delco TF 184
FRAM FT1024
NAPA ATP14717
Ford D0AZ-7A098-A
These filters are for a Ford FMX trans used in the late 60's to early 70's. They don't include the rubber grommet, but it can be re-used from the old filter. They won't have a gasket either but RTV black sealant will work fine.
Last edited by c4cruiser; Apr 23, 2015 at 09:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 30
From: Indianapolis
THANK YOU! that is GREAT information!
After quite a bit more research the problem seems to be more in depth than I thought. It looks like the OD unit is going bad and will need to be rebuilt as opposed to the clutch going out. I know I can get the rebuild kit for around $180. Has anybody ever done this? I have access to a lift and a hoist to get it all apart, but I've never taken on a job of this scope.
if I bought the rebuild kit what do you suppose it would cost to pay someone to do it?
Thanks!
After quite a bit more research the problem seems to be more in depth than I thought. It looks like the OD unit is going bad and will need to be rebuilt as opposed to the clutch going out. I know I can get the rebuild kit for around $180. Has anybody ever done this? I have access to a lift and a hoist to get it all apart, but I've never taken on a job of this scope.
if I bought the rebuild kit what do you suppose it would cost to pay someone to do it?
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 127
From: Ashland Alabama
Are you sure the od unit is the problem?
Normally the signs of that are slipping while going down the road and will be present in all gears.
Also where the pedal is when it catches has nothing to do with the od unit at all.
Normally the signs of that are slipping while going down the road and will be present in all gears.
Also where the pedal is when it catches has nothing to do with the od unit at all.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 30
From: Indianapolis
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 30
From: Indianapolis
Petal is pretty low to the carpet when it catches. Again what made me think it was the clutch at first.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 127
From: Ashland Alabama
Going into a gear has nothing to do with the od unit and the clutch pedals behavior has nothing to do with the od unit.
Its bolted to the back of the transmission and just changes the ratio to the back wheels. Doesn't have anything to do with what gear your in or how it shifts between gears.
Its not a gear inside the transmission at all its an addon after all that. It will either engage or not engage for the most part or flat leave you stranded. It wont effect shifting.
Its bolted to the back of the transmission and just changes the ratio to the back wheels. Doesn't have anything to do with what gear your in or how it shifts between gears.
Its not a gear inside the transmission at all its an addon after all that. It will either engage or not engage for the most part or flat leave you stranded. It wont effect shifting.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 30
From: Indianapolis
Going into a gear has nothing to do with the od unit and the clutch pedals behavior has nothing to do with the od unit.
Its bolted to the back of the transmission and just changes the ratio to the back wheels. Doesn't have anything to do with what gear your in or how it shifts between gears.
Its not a gear inside the transmission at all its an addon after all that. It will either engage or not engage for the most part or flat leave you stranded. It wont effect shifting.
Its bolted to the back of the transmission and just changes the ratio to the back wheels. Doesn't have anything to do with what gear your in or how it shifts between gears.
Its not a gear inside the transmission at all its an addon after all that. It will either engage or not engage for the most part or flat leave you stranded. It wont effect shifting.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-reverse.html
I did check the Master/Slave Cylinder and am going to again when my dad gets into town for a second set of eyes on it, but it all appears normal with no leaking and normal amounts of fluid. The clutch has been firm until the last week or so though, which leads me to wonder if it's not the clutch other than the fact that the clutch point has been relatively low in the travel. (As compared to my 92 anyway which is all the way at the top).
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Reverse gear is inside the OD housing, not in the 4-speed part like you would normally see in a "regular" B-W Super T-10.
With my '87, I had a similar case of grinding when going into Reverse. It got to the point where I had to shut the engine off, go into Reverse and re-start the engine. The forward gears worked fine but it took extra effort to move the shifter into 1st.
So I decided to have the clutch replaced. Turned out the friction material on the disc was about gone. Fortunately, the flywheel was OK znd didn't need machining (lightweight flywheel). A new clutch assembly solved the problem and 6 years later, everything is working fine. The only real problem with the OD is the button on the shifter; takes 2-3 times of pressing the button to get into or out of OD.
With my '87, I had a similar case of grinding when going into Reverse. It got to the point where I had to shut the engine off, go into Reverse and re-start the engine. The forward gears worked fine but it took extra effort to move the shifter into 1st.
So I decided to have the clutch replaced. Turned out the friction material on the disc was about gone. Fortunately, the flywheel was OK znd didn't need machining (lightweight flywheel). A new clutch assembly solved the problem and 6 years later, everything is working fine. The only real problem with the OD is the button on the shifter; takes 2-3 times of pressing the button to get into or out of OD.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 127
From: Ashland Alabama
While that makes a lot of sense sense, I've also found a few different sources saying that if it's slipping and wanting to grind going into reverse the OD is going because the Friction rings are worn out in the OD making the OD shot.... Not totally sure, never dealt with such a beast before.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-reverse.html
I did check the Master/Slave Cylinder and am going to again when my dad gets into town for a second set of eyes on it, but it all appears normal with no leaking and normal amounts of fluid. The clutch has been firm until the last week or so though, which leads me to wonder if it's not the clutch other than the fact that the clutch point has been relatively low in the travel. (As compared to my 92 anyway which is all the way at the top).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-reverse.html
I did check the Master/Slave Cylinder and am going to again when my dad gets into town for a second set of eyes on it, but it all appears normal with no leaking and normal amounts of fluid. The clutch has been firm until the last week or so though, which leads me to wonder if it's not the clutch other than the fact that the clutch point has been relatively low in the travel. (As compared to my 92 anyway which is all the way at the top).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 120
From: AZ
