C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

TPS resulting in high idle ???

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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 01:01 PM
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Default TPS resulting in high idle ???

All,
1991 m6

Been battling various issues but a new one popped up the other day right after I got a new reman ECM which fixed my ccm codes.

While driving above 70 or so, I'd put it in neutral to coast and the idle would stay at 1800 rpms. Later on in the trip, it was fine and would drop to 750-800. Again later on, it acted up. CEL lit up, then went off, no codes stored. Came to a stop light, engine died. Immediately restarted and ran fine the rest of the way home.

The TPS was new around June of last year...doesn't mean it isn't junk. I can't remember where I bought it from in order to return for warranty claim. I still need to check to make sure it isn't loose and moving around.

I have not hooked up Datamaster in order to double check anything, just wanted to see if a bad TPS could cause the high idle speed?

The throttle body is new and in great shape, the butterfly is closing all of the way while this is happening.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 09:25 PM
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TPS can cause high and too low idle. Can also cause the engine to shut down while sitting in traffic. Even after all that, the TPS will function as it should and will not throw a code. I had issues similar on another GM vehicle. As a last ditch effort I bought a cheap TPS, $15, off ebay. Solved my idle. Prices ranged form 15 to 62$ off ebay.
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
TPS can cause high and too low idle. Can also cause the engine to shut down while sitting in traffic. Even after all that, the TPS will function as it should and will not throw a code. I had issues similar on another GM vehicle. As a last ditch effort I bought a cheap TPS, $15, off ebay. Solved my idle. Prices ranged form 15 to 62$ off ebay.
Mine was dead because as I would move the throttle up it jumped around with the voltage , instead of a nice smooth voltage increase.
It looked ok but screwed my idle all up.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Deepa
While driving above 70 or so, I'd put it in neutral to coast and the idle would stay at 1800 rpms. Later on in the trip, it was fine and would drop to 750-800. Again later on, it acted up. CEL lit up, then went off, no codes stored. Came to a stop light, engine died. Immediately restarted and ran fine the rest of the way home.
Sounds like you went into "throttle follower mode". The ECM opens the IAC as the throttle is opened. This prevents the engine from stalling when you take your foot off the gas pedal and the throttle blades slam shut (air flow goes from high to basically zero). The idle should gradually decay down to normal in a few seconds. The ECM uses vehicle speed to determine when to decay the IAC, so if you're coasting at a relatively high speed it won't decay. The decay normally happens when you are driving along and then come to a stop, so it happens pretty fast.

Originally Posted by Deepa
I have not hooked up Datamaster in order to double check anything, just wanted to see if a bad TPS could cause the high idle speed?
When you do data log, check the IAC numbers when you come to a stop.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 02:07 AM
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My tps sensor went bad a few weeks ago and high idle was the first symptom. Wife and I were going thru a drivethru and the idle shot up to 1800 or so and wouldn't come back down. Then after a few minutes it dropped down. We got our food and pulled around and parked. After a few minutes sitting there listening to the radio the idle shot up again. I cut the car off and checked for a weak return spring or something or a vacuum leak and zilch. So we headed on to our next stop. Driving down the road with the cruise on it suddenly lost power. From that point on it did nothing under 1/4 pedal. With the 383 motor and 3.73 gears that trip home was "interesting" to say the least having to keep the pedal pushed down a 1/4. My vettes brakes were no match for that motor and rear end combo.

Anyways after getting home and hooking up the hand scanner it confirmed what I was guessing on the tps sensor and had a code for it to best I remember. One interesting thing was after the car cooled off it was fine again but I changed the sensor the next day anyways. Alls fine now.

So short version, yes the tps sensor can cause idle to go nuts and idle high.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:31 PM
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Okay so I fixed it. The tps was the cause but it wasn't bad. I replaced it a year ago.

The arm on the tps was binding against the throttle body when things got hot. I ohmed out the tps and it went through the range fine.

I noticed a mark on the throttle body and the arm of the tps. I filed down the arm a little, reinstalled, and test drove 40 miles without issues.

So the throttle was closing but the tps stayed open just enough to tell the computer to give more fuel while the aic made up for the lack of throttle body airflow.

When the tps did finally return, that caused the cel and the car to stall at idle because it was getting all confused.

Sound right?

Thank you all.

Mike
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:39 PM
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Wow, good job
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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Cool
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 10:20 PM
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If you were going 70 mph on the highway and shifted into neutral, then your motor did exactly what it was suppose to do by keeping the rpms up around 1800 rpm...Can you imagiing what would happen if your rpms dropped to around 650 rpm in neutral at that speed , then you pulled the transmission back into drive at 70 mph.... My rpms only start dropping in neutral when my speed starts dropping.This is because of the ( throttle follower mode) and decay that Cliff mentioned above, which keeps the rpms higher in neutral, when the car speeds are higher...If the system wasn't set up like this , there would be alot of blown transmissions around....WW

Last edited by WW7; May 1, 2015 at 05:52 AM.
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Old May 1, 2015 | 05:07 AM
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You're right, but it was never a quick drop to idle. It would stay at 1200ish then drop once stopped. 1800 to 2k was too high. It was like using cruise control, the car would actually gain speed depending on gear and how fast I was going.

Thanks
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Old May 1, 2015 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
If you were going 70 mph on the highway and shifted into neutral, then your motor did exactly what it was suppose to do by keeping the rpms up around 1800 rpm...Can you imagiing what would happen if your rpms dropped to around 650 rpm in neutral at that speed , then you pulled the transmission back into drive at 70 mph.... My rpms only start dropping ,when my speed starts dropping.This is because of the ( throttle follower mode) and decay that Cliff mentioned above, which keeps the rpms higher in neutral, when the car speeds are higher...If the system wasn't set up like this , there would be alot of blown transmissions around....WW
So are you telling that 1800 rpm in neutral at 70 mph are them correct?
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Old May 1, 2015 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Christi@n
So are you telling that 1800 rpm in neutral at 70 mph are them correct?
What I'm saying is at highway speeds if you shift into neutral , your rpms shouldn't drop straight down to idle..Your rpms should only drop down a small amount , so when you pull the transmission back into gear at that high speed, your not pulling it into gear on an engine doing only 650 rpms ..This would be like going down the highway in 6th gear with a stick shift at 70 mph, pushing in the clutch, shifting into 2nd gear, then poping the clutch . .The ecm makes sure you don't tear out your trans by monitoring your speed, then not letting the rpms drop down to the point where it would damage the motor or trans when you pulled it back into gear......WW

Last edited by WW7; May 1, 2015 at 06:26 AM.
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Old May 1, 2015 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Deepa
You're right, but it was never a quick drop to idle. It would stay at 1200ish then drop once stopped. 1800 to 2k was too high. It was like using cruise control, the car would actually gain speed depending on gear and how fast I was going.

Thanks
I understand now, glad you figured it out, if you hadn't noticed the tps arm on the TB was sticking you may have never gotten it fixed..WW
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Old May 1, 2015 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
What I'm saying is at highway speeds if you shift into neutral , your rpms shouldn't drop straight down to idle..Your rpms should only drop down a small amount , so when you pull the transmission back into gear at that high speed, your not pulling it into gear on an engine doing only 650 rpms ..This would be like going down the highway in 6th gear with a stick shift at 70 mph, pushing in the clutch, shifting into 2nd gear, then poping the clutch . .The ecm makes sure you don't tear out your trans by monitoring your speed, then not letting the rpms drop down to the point where it would damage the motor or trans when you pulled it back into gear......WW
My car is doing this now, stay around 1200 rpm when shift in neutral at 70 mph, I ever figured that is an issue by vacuum leak or ECM
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