Caliper bolts
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
Caliper bolts
Ok normally the bolts on the caliper for most vehicles I've done the brakes on have anti-seize on them, but I notice it seems everything in the rear seems to have Loctite on my 86. Almost seems as it was never apart form the looks of how it was applied, but with 90k and the amount of pads left it must have.
FYI I'm not doing the brakes atm, I'm doing a rear spindle washer install and some other suspension mods.
So basically when I put it all back together should I not use anti-seize on the caliper bolts?
FYI I'm not doing the brakes atm, I'm doing a rear spindle washer install and some other suspension mods.
So basically when I put it all back together should I not use anti-seize on the caliper bolts?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
If your talking about the bracket, you have to use loctite on them, then torque to spec...I used blue loctite but the FSM may suggest using the red, I can't remember off hand...The problem with red loctite is you have to heat the bolt to get it loose....WW
Last edited by WW7; Apr 29, 2015 at 04:24 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
I'm talking bout the small bolt that holds just the caliper on that you gotta use a wrench to hold the slider pin end, weird how it's two part. I agree on the blue, even tho this stuff is red it's not coming off that hard like red does.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,344
Likes: 2,727
For early calipers the bolts #4 in this image the FSM I believe mentions 22 - 25 lbft for a "NEW" self-locking bolt.
Last edited by WVZR-1; May 2, 2015 at 03:43 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If you don't want to go thru the hassle of cleaning the guide pin bolts (#4 in the pic) they are a common metric size and are available at hardware stores like Lowe's or Home Depot. The bolts are metric grade 8.8.
The important thing is to remove all of the old threadlocker, especially from the female threads in the guide pins. Those pins are a common GM part, used on a lot of GM disc brake-equipped cars. They are sold separately or as a kit that includes the pins, the bolts, and the rubber seal.
With the threads clean, apply a thin coat of Blue Loctite and torque to spec. The new GM bolts have a fairly thick coat of whatever they use (it's also blue in color) and it looks like a paste where the Loctite stuff is watery.
The important thing is to remove all of the old threadlocker, especially from the female threads in the guide pins. Those pins are a common GM part, used on a lot of GM disc brake-equipped cars. They are sold separately or as a kit that includes the pins, the bolts, and the rubber seal.
With the threads clean, apply a thin coat of Blue Loctite and torque to spec. The new GM bolts have a fairly thick coat of whatever they use (it's also blue in color) and it looks like a paste where the Loctite stuff is watery.
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