C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

what puller do i need for a crank hub on

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Old May 10, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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Default what puller do i need for a crank hub on

my 92 lt1. It apparently needs to screw into the existing threaded hole in the hub. Any options other then the 250 dollar set that's sold on ebay?
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Old May 10, 2015 | 04:15 PM
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A steering wheel/ pulley puller should do the trick. The tip of the forcing screw protects the crank treads.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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Make sure you mark it don't belive it's keyed and will need a new bolt
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Old May 10, 2015 | 05:36 PM
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That puller will work but you need to use 5/16 bolts with nuts because that puller is just a bit too small in diameter.

You also need to take the bolt out of the center holding the hub on and put a smaller diameter bolt in there thats approx 1" longer than the bolt you took out.

The hub has a 7/16 to 1/2" hole in the middle, it's not open the size of the crank snout, thats the reason for all this.

When you put it back on you need either 7/16 fine allthread rod 6", or a bolt approx a few inches longer than the one that holds the hub on.

Sorry, don't have any specifics, I had all the bolts in my parts drawers so I didn't measure anything.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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The center hub bolt is 5/8 and it slides through the hub and tightens into the crank to hold the hub on. Its been awhile but I believed I removed it and got a longer bolt at HD, Lowes or a hardware store to bottom the remover against. You'll also need three small diameter bolts nuts for the balance ears for the remover to attach to.

I used a remover like this -

Amazon.com: OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set: Automotive Amazon.com: OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set: Automotive
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Old May 10, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver96ce
The center hub bolt is 5/8 and it slides through the hub and tightens into the crank to hold the hub on. Its been awhile but I believed I removed it and got a longer bolt at HD, Lowes or a hardware store to bottom the remover against. You'll also need three small diameter bolts nuts for the balance ears for the remover to attach to.
url]
The center hub bolt HEX / WRENCH SIZE is 5/8"
The bolt size is 7/16"
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Old May 10, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
The center hub bolt HEX / WRENCH SIZE is 5/8"
The bolt size is 7/16"
specifically, it's 7/16ths fine thread.

unscrew the existing 7/16ths center bolt and screw in a longer 7/16th fine thread bolt; NOW set up your $20 generic puller, with the end of the puller screw bearing against the head of the aforementioned 7/16ths cap screw. The hub will move out ward till it contacts the underside of the head of the cap screw; disassemble, replace cap screw with a longer cap screw, repeat. After a couple of evolutions with ever longer cap screws, the hub will pop off.

A caveat: the hub comes off easily, if it doesn't, something is wrong, and trying to force matters with cheater bars, big hammers, etc. will only damage the hub and or crank snout.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 11:50 PM
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My mistake.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver96ce
My mistake.
you tried to help someone
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:24 AM
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I ordered one of these http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...89711/10002/-1 Its says its compatible with lt1 and l98 motors. I hope I didn't screw anything up. I had a standard puller on it thinking the shaft went all the way through and when it wouldn't come I put heat to it and a pipe on the breaker bar with lots of reef!! The picture of it in the service manual is so small I couldn't tell how it worked. Oh well this isn't the first bone headed moment of my life and wont be the last.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
specifically, it's 7/16ths fine thread.
You better contact Jegs because in that link above they say what size all the bolts are and it's ALL WRONG, they say 5/16" instead of 5/16ths!!!!!!!!

In fact just about everyone forgets the "ths" you've got your work cut out for you.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
You better contact Jegs because in that link above they say what size all the bolts are and it's ALL WRONG, they say 5/16" instead of 5/16ths!!!!!!!!

In fact just about everyone forgets the "ths" you've got your work cut out for you.
salt please
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Old May 11, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
You better contact Jegs because in that link above they say what size all the bolts are and it's ALL WRONG, they say 5/16" instead of 5/16ths!!!!!!!!

In fact just about everyone forgets the "ths" you've got your work cut out for you.
Pretty sure he was trying to emphasize the "fine thread" part which you had not mentioned. Had nothing to do with "ths".
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Old May 11, 2015 | 11:05 AM
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I gave up long ago mentioning USS or SAE because no one actually understood after the Metric "mix" the various Metric fine/coarse differences or the differences in the Metric hex specifications so I just mention the thread pitch. If someone doesn't get that then that's their problem.

7/16-20 and then it's up to the "USER".

Hex Metric hardware in the big box stores is another interesting experience usually.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale
I ordered one of these http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...89711/10002/-1 Its says its compatible with lt1 and l98 motors. I hope I didn't screw anything up. I had a standard puller on it thinking the shaft went all the way through and when it wouldn't come I put heat to it and a pipe on the breaker bar with lots of reef!! The picture of it in the service manual is so small I couldn't tell how it worked. Oh well this isn't the first bone headed moment of my life and wont be the last.
that puller will work, but first you've got to thread in an extra long 7/16th fine thread bolt into the crank snout for the puller to work against. If you just install the puller as is, it bears on the top of the hub, and no matter how much force you apply, none of it goes towards removing the hub from the crank snout, but all of it goes towards bending the ears on the crank hub.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
salt please
Thank You
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Old May 11, 2015 | 02:59 PM
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thanks for the help guys.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 11:45 PM
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Did u get it out yet? Man that Jegs puller must have something that will work - its got something for every car on the planet. Well if u didnt get it out yet FYI i used my craftsman 3 prong puller: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...id=00946906000.

It needs something to push on in the center so i found a long used bolt from my used bolt bucket and took the stock center bolt out then install the longer bolt in partway. Did the job.

Ya know there is some dedicated hub puller and installer for the LT1 but its like $200 or more. Here it is a Kent-Moore:http://www.toolsource.com/crankshaft...-p-111789.html. Only 433 bucks.


Hope this helps if not to late.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 06:30 AM
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pullers here but I haven't got back to working on it yet
Originally Posted by cardo0
Did u get it out yet? Man that Jegs puller must have something that will work - its got something for every car on the planet. Well if u didnt get it out yet FYI i used my craftsman 3 prong puller: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...id=00946906000.

It needs something to push on in the center so i found a long used bolt from my used bolt bucket and took the stock center bolt out then install the longer bolt in partway. Did the job.

Ya know there is some dedicated hub puller and installer for the LT1 but its like $200 or more. Here it is a Kent-Moore:http://www.toolsource.com/crankshaft...-p-111789.html. Only 433 bucks.


Hope this helps if not to late.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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got it off but needed to alter the puller. the slots for the 3 bolts that bolt to the hub were to small so had to be hogged out to take 3/8s bolts. I could have used 5/16s and put nuts behind the holes in the hub but I figured this way if I ever needed 3/8s again it was opened up.
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