87 C4 Starting and Engine Running problem
#22
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Clogged cats is also far more likely to show symptoms under heavy load, WOT than at idle and starting.
#23
I just replaced the FPR and I took extreme care not to damage the diaphragm. there is also no smell of gas in the hose.
I did pinch the intake fuel line and got no pressure at the fuel rail. then pinched the return line. now when I turn the key the pressure goes to 38-40#. then clicks and goes to zero. even with the return line pinched.
now if I turn the key on to get pressure then immediately turn it off the pressure holds I did this 3 times and got to 60# at the rail. with the key off it held steady until I released the return line.
I did pinch the intake fuel line and got no pressure at the fuel rail. then pinched the return line. now when I turn the key the pressure goes to 38-40#. then clicks and goes to zero. even with the return line pinched.
now if I turn the key on to get pressure then immediately turn it off the pressure holds I did this 3 times and got to 60# at the rail. with the key off it held steady until I released the return line.
#24
Cruising
Thread Starter
So....I bought a noid light and tested the injector pugs and what do you know with the key on they are lit up. if i crank the car they flash when i stop cranking they go out.
Now the fun stuff. if i leave the key on they may come on they may flicker. when this happens i AM NOT cranking the engine. it is just sitting with the key on. all 8 injectors and the cold start injectors do the same thing.
Now could this be my computer.
#25
Cruising
Thread Starter
Additional parts that have been changed
In addition to the parts listed above, i have recently changed the EGR Valve and the Idle Air Control Valve.
Now for a new list of parts that have been changed:
Fuel:
Filter, FPR.
Ignition:
Wires, Plugs, Ignition Module, Ignition Coil, Rotor, Rotor Cap.
Sensors:
EGR, Idle Air Control Valve, Mass Air Flow, Relays for MAF.
New seals on all injectors and fuel rail.
Cats are not clogged. Fuel should still be good but this all happened with fresh gas.
Now for a new list of parts that have been changed:
Fuel:
Filter, FPR.
Ignition:
Wires, Plugs, Ignition Module, Ignition Coil, Rotor, Rotor Cap.
Sensors:
EGR, Idle Air Control Valve, Mass Air Flow, Relays for MAF.
New seals on all injectors and fuel rail.
Cats are not clogged. Fuel should still be good but this all happened with fresh gas.
#26
Not really, The pick up coil isn't likely going to generate a pulse w/o the distributor shaft rotating, but I'd still visually inspect it. More likely I'd inspect the injector harness for shorts to ground. A short to ground, on the ground or "signal" side of the harness would activate the injectors when the key is on (power to the injectors).
did u check the harness? sounds like u need new harness and/or injectors.
i dont see A follow up to Tom's suggestion above nor do I see replaced injectors on your list. First I would check the harness.
#27
Cruising
Thread Starter
Update
Ok, it's been awhile since I had an update on my c4. The original problem was the car kept dying on me. I could pull the fuel injector fuses crank it for a wile then it would run for a short time.
I had posted that my injectors where clicking when the car was not running but the key was in the on position. After being told that was impossible I bought an avoid light and confirmed that all my injectors where active without the car running. To make matters worse this happened at random.
The fix:
new coy. That was all. Now she is purring like an old cat.
thanks for the help.
Brother.
I had posted that my injectors where clicking when the car was not running but the key was in the on position. After being told that was impossible I bought an avoid light and confirmed that all my injectors where active without the car running. To make matters worse this happened at random.
The fix:
new coy. That was all. Now she is purring like an old cat.
thanks for the help.
Brother.
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xrav22 (08-22-2017)