So last night while track racing, my car started to run extremely rough, missing, and stalling out. On the ride home, according to the instant mileage read out, in conditions I would normally get 20 or so mpg, I was getting 8-10 mpg. Pulled codes, got an 36 (Distributor Ignition System {Faulty High Resolution Pulse or Extra Low Resolution Pulse Detected}) and 45 (Bank 1 (Left Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Rich Exhaust Indicated). When I looked up the likely causes for the codes, for 36, this is what I saw-

Check connections at MAF, MAF relay and MAF Burn off relay. Check resistance of MAF relay and MAF burnoff relay with digital Ohm meter. replace if less than 18 Ohms. Possible ECM failure.

Problem is, the 92 and 93 LT1 Vettes didn't have a MAF. ECM was just rebuilt about 4 months ago. Thoughts?

For the code 45, this is the most likely causes from what I read-

Check evaporative charcoal canister for smell of fuel (which normally comes from filling fuel tank to full). check fuel pressure regulator. Possible leaking fuel injector or sticking/bad EGR valve. Possible bad Oxygen sensor.

Where is this charcoal canister located? How can I check for a leaking fuel injector? O2 sensors were just replaced with Bosch sensors 5-6 weeks ago. Any other things you can suggest to check?

These are the website I used to look up the codes and possible causes-

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/ecm.htm

I did get a pretty cool pic taken of me doing my time trial laps before the car went to ****-

 

Use the Drivability section of the FSM only for initial diagnostics and maybe follow up with the "Internet interpretation" of what to maybe check. FSM 6E3-XXX will direct you to the more than likely 1st checks.

The balance of your questions are also appropriately answered there regarding locations of components.

Your particular use of the car pretty much dictates you become more familiar than most with procedures and diagnostics. A quality scanner or good software might be something to investigate.

 

I haven't been able to get an FSM for my car yet.

 

this is what you are referring to with FSM right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-92-Chev...-/161742837777

 

On a 1992, the code 36 refers to the optispark distributor (and it's wiring). Nothing to do with the MAF.

Look under the 1992-1996 (LT-1 VIN P) section here -
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/

 

No that's the preliminary manual. You want the red cover edition. I didn't see any for sale on Ebay in a quick search. If you want to wait, you can keep checking. But the CD version is for sale right now -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/130741223537?lpid=82&chn=ps
I use the CD version for my '96. It took a little getting used to but now it's pretty easy for me to use.

 

Honestly, last night, when the car started to miss and stall out, my initial thought was the opti. I do have a used one that should still work.

 

ok, thanks

 

I should've looked a little closer at your Ebay link, it shows a 1992 FSM for sale here -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-CHEVY-CORVETTE-SERVICE-MANUAL-SET-SHOP-BOOKS-ORIGINAL-REPAIR-MANUAL/381305768682?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31192%26meid%3Dea249c1d673f4fd892167fcbb44c43fb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161742837777&rt=nc

 

$100? Damn, is that what I can expect to pay for an FSM? Think I'll order the CD version you first linked. Appreciate it though

 

Yeah they can be expensive. But sometimes they come up cheaper too.

 

Ok, so while I wait for the FSM CDs to arrive, should I go ahead and try reinstalling my old opti? It was installed in the car when I got it. I replaced it because it was covered in oil from an oil weak around the drive gear for the water pump, and the car had a miss back then which turned out to be caused by a bad ECM, so the old opti I'm thinking is still good. It'll probably cost me around $100 to get my mechanic roommate to do the change out.

 

You could just as easily save maybe double the price of the FSM using some of the "Internet interpretations" of your problems. Why would you want to pay the roomy $100 to replace the Opti without first determining that it's actually a problem OR "the problem".

 

I'm open to suggestions about what to do. It will be 7-10 days for the FSM to get here. The internet interpretations saying it's a problem with the opti is why I was asking if I should go ahead and get the change out done.

BTW, that $100 wouldn't be in cash, but in trade. My roommate wants a fishing rod and reel I have.

 

If that opti was covered with oil id at least pull the cap and put a new cap and rotor on it and see what it looks like inside. Lots of work to find out your dist. is full of oil and craps out in a couple weeks.