C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

I need an "odds maker" on this one!

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Old 06-29-2015, 07:06 PM
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L72M21
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Default I need an "odds maker" on this one!

What are the odds & ultimate consequences, worse case, of breaking the Torx head fasteners that attach the pipe over the passenger side valve cover to the intake manifold? I've replaced the drivers side valve cover gasket. Not a big deal, lots of stuff to move around, but nothing broke! I've sprayed the fasteners down with a good peneratant, but doubt that it will ever get to the threads. I've broken a wrench trying to remove the Torx fasteners. I tried to use my Milwaukee driver, but it was no help. I assume the fasteners are grade 8, but it is still possible to break them. Has anyone ever just Sazall the pipe in two places so that the VC can be lifted straight off, gasket replaced, then reconnect the cut out piece. Weld, braze, or use some kind of heat resistant exhaust putty to re attach. I've sold the car with the stipulation that the VC leak be fixed. So I don't want to spend $$ or break it. Twenty thousand miles on the car and almost nothing has ever been removed or touched. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Old 06-29-2015, 08:23 PM
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Joe C
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so, where did you break the torx bolt - at the intake or exhaust manifold? as far as cutting that thing in two places and using welding, brazing, or high temp putty, well, never heard of such a thing. not saying something like that can't be done, it might take some design and engineering up front work. anything's possible. I would think welding/brazing is out since you would have to go 360 around the tube. from the sound of things, I'd guess you broke the bolt at the intake side - dissimilar metals - steel/aluminum galvanic corrosion. do you have any threads of the bolt showing or any part of the shank? I've had some limited success drilling down thru the center of some bolts. my gut feeling is you're going to have work for this repair. I hate when crap like this happens!!! good luck -
Old 06-29-2015, 08:29 PM
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Try a bit of heat then tighten and loosen bouncing back and forth
Old 06-29-2015, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
so, where did you break the torx bolt - at the intake or exhaust manifold? as far as cutting that thing in two places and using welding, brazing, or high temp putty, well, never heard of such a thing. not saying something like that can't be done, it might take some design and engineering up front work. anything's possible. I would think welding/brazing is out since you would have to go 360 around the tube. from the sound of things, I'd guess you broke the bolt at the intake side - dissimilar metals - steel/aluminum galvanic corrosion. do you have any threads of the bolt showing or any part of the shank? I've had some limited success drilling down thru the center of some bolts. my gut feeling is you're going to have work for this repair. I hate when crap like this happens!!! good luck -
I may not have been very clear. The bolt has not been broken off, that's why I asked what are the odds? I know I'll be in real trouble if I do break it. I was wondering from guys who have really put a breaker bar on these Torx fasteners. Have you ever broken one off? Or are they grade 8, and almost impossible to break?
Old 06-29-2015, 08:55 PM
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s carter
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Try a bit of heat then tighten and loosen bouncing back and forth

I feel your pain but the most simple way that I have used is a quality Torts socket and a Impact 3/8 gun, as suggested above a little bit of heat goes a long way and wouldn't hurt.

for some reason even when these cars were new those bolts loved to shatter Torx bits, and using a braker bars seemed to want to twist the tube off of the Exhaust manifold and slap the sockets

Last edited by s carter; 06-29-2015 at 09:07 PM.
Old 06-29-2015, 08:56 PM
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L72M21
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Try a bit of heat then tighten and loosen bouncing back and forth
Kind'a did that with my driver tool. Hard to add much heat with the distributor and fuel rail being right there. Although that pipe gets quite hot each time the engine is running. Thanks for your input.
Old 06-29-2015, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by L72M21
Kind'a did that with my driver tool. Hard to add much heat with the distributor and fuel rail being right there. Although that pipe gets quite hot each time the engine is running. Thanks for your input.
Keep trying maybe a piece of dry ice on the head inbetween reps.
Old 06-29-2015, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
I feel your pain but the most simple way that I have used is a quality Torts socket and a Impact 3/8 gun, as suggested above a little bit of heat goes a long way and wouldn't hurt.

for some reason even when these cars were new those bolts loved to shatter Torx bits
Good point, first Vette I've worked on with all the emission stuff.
Have you ever snapped one off? Thanks
Old 06-29-2015, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by L72M21
Good point, first Vette I've worked on with all the emission stuff.
Have you ever snapped one off? Thanks
No but I have killed many Torx bits and stripped out the centers once or twice, than you wined up using Vise grips and ruin the bolts getting them out.

I take it from one of your post that you have one of the Semi rare ones that has just 2 bolts by the plenum and a clamp by the manifold, Either way if your dealing with the ones by the Plenum a good socket and impact (but don't install with impact)does the trick they tend to like to come out the ones by the manifold that's another story.
Old 06-29-2015, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
No but I have killed many Torx bits and stripped out the centers once or twice, than you wined up using Vise grips and ruin the bolts getting them out.

I take it from one of your post that you have one of the Semi rare ones that has just 2 bolts by the plenum and a clamp by the manifold, Either way if your dealing with the ones by the Plenum a good socket and impact (but don't install with impact)does the trick they tend to like to come out the ones by the manifold that's another story.
Thanks for that information. This Vette is a Dec 85 build with the cast iron heads. Yes two bolts at the top intake manifold end, and a SS one time use clamp at the lower ex manifold end. The same as the one that is used on the small pipe that goes to the main cat.
Semi rare, I wasn't aware that there is a different configeration, than the one I have? Please clarify.
Old 06-29-2015, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by L72M21
Thanks for that information. This Vette is a Dec 85 build with the cast iron heads. Yes two bolts at the top intake manifold end, and a SS one time use clamp at the lower ex manifold end. The same as the one that is used on the small pipe that goes to the main cat.
Semi rare, I wasn't aware that there is a different configeration, than the one I have? Please clarify.
later ones have a flanged bolt together using 2 torx bit bolts just like the ones by your plenum (just a little shorter) getting rid of the 1 time use crush clamp
Old 06-29-2015, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
later ones have a flanged bolt together using 2 torx bit bolts just like the ones by your plenum (just a little shorter) getting rid of the 1 time use crush clamp
I guess that's why some of the valve cover gasket replacement threads that I read, were confusing.
Old 06-30-2015, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by L72M21
I guess that's why some of the valve cover gasket replacement threads that I read, were confusing.
In this case the odds were in my favor, 100%! No broken Torx fasteners, or any other parts, Thanks to all who contributed.

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