Replacing 94 vette harmonic balancer
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Both balancer ring and hub/snout it bolts onto have marks on them. The balancer has a triangular mark and the hub/snout has a raised bump in between one of the three bolt arms the balancer bolts to. Crank the engine until #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke and press the snout with the raised bump at 12 o'clock on the crank. Then bolt the balancer onto the snout with the triangle mark lined up with the raised bump (at 12 o'clock also).
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Both balancer ring and hub/snout it bolts onto have marks on them. The balancer has a triangular mark and the hub/snout has a raised bump in between one of the three bolt arms the balancer bolts to. Crank the engine until #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke and press the snout with the raised bump at 12 o'clock on the crank. Then bolt the balancer onto the snout with the triangle mark lined up with the raised bump (at 12 o'clock also).
But if I remember right it only fit one way on the hub.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 93
Likes: 2
I had already put mine back on when I asked this question.
The car wouldn't start so I am just now getting back to this. Got it started yesterday.
Checked the hub position today. Looks like I have the bump on the hub about a quarter of a turn in advance of where it should be when number one cylinder is top dead center.
I wonder if I should pull it and reposition. Its a pain to get off.
But I don't want to tear it back down to get to it. That's a pain too.
LOL
The car wouldn't start so I am just now getting back to this. Got it started yesterday.
Checked the hub position today. Looks like I have the bump on the hub about a quarter of a turn in advance of where it should be when number one cylinder is top dead center.
I wonder if I should pull it and reposition. Its a pain to get off.
But I don't want to tear it back down to get to it. That's a pain too.
LOL
Both balancer ring and hub/snout it bolts onto have marks on them. The balancer has a triangular mark and the hub/snout has a raised bump in between one of the three bolt arms the balancer bolts to. Crank the engine until #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke and press the snout with the raised bump at 12 o'clock on the crank. Then bolt the balancer onto the snout with the triangle mark lined up with the raised bump (at 12 o'clock also).
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 93
Likes: 2
That was my assumption too when I put it on.
Then I started having doubts. Why bother with balancer being balanced if the position didn't matter.
This is the first one I ever pulled that wasn't key positioned to the crank.
I don't know. Maybe the all the ones that were keyed to crankshaft was to prevent slipping.
But it seems like I remember mopar small block performance motors had a matching balance weight on the torque converter that had to be matched up to the balancer position.
Then I started having doubts. Why bother with balancer being balanced if the position didn't matter.
This is the first one I ever pulled that wasn't key positioned to the crank.
I don't know. Maybe the all the ones that were keyed to crankshaft was to prevent slipping.
But it seems like I remember mopar small block performance motors had a matching balance weight on the torque converter that had to be matched up to the balancer position.
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