Intake Manifold install question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,483
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
Intake Manifold install question
I am going to be attempting to install my intake manifold tommorow. I have different types of RTV, I was told use the black stuff for best results, agreed?
Also. I have a manual for it, but want your opinions... For torquing the manifold down, Should I have to do it more then once? Once I run the motor some and put some miles on it, is it really needed to check it again? The reason I ask is I got some Fancy bolt kit for it and they are allen wrenched, without having the TPI uppers installed its hard to say for sure, but it doesnt seem like it will be an easy task to get an allen bit in there with a TQ wrench after they are installed. Should I leave the fancy bolts off untill I replace intake (SR/MR) down the road, of can I get to them?
Should I do anything to the bolts? Loctite (color?)?
Thanks all
Matt :)
Also. I have a manual for it, but want your opinions... For torquing the manifold down, Should I have to do it more then once? Once I run the motor some and put some miles on it, is it really needed to check it again? The reason I ask is I got some Fancy bolt kit for it and they are allen wrenched, without having the TPI uppers installed its hard to say for sure, but it doesnt seem like it will be an easy task to get an allen bit in there with a TQ wrench after they are installed. Should I leave the fancy bolts off untill I replace intake (SR/MR) down the road, of can I get to them?
Should I do anything to the bolts? Loctite (color?)?
Thanks all
Matt :)
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,763
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From: Connectivette
Re: Intake Manifold install question (VetteRacer282)
I torqued mine down in at least 4 steps-all following the proper sequence.
I think the "black stuff is commonly used but my vette mechanic told me to use "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex. Looks like cheese from a can.
I dont think you can re-torque the intake bolts(except for maybe the two most forward bolts) once the runners and plenum are back on. There is just no room.
I put liquid teflon on my bolt threads.
I found it easy to have two sets of hands to lower the intake. One to guide the back and one for the front. It has to be laid down near perfect. If you don't and the RTV (or whatever you decide to use) smears out of the way, you will have to clean it all back down and do it again.
I think the "black stuff is commonly used but my vette mechanic told me to use "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex. Looks like cheese from a can.
I dont think you can re-torque the intake bolts(except for maybe the two most forward bolts) once the runners and plenum are back on. There is just no room.
I put liquid teflon on my bolt threads.
I found it easy to have two sets of hands to lower the intake. One to guide the back and one for the front. It has to be laid down near perfect. If you don't and the RTV (or whatever you decide to use) smears out of the way, you will have to clean it all back down and do it again.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: West Islip New York
Re: Intake Manifold install question (VetteRacer282)
My own way of doing it was black RTV on the front and rear after dimpling the block and manifold (thanks to Jake for this tip) and then permatex #2 on all bolts.
Torqued in mulitple passes and then torqued again the next day.
Torqued in mulitple passes and then torqued again the next day.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
Re: Intake Manifold install question (1MoorTym)
My own way of doing it was black RTV on the front and rear after dimpling the block and manifold (thanks to Jake for this tip) and then permatex #2 on all bolts.
Torqued in mulitple passes and then torqued again the next day.
Torqued in mulitple passes and then torqued again the next day.
Next day as in 24 hours? No worries about running the motor, etc.. So I could leave the runners off and not worry about it after I run the motor?
Matt
Pro
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Vancouver WA
Re: Intake Manifold install question (VetteRacer282)
MAKE sure all surfaces are CLEAN or you'll have to do this all over because of leaks (been there). From what I can remember when you tighten the manifold you should thighten all bolts a little at a time (around 5lbs should do good) so you don't make the gasket set uneven or something like that. and do like 1MoorTym says.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
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From: West Islip New York
Re: Intake Manifold install question (VetteRacer282)
Dimpling?
Next day as in 24 hours? No worries about running the motor, etc.. So I could leave the runners off and not worry about it after I run the motor?
Matt
Next day as in 24 hours? No worries about running the motor, etc.. So I could leave the runners off and not worry about it after I run the motor?
Matt
Yep, re-torqued the next day before running the motor. It does not need torquing after a heat cycle.
Make sure everything is clean, clean, clean.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Intake Manifold install question (VetteRacer282)
The GM Shop Manual says to torque the stock intake base to 36lb-ft in three stages in a specific pattern. That will be difficult unless you have the proper size allen bit for your torque wrench.
I put a thin layer of black RTV on each side of the FelPro intake manifold gaskets around each water passage.
That's a very good idea to leave just the base installed for 24hrs and then retorque to spec.; thanks for that tip.
I used intake cleaner on the front and rear engine lands followed by a wipe with laquer thinner to assure good adhesion of the RTV.
I put a thin layer of black RTV on each side of the FelPro intake manifold gaskets around each water passage.
That's a very good idea to leave just the base installed for 24hrs and then retorque to spec.; thanks for that tip.
I used intake cleaner on the front and rear engine lands followed by a wipe with laquer thinner to assure good adhesion of the RTV.
