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Ok just came back from fuel pressure check, at idle 34, with vacuum line removed from regulator its 44, going down the road it holds around 34 untill you get on the gas the fuel pressure increases to the low 40's. With engine off the fuel pressure holds.
Sounds like the pump is weak. What is the voltage to the pump when you hit WOT? What is the pressure then? Does it drop severely?
Sounds like the pump is weak. What is the voltage to the pump when you hit WOT? What is the pressure then? Does it drop severely?
I will have to go back over my data logs but I beleive voltage held steady at around 13 volts WOT, when I did the fuel pressure check the fuel pressure increased to low 40's I had a hard time reading the gage with all the sun glear. I now have a new problem as soon as I start it the ses light comes on and its throwing a code 32 for the EGR so I will dig into that this weak.
Do you have a temperature switch in the EGR tube? If so, error code 32 at startup means that the switch is closed. It should only close when hot exhaust gasses are flowing through the tube, so that's an error. This can happen if the EGR temperature switch is bad or the wire is shorted to ground.
Ignition problems follow through all RPM. I know you said vacuum is steady, but you might have a vacuum leak. Have you tried propane enrichment or similar diag? Also ,While its running, pull off one wire at a time 'till you find the one that has no effect. Check compression on that cyl.
Ignition problems follow through all RPM. I know you said vacuum is steady, but you might have a vacuum leak. Have you tried propane enrichment or similar diag? Also ,While its running, pull off one wire at a time 'till you find the one that has no effect. Check compression on that cyl.
If that were the case, maybe he would have a 0 IAC count?
Do you have a temperature switch in the EGR tube? If so, error code 32 at startup means that the switch is closed. It should only close when hot exhaust gasses are flowing through the tube, so that's an error. This can happen if the EGR temperature switch is bad or the wire is shorted to ground.
Ignition problems follow through all RPM. I know you said vacuum is steady, but you might have a vacuum leak. Have you tried propane enrichment or similar diag? Also ,While its running, pull off one wire at a time 'till you find the one that has no effect. Check compression on that cyl.
Before propane, there are only a few hoses to the manifold. Run engine, disconnect hose,plight it up with your fingertips and see if things change.
Did That no change, I am betting on the EGR being the problem even though I checked it earlier in this thread I may have missed something and now that I have a code 32 showing I will check it one more time.
Ok I did the check's on the EGR as described in the FSM, everything checks out good. I went and removed the EGR anyway and it everything looked good, wasn't even that dirty, It holds vacuum and seals up like it should, the test on the solenoid all were good. I decided to do more tests on the fuel pump and according to the FSM I should supply 12 volts to the fuel pump test connector I did this and got sparks and it did not activate the fuel pump. any suggestions, the fuel pump does come on for 2 seconds when I turn the key on and I do get pressure.
Just thinking. The code 32 is a strange distractor. No way should an EGR fault code be set at idle. The EGR should not even crack open until above 15-1800 rpm. A rough idle and worst with a load (in drive) is almost always a vacuum leak. Isolate the brake booster and check idle. Something is leaking somewhere I'll bet.
Just thinking. The code 32 is a strange distractor. No way should an EGR fault code be set at idle. The EGR should not even crack open until above 15-1800 rpm. A rough idle and worst with a load (in drive) is almost always a vacuum leak. Isolate the brake booster and check idle. Something is leaking somewhere I'll bet.
Right now the upper intake is apart but earlier in my post's Vacuum was at 19hg and steady.
I just discovered this thread. Not that I'm any kind of authority, but when you state the problem seems to have started after the plug wire was off, I've seen this scenario cause damage to the ign coil. The theory behind it is that the spark has nowhere to go and causes breakdown issues with the coil. It's not a 100 % cause all the time, but is can cause issues. Just an idea to check. If you have access to a spare coil, maybe try it and see what happens.
Another possibility is that there two or more overlapping issues resulting in the problems.
I hope you get your car fixed soon.
I just discovered this thread. Not that I'm any kind of authority, but when you state the problem seems to have started after the plug wire was off, I've seen this scenario cause damage to the ign coil. The theory behind it is that the spark has nowhere to go and causes breakdown issues with the coil. It's not a 100 % cause all the time, but is can cause issues. Just an idea to check. If you have access to a spare coil, maybe try it and see what happens.
Another possibility is that there two or more overlapping issues resulting in the problems.
I hope you get your car fixed soon.