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Ha! I thought it was me but I just sent you another PM and it does not look like it went through. A used water pump would be better than just changing out the front gasket. If you are in the area and it is no trouble I could buy this pump from you.
I live right off the 121 Tollway and Spring Creek (right next to the Nebraska Furniture Mart).
If we could meet up and you remember to pack the pump that would be great if not .. Thanks for all your help on this forum! It is much appreciated.
Zach Vergara
aka Monk
It looked fine to me but used parts are always a crap shoot I will give it to you if you want it.
Still no pm lol
Last edited by antfarmer2; Aug 18, 2015 at 10:54 PM.
Generally, I would buy new rather than put in a used pump. But since the price is so good (free), you can try to rebuild the old or new/used pump with this kit from Ebay -
And I would still get the new cover gasket - otherwise you can be right back in the same boat again.
As for the opti, this may be a case of since it is already half apart, you may want to take a look at it. But unless you do the work yourself, it can get very pricey very quickly. And if you pull the opti, you might as well change the seals for the water pump and opti in the timing cover.
If you don't already have one, get the Factory Service manual for your year. Here is one for sale on Ebay -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-CORVETTE-GM-FACTORY-REPAIR-SERVICE-SHOP-MANUAL-SET-OF-2-/331620114510?hash=item4d3619604e&vxp=mtr
Make sure you get the red covered two volume set. The white cover sets are only the preliminary books for each year.
I was just doing wires and plugs when I saw the opti cap was damaged from the po water pump replacement. So I changed everything but only needed the cap. After reading in here not sure if I did the right thing but so far so good.
Ok just loaded up the water pump looks great evan has a thermostat for you
Antfarmer2 thanks again! I have made up my mind I am changing out that old water pump. I just did a flush, removed both knock sensors and it was so bad no radiator fluid came out. I had to get a small screwdriver and poke a hole in the the hole where the knock sensor goes and bam! I was showered with NASTY brown fluid. I quickly got oil drain pans under the vette to catch the fluid. After all the fluid came out I put a water hose into the radiator cap and just let it flush out until water came out clear. I then sealed everything back and opened took the heater hose and other one that attaches to the water pump. The water pump pipes that attach to the hose are rusted out. I am going to order water pump gaskets and radiator hose and any connectors and change everything out. I am going to do one more flush with maybe a Preston Flush fluid. I also jacked up the rear and left the cap open to burp the system. I then put the cap back on and everything seemed fine. I did tighten the front water pump face plate and did not see any leaks when the cooling system was pressurized so that is a good sign but I am still going to change it out with the one you gave me. I will take pics of the rusted out water pump when removed. Oh ..Just a note to anyone reading PLEASE disconnect the battery when working on the Knock Sensors. I SAW SPARKS FLY! Yes
Scared the crap out of me. I must have touched the starter with my socket wrench.
I have attached some pics of my work today. I will try and order the parts tomorrow and will give ya'll an update when the come in.
Allways disconnect the battery when doing anything electrical! Do some reading on how to safely jack it up and block and chock don't like what I am seeing your a great guy and don't want you hurt!!!!!
Allways disconnect the battery when doing anything electrical! Do some reading on how to safely jack it up and block and chock don't like what I am seeing your a great guy and don't want you hurt!!!!!
Thanks for the advice. Yes I should have known better about the battery.
I did chock the rear wheels when I had the front jacked up and I also had HD Jackstands and also put wood and bricks under my tires for Double Safety.
The jacking up the rear was only after the car was on and just for the burping I did not go under that car when it was burping but I should have put jack stands just in case the Jack Failed.
Allways disconnect the battery when doing anything electrical! Do some reading on how to safely jack it up and block and chock don't like what I am seeing your a great guy and don't want you hurt!!!!!
Well, I think I am almost done. I burped the system and boy did it burp. I was able to drive around the neighborhood for maybe 15 minutes and the temp stayed at a around 205/209. But then it got dark and guess what? My driver side light would not rotate all the way up. So, I did not take it on the highway like I wanted to. Tomorrow is another day.
Big thanks to this form and Antfarmer2 for helping me out with guidance and his spare water pump set up.
Word of advice look at these pics and see what happens if your cooling system gets contaminated. You will see the corroded upper radiator T to throttle body. This caused me to do the 95 LT1 TB Bypass using the 95 upper radiator hose.
The Heater Hose was also broke, and I had to super glue the Coolant Sensor connector plastic housing on the actual sensor .
Hopefully this water pump holds up and I will do another flush with KNOCK SENSORS out. I am a believer of that since in my opinion I think more than 2 gallons of the 4 gallons in the LT1 is back in the rear of that block.
Let me share some pics. I want to Test out the car on the highway and a longer drive before I call it done.
Cheers C4 owners. The journey that never ends begins.
Good job your getting there!!!! Just raise the hood up then turn the lights on till you fix them most likely you just need the pucks about $6 on fleabay
Good job your getting there!!!! Just raise the hood up then turn the lights on till you fix them most likely you just need the pucks about $6 on fleabay
Big thanks Antfarmer2. That is another project on the list.