First off, i am no mechanic but i researched this job a fair bit before attempting it and feel confident i followed the steps correctly. I finished installing a new timing chain and gears, made sure to have #1 at TDC, both gear marks lined up to each other. Used a gear puller and installer. After everything was reassembled i put the dizzy in with the rotor pointing to #1, i had it out to check the bottom drive gear. I also very recently replaced the cap coil rotor plugs and wires, made sure the wires are all correct also. When i try to start the car it simply cranks and cranks, there is fuel pressure and have spark. I thought maybe i was out 180 on the timing? As i have read some people say this. Does this mean the rotor needs to be turned 180? I tried that and it would barely turn over so i am pretty sure thats not my issue. I also tried moving the dizzy a gear over from pointing at #1 and it would crank worse so i think i have it right. So i guess i am in need of advice. What does it mean when you are out 180 and how do i fix that? How can i tell? Could my tdc have been on the exhuast stroke instead of compression? How can i tell and how do i fix that? I checked that all my sensors are plugged in and tried to start with the little brown plug disconnected. I need some help guys! Thanks in advance

 

first of all, what year? not that it makes that much difference on a SBC, but it's just basic information.

if the timing sprocket marks are aligned, #6 should be at TDC (compression stroke), not #1. since the rotor is keyed to only go in one way, you'll need to pull up enough on the distributor and re-index. basically, you're just out 180.

 

Here's an image explaining the timing orientation:




After your experimentation it's very likely you'll need to start fresh with a confirmation of TDC at #1 using a TDC tool which you can likely get as a free/rental at your local AP store. You might search for an explanation of how to and then also confirm the spark plug wire routing arrangement that you've got in the distributor cap.

Do you have a FSM?

Do you have any sort of motor manual that you used OR ...........

 

You missed one step. After setting the timing chain with the camshaft dot at 6 o'clock and the crankshaft dot at 12 o'clock, you need to rotate the crankshaft a full 360 degrees so that both the camshaft and the crankshaft dots are at 12 o'clock. Then you drop in the distributor pointing to cylinder 1. You are 180 degrees out.

 

Except that he mentioned pulling the distributor and attempting to alter things with gear placement. I believe he needs a "fresh start".

 

pull the number one spark plug, place thumb over spark plug hole, bump the starter and on the compression stroke you'll feel compressed air; look at the damper timing mark, it should be coming up on TDC or just a little past it; pull distributor cap; is the rotor pointed anywhere near the number one spark plug terminal?

 

Its an 89. No fsm just a haynes manual. So basically i likely need to tear it all apart again and start over? That sucks....

 

No, no, no, no. You don't need to start over! mtwoolford has you on the right track! It's an easy fix. He's giving you step #1 to get the engine set up right! Do step #1, and we'll help you get thru this!

 

When I mentioned "fresh start" I only meant with the #1 at TDC. So long as you know that you had the timing marks aligned when you started the assembly it should be an easy recovery. I just mentioned a "mechanical" alternative to a "thumb/pressure" feel for TDC.

Actually some might suggest either, or a combination.

 

Ok wow i feel better now! What i was doing was pulling #1 plug and sticking a thin object in there to feel the piston at tdc. So i need to bump the starter until i have pressure in that plug hole and check my timing markin on the dampner and if its close to 0 then check where my rotor is pointing? Can i bump the starter with the cap off? I kinda of thought that was basically what i was already doing. Although i manually turned the engine over on the pulley bolt with a long breaker bar. If i am 180 out what exactly is out 180? Some people mention pulling the valve cover to see what stroke its on, but that shouldnt be necessary correct? Thanks again guys the old girl has been sitting for nearly 2 months now and i need to get her going!

 

This might be a good read for you. Generally speaking the information is quite accurate and everyone has a little different procedure that they use to accomplish the same thing, thumbs, piston stops etc.

The image I posted should explain the 180, you apparently aligned the dimples "facing one another" which is #6 and for #1 TDC cam dimple needs to be at 12:00 and the crank dimple at 12:00 also. It's something that's done frequently by many.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ng_valve_cover

Don't let the read confuse you and the drop of the distributor is I believe pretty accurate when they mention 5:30. The read can't be considered gospel but it's very good "familiarization".

 

many people have many ways of doing basic timing - might as well give you my 2-cents. (assuming this is a stock L98 engine) I've done this on L98's many times. this is my personal procedure - it seems to work for me. first thing the OP needs to do is get #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. several ways of doing this, but the thumb over the spark plug hole works about as good as anything else. once you feel compression, you can manually tweak the crankshaft to "fine tune" the timing marks. once #1 TDC is established, the rest is pretty easy and straight forward. for me, the key is the front LH fuel rail mounting bolt. first, make sure the slot on the oil pump shaft is aligned or pointing to that fuel rail bolt. now, drop the distributor part way in, keeping the distributor squarely aligned with the CL of the engine. there are four distributor cap mounting screws - those should be parallel and perpendicular to the engine's CL. the coil electrical connections should be at a right angle (LH side) to the CL. with the distributor in part way, rotate the rotor CCW with the rotor pointing to the C4 emblem on the LH valve cover - that should be approximately 30 degrees CCW, and slowly drop the distributor down until fully seated. with a little luck and a little wiggle-giggle, everything should fall into place. as a final check, check the factory scribe mark on be rear base flange of the distributor and a corresponding scribe mark on the intake. the distributor should be sitting squarely on the engine and properly indexed. the rotor should be pointing to the front LH fuel rail bolt, and #1 firing position. snug up the distributor lockdown bolt, connect the distributor wiring, install the cap, plug wires, and you should be good to go. as I said, I've done this more than once, and usually can get the timing within a couple degrees of the factory spec. hoping I've explained this well enough. I am by no means saying this is gospel, but FWIW, and as is said, my personal method.

 

There is nothing special about #1 piston same as the other 7 LOL. if when the marks line up you are on #6 just point the rotor there and move on with it.

 

So I have a 1988 that I just picked up 2 months ago, buddy of mine and I ripped the engine out and replaced the bearings, rings, timing chain, and all your normal tune-up pieces. Its all back together and turns over, but refuses to start. We are 100 percent sure that the mechanical timing is correct, but when we try to start it it sounds like it wants to catch but never does. If we spin the dist cap it will eventually backfire out the intake. We have fuel, we have spark, and we have compression, but no matter how we install the distributor it just wont catch and start. The only thing that we are beginning to lean towards is a weak spark. I replaced the coil, module, cap, rotor, plugs and coil. We get a spark and it is blue in color, but just does not seem to strong as I would expect it to be, but I don't know. Any thoughts?

 

Yep. Read post 12 and do as he says.

 

Thanks for all the helpful input guys! I hope to give it another go tomorrow if it stops raining!

 

Thanks for all the help guys, shes back running again
Now for my other timing problem... I set my timing with the light, brown wire disconnected, turned it off reconnected the wire, and pulled the negative off my battery. I let it sit for 5 mins or so then reconnected the battery, fired it up and my timing is showing way advanced, like above my timing marks by an inch or more. What gives? The computer advancing it for some reason? It also causes it the idle at 1100 rpm, which is what it was doing before when i decided to replaced my timing chain and gears. Happy its runing again but replacing all that didnt help my original issue. Can you guys help me out again?

 

1100 RPM is a bit high. is that thing an auto or manual car? if an auto, did you set the timing in drive or park/neutral?

 

This was all done after cleaning a throttle body which included replacing the IAC but I would think should do well for you also. You don't mention checking the TPS in your posts OR maybe I overlooked. I've never owned an L98 car so if a user that has the '89 - '91 L98 ECM based TPI mentions maybe modifying the procedure then you might want to listen.

Start and run engine until it reaches operating temperature (closed loop)
Check and set ignition timing to 6 degrees before dead center (BDC) with tan EST wire disconnected
Check and set throttle position sensor (TPS) to .54 (+/- .08) volts at idle
Jumper terminals "A" and "B" on the ALDL
Turn ignition key on and do not start engine
Wait 60 seconds so that the idle air control (IAC) motor fully extends
Without turning ignition key off, remove connector from IAC motor
Turn ignition key off and disconnect ALDL jumper
Attach external RPM meter using Tach port or scanner using ALDL port
Start and run engine until it reaches operating temperature (closed loop)
Remove minimum idle air cap using awl if required
Adjust idle speed to 425 (+/- 25) rpm in either in park or neutral
Turn ignition key off and reconnect EST wire and IAC motor
Check and set throttle position sensor (TPS) to .54 (+/- .08) volts at idle
Reset ECM by disconnecting and reconnecting power at battery terminal
Depress accelerator pedal slightly
Start and run engine for 5 seconds
Turn ignition key off for 10 seconds
Drive vehicle to assist in ECM reprogramming
If you used a scanner, you should see around 20 IAC steps -