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asr light and service engine light

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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 11:08 AM
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Default asr light and service engine light

Hello, I have been exploring this forum for some time and have a fewquestions I can’t seem to find answers to. First of all I will start with I havea 1992 corvette, auto Trans. The car is bone stock with 140k miles. I had thetransmission rebuilt which turned into a big headache because the shop had noidea how to set the cables on the “ASR” eventually he called someone in andthey got it set up and the transmission now works flawlessly. After I got mycar back it now has a check engine light, a service ASR light ,occasionally aService ABS light and now my Air conditioning does not work which it always didprior. The ASR would kick in before and cause my gas pedal to surge every sinceI bought the car so I always just pushed the button to turn the ASR off butnever had a service ASR light before. I pulled the codes and the codes I haveunder module 1. Is a C12,module 4. is H26. And module9. is H31 and H64: I cleared the codes and restartedthe car while at idle all light stay off until I turn on the air conditioning whichblows warm…then I get a service ASR light. I shut the car off and pull codesagain and I get a code H64 under module 9. Am I correctin saying that the code 64 under module 9. is for the IAC? Could this create myother faults as well? I would just take my car back to them but they are a hackshop in my opinion. Thanks for any advice.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 11:43 AM
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H64 is a history that I'm quite sure is TPS related in the ASR/ABS, the H31 which you don't mention again is I believe R/R wheel speed.

Pick a single issue and do them one at a time. I'd think the CEL the first to be concerned about.

The diagnostics for each need to be done separately. If there were something in any of the related errors that put the car in "limp home" I would think it would defeat the AC.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 19, 2015 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
H64 is a history that I'm quite sure is TPS related in the ASR/ABS, the H31 which you don't mention again is I believe R/R wheel speed.

Pick a single issue and do them one at a time. I'd think the CEL the first to be concerned about.

The diagnostics for each need to be done separately. If there were something in any of the related errors that put the car in "limp home" I would think it would defeat the AC.

Which one of these codes would promt a CEL light?
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 63belair
Which one of these codes would promt a CEL light?
There's substantial misinformation put there regarding attempting to do diagnostics using the MODULES and the DIC. I have no idea which you are using and if they're even correct.

If you're not using FSM diagnostic procedures "all bets are off" as to how factual your codes actually are. You mention all H codes and those are HISTORY that shouldn't set a CEL under nearly all circumstances.

Several days ago I saw something that mentioned a module 7 for ASR/ABS for a '92, well I doubt that. 9.7 I believe is to clear codes but this information SAID MODULE 7, I believe it was from a thread here. I pay very little attention to some of that.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 19, 2015 at 12:19 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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Humm im now a little lost.. I am jumping the connector from pin A and G and reading the codes on my dash where the speedo is. What is the FSM procedure? Evertime I shut the car off and restart it the CEL is gone for a few miles... so all codes would probably be history? I understood there were 3 modules?
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 63belair
Humm im now a little lost.. I am jumping the connector from pin A and G and reading the codes on my dash where the speedo is. What is the FSM procedure? Evertime I shut the car off and restart it the CEL is gone for a few miles... so all codes would probably be history? I understood there were 3 modules?
I'm guessing this is what's happening, the code 26 is a QDM failure and that is set by the ECM seeing an unexpected voltage from some component and of course it goes away at KEY OFF (I believe) and then of course wouldn't reset until the ECM saw that failure again.

I'd say you could move on and try the ASR/ABS diagnostics and you have that H64 that is a TPS related I'm quite sure.

I have a friend who tells me I would "fail drivability" so take that for what it's worth.

Research your ABS/ASR codes
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I'm guessing this is what's happening, the code 26 is a QDM failure and that is set by the ECM seeing an unexpected voltage from some component and of course it goes away at KEY OFF (I believe) and then of course wouldn't reset until the ECM saw that failure again.

I'd say you could move on and try the ASR/ABS diagnostics and you have that H64 that is a TPS related I'm quite sure.

I have a friend who tells me I would "fail drivability" so take that for what it's worth.

Research your ABS/ASR codes

Ok thanks, I ordered a replacement TPS I will go from there..
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 63belair
Ok thanks, I ordered a replacement TPS I will go from there..
I didn't say it needed a TPS - I just said I thought the ABS/ASR code pointed towards a TPS problem. Could be connector issues, burnt, frayed or poor wiring. Check what needs to be done for diagnostics. If you're going to attempt your own repairs and diagnostics I suggest you buy a FSM>

Maybe make yourself a good jumper from a piece of 10 or 12 SOLID CORE insulated wire (ROMEX/whatever), hammer the ends a little to fit the ALDL a little better than just the stranded most use and when the CEL appears just check it, I'm guessing that maybe the 26 will be an active code at that point.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 19, 2015 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I didn't say it needed a TPS - I just said I thought the ABS/ASR code pointed towards a TPS problem. Could be connector issues, burnt, frayed or poor wiring. Check what needs to be done for diagnostics. If you're going to attempt your own repairs and diagnostics I suggest you buy a FSM>

Maybe make yourself a good jumper from a piece of 10 or 12 SOLID CORE insulated wire (ROMEX/whatever), hammer the ends a little to fit the ALDL a little better than just the stranded most use and when the CEL appears just check it, I'm guessing that maybe the 26 will be an active code at that point.

Ok I understand what your saying about the TPS.
Can i check the CEL code without shutting off the car? While the CEL is lit?
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 63belair
Ok I understand what your saying about the TPS.
Can i check the CEL code without shutting off the car? While the CEL is lit?
I've seen that debated from time to time and some feel it shouldn't be done because it changes the loop of the ECM. I don't know that it does. I really don't know but it's only a diagnostic tool when used in the fashion the C4 (most years) is wired. I've never paid particular attention to the FSM looking for a DON'T. I always thought it was very early ECM's that maybe altered the "loop" of an ECM when the ALDL was jumpered.

I think when A & B are jumped to do the CEL only then the car needs to be KEY-ON NOT RUNNING. Check - that's an interesting question.

I'd say with your adventure why not just have someone with an appropriate scanner just do a drive with you and scan it. Perhaps the shop you feel is such a "hack" can do a scan while you drive. It's certainly something to consider. The ASR/ABS adjustment is difficult for those that "THINK THEY UNDERSTAND" sometimes. The fact they struggled I don't think should put them in the "hack" category. Maybe? Yes.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 19, 2015 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I've seen that debated from time to time and some feel it shouldn't be done because it changes the loop of the ECM. I don't know that it does. I really don't know but it's only a diagnostic tool when used in the fashion the C4 (most years) is wired. I've never paid particular attention to the FSM looking for a DON'T. I always thought it was very early ECM's that maybe altered the "loop" of an ECM when the ALDL was jumpered.

I think when A & B are jumped to do the CEL only then the car needs to be KEY-ON NOT RUNNING. Check - that's an interesting question.

I'd say with your adventure why not just have someone with an appropriate scanner just do a drive with you and scan it. Perhaps the shop you feel is such a "hack" can do a scan while you drive. It's certainly something to consider. The ASR/ABS adjustment is difficult for those that "THINK THEY UNDERSTAND" sometimes. The fact they struggled I don't think should put them in the "hack" category. Maybe? Yes.
That sounds like a good idea to have something to ride with me I appreciate that information. Yeah I wasn't going to get too lengthy with it but this was the fourth time the car has been back for transmission problems and they had the car 6 months this time. Also while they had my car the radiator cracked and they had to replace the radiator. To make a long story short there are bolts missing, my relays are just laying there not mounted where they'r supposed to be and now I have all these issues. it's funny every time I take something in to have work done it gets messed up. so that is the reason I like to try to do things myself
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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Ok now that my head gaskets are done… I’m looking to continuetrouble shooting my check engine light and my Service ASR light.

I cleared all the codes, and as soon as I turn the key back to the on position I get a code 64 under module 9. This happens before I evenstart the car. Code 64 is for TPS? I did replace the throttle position sensor. Doesthis mean I have a wiring issue or something else? Or where do I go from here? Ifigured I would trace down this code first? I do have the ars kicking in atrandom and fighting my gas pedal. I checked the wires in front of the rightrear wheel and they all seem to be intact.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Today i was trying to troubleshoot these codes and found fuse #9 in the fusebox blown. the fusebox I'm referring to is on the right side of the dash. I replaced the fuse and reset all the codes. I then restarted the car and turned on the AC and also noticed the primary fan working which was not working prior. The ARS light and check engine light stayed off running in the garage for 20min and i was excited I then drove the car and unfortunatly the ARS light came on then the check engine light then the ABS light. I checked the fuse again and it was blown.
the description for this fuse is Transmission Clutch Control Brake Switch (auto) {i don't know what this is}Daytime running light module, {i don't think i have these},A/C solenoid (C69), cooling fan relay {makes sense that now my fan would work},4/6 gear relay,ignition module (LT5),secondary solenoid (LT5),Camshaft sensor,(LT5),exhausts recirculation control (LT1), Air switch Solenoid (LT1),Air control valve (LT1), Alternator (LT1)
i have no idea where to start to see why this fuse is blowing? Please help.
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