Brake Pedal Brake Light Switch Replacement
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Brake Pedal Brake Light Switch Replacement
The third brake light has never worked on my 1992 ZR1. The bulbs are good so I am assuming the brake pedal switch may be the culprit. I removed all the trim and found two switches, the one on the left has two wire harnesses connected to it, a 3 wire connection (12 ga wire?) on the side and a 2 wire (smaller gauge) on the rear. The switch on the right has what appears to be a tube of some sort connected to rear. Nothing is connected to the two 2 electrical tabs.
Which switch/wire connector is tied to the third brake light and how is switch removed? It looks to be threaded into a fitting that passes through the mount. There is no room to turn the switches themselves.
Are replacement switches available?
Any help would be appreciated!
Which switch/wire connector is tied to the third brake light and how is switch removed? It looks to be threaded into a fitting that passes through the mount. There is no room to turn the switches themselves.
Are replacement switches available?
Any help would be appreciated!
#2
Melting Slicks
The third brake light has never worked on my 1992 ZR1. The bulbs are good so I am assuming the brake pedal switch may be the culprit. I removed all the trim and found two switches, the one on the left has two wire harnesses connected to it, a 3 wire connection (12 ga wire?) on the side and a 2 wire (smaller gauge) on the rear. The switch on the right has what appears to be a tube of some sort connected to rear. Nothing is connected to the two 2 electrical tabs.
Which switch/wire connector is tied to the third brake light and how is switch removed? It looks to be threaded into a fitting that passes through the mount. There is no room to turn the switches themselves.
Are replacement switches available?
Any help would be appreciated!
Which switch/wire connector is tied to the third brake light and how is switch removed? It looks to be threaded into a fitting that passes through the mount. There is no room to turn the switches themselves.
Are replacement switches available?
Any help would be appreciated!
the switches if i remember rite don't turn they slide in a ratchet tab. unhook the wires and wiggle the switch out. once you have out you can test with a volt meter in see if the switch is broken.
the switch should be available even at your local parts store
Last edited by s carter; 09-06-2015 at 04:22 PM.
#3
For a '92 ZR-1 it might be easier to check for power at the ABS. The same light blue wire is used as a control wire for the ABS as the CHMSL.
If you have a FSM see 8A-110-0 and 8A-44-0 for explanations. I would think it much easier than struggling under the column. If indeed it is the SLS they're quite readily available still.
If you have a FSM see 8A-110-0 and 8A-44-0 for explanations. I would think it much easier than struggling under the column. If indeed it is the SLS they're quite readily available still.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
For a '92 ZR-1 it might be easier to check for power at the ABS. The same light blue wire is used as a control wire for the ABS as the CHMSL.
If you have a FSM see 8A-110-0 and 8A-44-0 for explanations. I would think it much easier than struggling under the column. If indeed it is the SLS they're quite readily available still.
If you have a FSM see 8A-110-0 and 8A-44-0 for explanations. I would think it much easier than struggling under the column. If indeed it is the SLS they're quite readily available still.
#5
Melting Slicks
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It turned out to be the switch. There are three contractors that are associated with the 3-wire connector. The center is orange-12 vdc source and the left wire is blue and the right wire is white. When I placed a jumper between the orange and white wire, the rear lights came on, when I placed a jumper between orange and light blue wire, the third light came on. The switch can be disassembled, so I cleaned the contractors with 400 grit sand paper and everything now works fine.
#7
It turned out to be the switch. There are three contractors that are associated with the 3-wire connector. The center is orange-12 vdc source and the left wire is blue and the right wire is white. When I placed a jumper between the orange and white wire, the rear lights came on, when I placed a jumper between orange and light blue wire, the third light came on. The switch can be disassembled, so I cleaned the contractors with 400 grit sand paper and everything now works fine.