Propshaft U-joint Replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Propshaft U-joint Replacement
1992 coupe - 105k mi. I've already replaced the u-joints on both axels myself, but am still getting a clunking when I reverse from a stop and/or start from a stop. It sounds like its coming from the center/rear of the car.
I suspect it's the propshaft u-joint, though I will try to confirm before tearing into it.
Question: If it is the propshaft u-joint, is this a one-person job? I have an indoor garage, but no lift. I have jack stands. Anything I need to do or look out for?
I do have a FSM, but I'm looking for any practical advice.
I suspect it's the propshaft u-joint, though I will try to confirm before tearing into it.
Question: If it is the propshaft u-joint, is this a one-person job? I have an indoor garage, but no lift. I have jack stands. Anything I need to do or look out for?
I do have a FSM, but I'm looking for any practical advice.
Last edited by woodyupstate; Sep 10, 2015 at 03:11 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
From: Lecanto Florida
1992 coupe - 105k mi. I've already replaced the u-joints on both axels myself, but am still getting a clunking when I reverse from a stop and/or start from a stop. It sounds like its coming from the center/rear of the car.
I suspect it's the propshaft u-joint, though I will try to confirm before tearing into it.
Question: If it is the propshaft u-joint, is this a one-person job? I have an indoor garage, but no lift. I have jack stands. Anything I need to do or look out for?
I do have a FSM, but I'm looking for any practical advice.
I suspect it's the propshaft u-joint, though I will try to confirm before tearing into it.
Question: If it is the propshaft u-joint, is this a one-person job? I have an indoor garage, but no lift. I have jack stands. Anything I need to do or look out for?
I do have a FSM, but I'm looking for any practical advice.
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,365
Likes: 2,735
if you are taking the studs off the manifold, and they are not like...new...then soak them in liquid wrench for a while so you do not break any. i broke 3.
cheers and good luck with the u joint.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Check your "teflon" washer and rear bearing torque as well if you dont find any play in the u joints. The wheel bearing will have a pop/clunk if the washer is scarred up and not providing the friction release it was designed to do.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
The clunk issue started shortly after I changed the half-shaft u-joints on my '95 6-spd. I didn't take advice given here and left the original Teflon washers on. I have purchased new washers and hope to install them this weekend.
I also replaced the drive shaft u joints by myself. I put the rear wheels on ramps. This gave me enough room to drop the exhuast. The fsm tells you to move the c-beam which can be a royal PITA. I has no issues getting the shaft past the c-beam with it in place. I have read that will be an issue if you have auto transmission.
If I get my washers changed today, I will let you know if it helps.
I also replaced the drive shaft u joints by myself. I put the rear wheels on ramps. This gave me enough room to drop the exhuast. The fsm tells you to move the c-beam which can be a royal PITA. I has no issues getting the shaft past the c-beam with it in place. I have read that will be an issue if you have auto transmission.
If I get my washers changed today, I will let you know if it helps.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 243
Since your 92 is an LT1 you'll have to drop the exhaust, I don't see any way working around it to get to the prop shaft. I managed to do the same job by myself and also without a lift. I used 6 ton jack stands so the car was at a comfortable working height. I found having and extra creeper to roll the exhaust on after unbolting from the car made maneuvering it much easier. I also used spare jack stands while mounting/dismounting it as my extra pairs of hands. It's a very doable job in the home garage, I say go for it. Absolutely recommend spicer joints but there are others to choose from. I also recommend sealed joints (non greasable). The sealed joints are stronger but also think of how difficult it would be to access the grease zerk to service greasable joints periodically.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
After installation you will NOT be able to access the zerks so if you do buy these make sure you fill them with grease first. As for strength, unless you are pushing 500hp and doing burn outs or racing I wouldnt worry about breaking one.
Good luck!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
So, took the time to replace the driver's-side teflon washer today. I also replaced the inner u-joint. (When I pulled the half-shaft, one of the caps came off and revealed that all of the needle bearings were gone.) So, after putting everything back together, I gave it a test drive and no "clunk". I think my issue was more from a bad u-joint than a bad teflon washer though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,185
Likes: 381
From: Lunenburg MA
So, took the time to replace the driver's-side teflon washer today. I also replaced the inner u-joint. (When I pulled the half-shaft, one of the caps came off and revealed that all of the needle bearings were gone.) So, after putting everything back together, I gave it a test drive and no "clunk". I think my issue was more from a bad u-joint than a bad teflon washer though.
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,365
Likes: 2,735
nice work on the repair job. mine was the exact same. a shower of needle bearings on the inner ujoint.
regarding u joint installation on the half shaft. is the half shaft symmetrical? like would it matter if it was turned 180degrees and installed? would it affect anything?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
nice work on the repair job. mine was the exact same. a shower of needle bearings on the inner ujoint.
regarding u joint installation on the half shaft. is the half shaft symmetrical? like would it matter if it was turned 180degrees and installed? would it affect anything?
regarding u joint installation on the half shaft. is the half shaft symmetrical? like would it matter if it was turned 180degrees and installed? would it affect anything?
The half shafts are symmetrical, but the FSM says to mark the half shaft so that it goes in exactly like it came out. My assumption is that if you turned it 180 degrees, you may have vibration issues.