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Only 2 cars faster on street tires. I beat many others on R-comps in Raw time. My competition Greg Vincent is a VERY good driver (didn't have the results at nationals he wanted but still very fast) 1K custom front bar, and 4K shocks on that S2K. I have factory Z07 stuff and some $600 Koni's.
If you are not running Bridgestone RE71R's or Rival S's then likely your going to be slower than you could be at least with 200TW tires. I bet the RE71R's can rival many 100TW tires. They are THAT good.
You all run and setup what you like but YOUR WRONG IMHO.
You'll notice TurbineSurge is running a square setup. I don't get how the staggered setup is somehow better. The results/experience prove otherwise?!
I'd be happy to share my car's setup if anyone cares.
I'm not sure why you are getting excited, I don't think anyone has doubted any of your suggestions. I think everyone is in agreement 315 square is the way to go. I also agree that the bmh rear spring is too much unless you are running a xtreme spring up front. The only reason why I am running it is because I had a little splintering on my nyu spring. And as always I would love to drive your car or any one else's autocross machine. Locally my car gets around like a ****, I let anyone whom I think can handle the car drive it and I like to try as many other cars as I can. I could drop names of solo national competitors around town that I race with but what's the point. The guy asked about tires and I gave him my opinion based on what I experienced. If you want to be the fastest you use purple crack, there really isn't a street tire class for our cars and if there was you would have to spend lots of money on custom 18" wheels to run 315 rivals.
Question? Do the softer spring rates make the '85 - '87 Z51s in stock form better auto crossers?
Yes, they did some testing and found even with lower spring rates the car handled just as good. In fact back in the day the early 85-87 cars are regarded as better handling cars than the later cars at least at low speeds. However, I feel this is not true today due to the newer rules about tire sizes and and tire availability at least in B Street class.
I'm not sure why you are getting excited, I don't think anyone has doubted any of your suggestions. I think everyone is in agreement 315 square is the way to go. I also agree that the bmh rear spring is too much unless you are running a xtreme spring up front. The only reason why I am running it is because I had a little splintering on my nyu spring. And as always I would love to drive your car or any one else's autocross machine. Locally my car gets around like a ****, I let anyone whom I think can handle the car drive it and I like to try as many other cars as I can. I could drop names of solo national competitors around town that I race with but what's the point. The guy asked about tires and I gave him my opinion based on what I experienced. If you want to be the fastest you use purple crack, there really isn't a street tire class for our cars and if there was you would have to spend lots of money on custom 18" wheels to run 315 rivals.
LOL, yeah your probably right. I just keep seeing, "my 275/315 combo is great." Well, it might be but....
I guess I just want people to do stuff the most right way? IDK? I like seeing C4's being competitive so....
I bet you had to drop the rear bar down in size to run the BMH spring? Yes/No?
Unless you are running B Street or STU they have no home on Street tires. Yes, they moved the C4 into STU BUT not the LT4 or ZR1 cars.
I'm rolling on C5 Wagon wheels shod with 275/35/18 RE71R's. Even in STU that is the widest tire Bridgestone makes in an 18". So you really don't need the custom wheels. Unless, you run a Rival S, but I perfer the Stones' over them.
LOL, yeah your probably right. I just keep seeing, "my 275/315 combo is great." Well, it might be but....
I guess I just want people to do stuff the most right way? IDK? I like seeing C4's being competitive so....
I bet you had to drop the rear bar down in size to run the BMH spring? Yes/No?
Unless you are running B Street or STU they have no home on Street tires. Yes, they moved the C4 into STU BUT not the LT4 or ZR1 cars.
I'm rolling on C5 Wagon wheels shod with 275/35/18 RE71R's. Even in STU that is the widest tire Bridgestone makes in an 18". So you really don't need the custom wheels. Unless, you run a Rival S, but I perfer the Stones' over them.
I didn't know they allowed the c4 in stu, that's cool. I run the factory 85 fe1 rear bar, it's very small. His car is also a 85 so the offset requires a custom wheel, I suppose he could run a big spacer.
I didn't know they allowed the c4 in stu, that's cool. I run the factory 85 fe1 rear bar, it's very small. His car is also a 85 so the offset requires a custom wheel, I suppose he could run a big spacer.
To the best of my knowledge the total roll stiffness of the back end of these cars reaches a point of smaller Z51 spring/big bar or EVEN stiffer spring/small bar. It has to do with the geometry and jacking. I was just curious.
I run 12mm spacers on all four as the C5 wagons are not correct offset. 61+ instead of 56+, I'm taking advantage of the +/- 7mm rule as well.
OK guys. My NT01s just got delivered and Im hoping to get them mounted tomorrow. We have our points event next weekend so I don't really have much time to try differant pressures so for those that have run them before wheres a good pressure to start with ?
OK guys. My NT01s just got delivered and Im hoping to get them mounted tomorrow. We have our points event next weekend so I don't really have much time to try differant pressures so for those that have run them before wheres a good pressure to start with ?
I've always had better luck with the higher than I think most people like. Around 32-34 all around. I have just under 2 degrees of camber front and back.
I was running 38 front and rear with my street tires. Ive only got .5 degrees of camber in the front (Im getting another alignment done soon). How should I compensate for the lower camber?
I was running 38 front and rear with my street tires. Ive only got .5 degrees of camber in the front (Im getting another alignment done soon). How should I compensate for the lower camber?
I run about 28F/26R, the best way to find your optimal pressures and camber is with a probe type pyrometer.
The rear is lowered. The car is level know but I think I'm going to lower the front as well. I have only run NCCC events in class 2E. I'll do 9 or 10 tune and test events and maybe 1 or 2 point events.
I would make all your ride height adjustments before taking it to the alignment shop, lower the front and you should be able to get around 2 deg with stock arms and bushings. Be careful not to lower the rear too much or you will end up in the bumpstops. Pull out all your front shims and have them put about 1/8 toe out, If there is a big difference in camber L/R then add a little to get within .5 deg. In the rear I would run 1/8 toe in and -1.5 camber. Get a tire pyrometer or find one to borrow and take temps I/C/O to adjust pressures and note if more camber is needed. I would probably start with 35 psi cold all around and lower as you go. I was having trouble getting heat into the tires so I may have been too low in pressure. If you only had -.5 deg of camber then a good alignment will make a big difference, plus the new tires, you should be ready to rock. let us know how it goes!