might have gotten it out of the water

 

Hopefully that is all it was. There is a half tank still in there. I am going to try and run it all out and then replace the plugs. Anything else you can think of that I should do?

Thanks
Wade

 

I would pump it out the shrader till it was good.

 

I drove it pretty hard yesterday. It is idling better and ran great for over an hour. I got it home and it cranked right up after sitting for 15 minutes.
I have no doubt that there was bad gas in it but I am wondering if the gas tank vent hose collapsed and when I pulled the pump again it fixed the problem? Maybe I did not have the hose clamp all the way up on the tube and it pinched the hose????

Anyway, I am replacing the plugs and wires this weekend. Any advice on what plugs and wires? Regular AC plugs? Any of the box stores have good wires? What should I look for when buying wires.

Thank you for all of your help!!!

Wade

 

I stayed with stock make sure they all click twice. I moved my power steering pump forward to get through the hell hole on my 94 do one at a time!!!!!!!

 

Well still not fixed. Got it started last weekend, drove great for over an hour. Let it sit for 5 minutes and still cranked right up. The next day it would not crank same thing of almost catching and running but then just spin.
I bought a fuel pressure Guage and these are my results.
Key on immediately 40 psi.
After 20 minutes it dropped to 35.
After 45 minutes it was about 29-30.
It's been well over 2 hours and pressure has been holding around 23 psi.

So this eliminates fuel pressure as the problem? I found an article from corvette fever that says,
"The next step is to check for leaking fuel injectors. Install the fuel-pressure gauge, pressurize the system, turn the key off, and note the time it takes for a pressure drop of 20 psi to occur. If the time exceeds 20 minutes, you likely you have a faulty fuel-pump check valve or pressure regulator, or a leaking injector."

The wording confuses me a bit. It is or is not supposed to drop 20 psi in 20 minutes or its not supposed to drop 20 psi in 20 minutes?

 

what do you mean just spin? the starter? my 94 will hold pressure all night yours sounds better than most

 

I think the best way to explain it is that it may or may not start if you just sit there and play with the gas pedal and the key for 10 minutes or more. Sometimes it cranks for a few seconds like if you were pouring gas directly into the motor but then dies when all the gas is gone.sometimes it has cranked and run great. Come back out the next day and it does the same crap.

So I have spark
Have fuel and adequate fuel pressure
Fuel pump is good.
Filter was replaced
Plugs were replaced
Cap, rotor, coil replaced
ICM replaced with dielectric grease

I don't get it. What else could it be? MAP sensor maybe? But why will it cranks sometimes and run?????

 

any code or check engine light? next time it will not start try holding the gas pedel to the floor. any fuel in the oil?

 

It has an H41 code and I think it an error in module 7. I will have to check again. I will check for fuel smell in the oil too.

 

Can you clamp off the return line? I would get someone to pressurize it, clamp it off soon as the pump stops and see what the pressure is. I have never tested leaky injectors before. I always send them off every 3 years to be tested and cleaned. If anything leaks, the first suspect would be the fuel pulse dampner since that is basically slipped on.

What I would like to see, based on your results is what it does at WOT but since the car doesn't run, No way I can see doing that test. Tentatively, I would say that based on your results, I would not suspect fuel pressure to be an issue since it seems to be holding pressure. I still suspect a fuel delivery issue from the fuel rail to the cylinder. Is it really pulsing the injectors? IDK. Just because you see the noid light don't mean that ALL the injectors are really pulsing and spraying when they should.

If you have stock injectors, I would throw them away and get Bosch III reman ones. If you changed the fuel filter and it is getting good pressure, the last thing you can check is the sock in the tank but even then, I doubt it is that bad. It seems to run when you spray fuel into the intake, right? So that points towards the injectors. You say it is giving pulses with the noid light. That SEEMS to indicate that the injectors are getting pulses. That raises 2 questions.

1. ARE YOU SURE that the pulses are right? IOW, it may be pulsing erratically if the controller is not right. When I first got my car, we didn't know what was wrong till we eliminated everything and it was the ECM. Problem is you can't really test the ECM at home easily so it is by process of elimination for the mere mortals.
2. Lets say it is pulsing right. ARE YOU SURE the injectors are ALL responding APPROPRIATELY to the pulsing? IOW if it pulses but the pintle is plugged, it doesn't help. Everything about my pulses was right but I had one collapsed filter basket. You can ohm it all day long or you can put the noid light till the cows come home but besides putting it on a bench, you don't know that. All my other injectors were not doing right either but you don't know squat till you put it on a bench and see what the spray volume and pattern is. Till then you are guessing. So if Jon at FIC tells you that the injectors are Multec and suggests you clean them, fine. IF not, you get a rebult set. Either way you need the injectors tested and cleaned and either way it turns out, it is necessary, IMO which is why I suggest it.

If you have old injectors, ARE YOU SURE they are worth rehabbing? Sooner or later, Multecs will get eaten up by the ethanol. IIRC, the fuel cools the coil and ethanol is corrosive to the windings. I don't know why people are so resistant to taking the injectors out for cleaning and testing on a regular basis but they will put the highest dollar oil they can get or argue about how one oil has a slight edge over the other.

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