When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok so I just replaced all my injector O-rings, the ones for tubes on the rail and feed/return, then I installed & tested it for leaks(I used plenty of dish soap to lube all O-rings at each install point). Now I had replaced the feed/return not too long ago when I had the fuel lines off to do something else, but noticed the new O-rings had some damage.
Anyways then I went to install my slp runners and of course they wouldn't fit, well I only messed with the pass side and saw no point trying the drivers until the pass is on. The runner in no way would fit, so I then waited until the next morning for pressure to drop and loosened the rail per instructions and tried to get it to fit and it still wouldn't, even after pulling the rail up some. So I decided to grind and clearance it some and still couldn't get it to fit. But by then I had bumped one of the injectors(#2) enough times it started to leak at the top(clips installed).
So now my question is replace the leaky O-rings or just start over & replace them all after I pull the rail completely so I can put these Fing runners on! Figured I'd ask since this is my 1st time messing with injectors & O-rings and didn't think they was that finicky they would leak so easily.
Besides at this point if the car is gonna burn it's gonna be because I poured a can of gas on it and lit the POS up myself
Use vasoline to install the o rings. It won't dry up like soap. I use to think like you but as many installs as I've done on rails I've found if the o rings look good and are still rubber feeling use them. You would also be surprised how much they vary in size. Compare all you have and pick the biggest of them. Clearancing is OK on the runners. Do what you have to. They don't need extreme tightening. If you have trouble sealing some no hardening rtv or that blue crap that is equivalent to hylomar is pretty good stuff.
The vasoline will fix the o ring problem. Don't tighten one side at a time. I always put both runners, thread the long bolts about 3 threads then add the plenum. Then add the shorter bolts.
Last edited by rithsleeper; Sep 19, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
Use vasoline to install the o rings. It won't dry up like soap. I use to think like you but as many installs as I've done on rails I've found if the o rings look good and are still rubber feeling use them. You would also be surprised how much they vary in size. Compare all you have and pick the biggest of them. Clearancing is OK on the runners. Do what you have to. They don't need extreme tightening. If you have trouble sealing some no hardening rtv or that blue crap that is equivalent to hylomar is pretty good stuff.
The vasoline will fix the o ring problem. Don't tighten one side at a time. I always put both runners, thread the long bolts about 3 threads then add the plenum. Then add the shorter bolts.
Thx for the advice, the plan so far was to pull the rail, replace O-rings, set the rail on, install runners and then pushdown the rail, tighten & test for leaks. Guess I should have test fit before I pulled the rail the 1st time.
If you have "comprehensive" insurance I'd delete the last line of your post!!
I'd think you have no issues with the actual injector O-rings. You might just remove, re-lube and reinstall.
unless you tore the O-rings just use them over again...I did this job about 2 months ago when I installed new lifters in my engine..I also had a terrible time getting my Accel runners in under the fuel rails, they're much bigger then stock...I had to lift the fuel rails, install the runners , then try to get the injectors back in without messing up the O-rings...It took me longer to get the O-rings in and sealed, then it did to install the lifters... 5 hours to install lifters...1 full day to get the injector O-rings to seal.......If I ever have to take the top off of my motor again , I swear I'm getting a "Mini Ram" so I don't have to screw with the fuel rails .....WW
PS: Take a finger with Vasoline on it and smear a small amount into the manifold bore where the injector goes, it makes the o-ring slide in easy without causing them turn over...
Well finally got back at it and pulled the rail. It was barley in, so I know I could not have lifted it more. I looked at the o-rings and a few looked kinda iffy so I just replaced them all, why take a chance was only $12. Started the runners and installed the rail then noticed that the fuel return line was on the runner so I tried to bend it and it wouldn't budge. So I carefully taped off and covered everything then unbolted the runner and ground down the spot maybe an 1/8". Still hit when the runner was snugged up, fit right in the groove I ground nicely. Figured why not try to bend it again and it went and now I got enough clearance I wouldn't have had to grind the runner. Not sure why it deiced to go I tried both times the same exact way and prob used less pressure the 2nd time. Anyways who cares passed leak test and I cleaned up my mess.
So I started to put the plenum on and of course the slp kit one bolt had messed up threads. It started fine but then ruined a few threads, so now I gotta go buy a tap & another bolt and fix it. I'd post a pic of the bolt but it's somewhere in the field behind my garage.
Well finally got back at it and pulled the rail. It was barley in, so I know I could not have lifted it more. I looked at the o-rings and a few looked kinda iffy so I just replaced them all, why take a chance was only $12. Started the runners and installed the rail then noticed that the fuel return line was on the runner so I tried to bend it and it wouldn't budge. So I carefully taped off and covered everything then unbolted the runner and ground down the spot maybe an 1/8". Still hit when the runner was snugged up, fit right in the groove I ground nicely. Figured why not try to bend it again and it went and now I got enough clearance I wouldn't have had to grind the runner. Not sure why it deiced to go I tried both times the same exact way and prob used less pressure the 2nd time. Anyways who cares passed leak test and I cleaned up my mess.
So I started to put the plenum on and of course the slp kit one bolt had messed up threads. It started fine but then ruined a few threads, so now I gotta go buy a tap & another bolt and fix it. I'd post a pic of the bolt but it's somewhere in the field behind my garage.
As long as the bolt didn't end up thrown thru your windshield your ok...Isn't working on the L98 engine fun???.......WW
Ok so I just replaced all my injector O-rings, the ones for tubes on the rail and feed/return, then I installed & tested it for leaks(I used plenty of dish soap to lube all O-rings at each install point). Now I had replaced the feed/return not too long ago when I had the fuel lines off to do something else, but noticed the new O-rings had some damage.
Anyways then I went to install my slp runners and of course they wouldn't fit, well I only messed with the pass side and saw no point trying the drivers until the pass is on. The runner in no way would fit, so I then waited until the next morning for pressure to drop and loosened the rail per instructions and tried to get it to fit and it still wouldn't, even after pulling the rail up some. So I decided to grind and clearance it some and still couldn't get it to fit. But by then I had bumped one of the injectors(#2) enough times it started to leak at the top(clips installed).
So now my question is replace the leaky O-rings or just start over & replace them all after I pull the rail completely so I can put these Fing runners on! Figured I'd ask since this is my 1st time messing with injectors & O-rings and didn't think they was that finicky they would leak so easily.
Besides at this point if the car is gonna burn it's gonna be because I poured a can of gas on it and lit the POS up myself
Hi
Replace all the o rings and wipe a little rubber grease around each o ring, so they slip into the fuel rail and manifold without being nicked on a sharp edge.
Are they standard injectors? Bosch type have a narrow body that do not rest onto the manifold, they can push down into the manifold recess resulting with leaks at the fuel rail.
The Bosch type need 2 o rings at the bottom one at top. Standard GM injectors only need one o ring top and bottom. the retainer clips hold them in place and the body rests on the inlet manifold.
Ok so I just replaced all my injector O-rings, the ones for tubes on the rail and feed/return, then I installed & tested it for leaks(I used plenty of dish soap to lube all O-rings at each install point).
. But by then I had bumped one of the injectors(#2) enough times it started to leak at the top(clips installed).
I have found anytime you get away from using stock parts your likely to have installation problems of some sort...Most times I've changed something on my 89 to improve performance, I end up kicking myself in the azz before Im done........WW
I have found anytime you get away from using stock parts your likely to have installation problems of some sort...Most times I've changed something on my 89 to improve performance, I end up kicking myself in the azz before Im done........WW
I agree I often fit or fix aftermarket parts, I just like to complain when I do.