C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Electrical help please!!!!

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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ToniJ1960
The lowest ohms range most likely 200 ohms full scale
Let me go and check it again. With the Ohm Meter set at 200K, I got an O.L from battery terminal+ to the BAT cable. I got .01 from the terminal+ to the red wire and .00 at the brown wire with the key in the off position. With the key in the on position I got .07.

Let me go out and check it again at 200 on the Ohm Meter and see what I get and also verify what I had before.
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ToniJ1960
The lowest ohms range most likely 200 ohms full scale
Ok, here goes. At 200K BAT is O.L. Red is .0 and Brown is O.L. In the On position, Brown is .0.

Now, at 200 the BAT is still O.L. Red is .3 and Brown is O.L. However in the On position Brown is 38.4.
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Guro305
Ok, here goes. At 200K BAT is O.L. Red is .0 and Brown is O.L. In the On position, Brown is .0.

Now, at 200 the BAT is still O.L. Red is .3 and Brown is O.L. However in the On position Brown is 38.4.
Dont use 200k range it will only resolve to 100 ohms if its 3.5 digits. You want to use a 200 or at worst 2000 ohm range. Two hundred ohms full scale you can resolve to .1 ohm.

Brown being zero with the ign off Im thinking youre reading open circuit. When you connect your leads together and take them apart a few times you can recognize open circuit vs 0 ohms. If you get 38 ohms with the ign on youve got some bad contacts, you should get around 10 ohms. Read from the red wire to the brown wire.

Last edited by ToniJ1960; Sep 29, 2015 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ToniJ1960
Dont use 200k range it will only resolve to 100 ohms if its 3.5 digits. You want to use a 200 or at worst 2000 ohm range. Two hundred ohms full scale you can resolve to .1 ohm.

Brown being zero with the ign off Im thinking youre reading open circuit. When you connect your leads together and take them apart a few times you can recognize open circuit vs 0 ohms. If you get 38 ohms with the ign on youve got some bad contacts, you should get around 10 ohms. Read from the red wire to the brown wire.
I just dont understand how no short one day, short the next. This is the most frustrating experience ever with this car. I'll check the ohms when I get home.
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ToniJ1960
Dont use 200k range it will only resolve to 100 ohms if its 3.5 digits. You want to use a 200 or at worst 2000 ohm range. Two hundred ohms full scale you can resolve to .1 ohm.

Brown being zero with the ign off Im thinking youre reading open circuit. When you connect your leads together and take them apart a few times you can recognize open circuit vs 0 ohms. If you get 38 ohms with the ign on youve got some bad contacts, you should get around 10 ohms. Read from the red wire to the brown wire.
At 200 on the Ohm meter I'm getting from brown to pos term 79.0. From brown to red 78.0. No battery connected for four days now. What is the function of the brown wire? Do you need it?
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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The voltage on the brown wire comes from the ignition switch. On my car it goes through a 510 ohm resistor, but I know on later cars it goes through the battery light bulb on the DIC.

Last edited by Cliff Harris; Oct 4, 2015 at 12:07 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 12:29 AM
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I hooked up the new alternator today minus the brown wire and it's still only cranking out 12volts. Shouldn't it still be cranking out 13.5? And yes Cliff, I believe inside the car it's a brown/white resistance wire. What I want to know is where does that wire go from start to finish?

Hey just out of curiosity and yes I know this is not a "fix" per se but a solution to the problem. How about going old school and converting this 3-wire alt to a 1-wire alt? Wouldn't it be a solution to the problem?

Last edited by Guro305; Oct 4, 2015 at 02:53 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Guro305
I hooked up the new alternator today minus the brown wire and it's still only cranking out 12volts. Shouldn't it still be cranking out 13.5? And yes Cliff, I believe inside the car it's a brown/white resistance wire. What I want to know is where does that wire go from start to finish?

Hey just out of curiosity and yes I know this is not a "fix" per se but a solution to the problem. How about going old school and converting this 3-wire alt to a 1-wire alt? Wouldn't it be a solution to the problem?
I don't think its a god idea really. The alt you have has the voltage regulator built in to it. With all the electronics the Corvette has you better have a regulator.

Take all the connections off at the starter solenoid and clean and inspect them. Have you noticed any issues with your ign switch?

Last edited by ToniJ1960; Oct 4, 2015 at 02:17 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 03:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ToniJ1960
I don't think its a god idea really. The alt you have has the voltage regulator built in to it. With all the electronics the Corvette has you better have a regulator.

Take all the connections off at the starter solenoid and clean and inspect them. Have you noticed any issues with your ign switch?
No issues at all with the ignition. Car starts right up.

How do you wire the one-wire alt? I know the red wire goes to the BAT does the brown wire go anywhere? I've read a couple different posts about it where some just tape it up and leave it and others attach a diode to the end of it.

Last edited by Guro305; Oct 5, 2015 at 02:39 AM.
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