Finally made it to the dyno to find out if it was worth all the work to convert from a Superram to a single plane intake. My Innovate LC1 WB stopped working so I had to abort after three pulls. After some tweaking of spark advance and fuelling I managed to reach approximately similar peak power level as for the Superram. Power under the curve is however down vs the superram. Since the WB went out I never got the chance to go higher than 6100 rpms where the SP probably will shine.

With my current pulley I overspin the blower at 5800 rpms so a larger one is required if going alot higher than 6100. An interesting observation is that increasing spark advance 3 degrees and some leaning of AFR gave 40-50 rwhp increase from 4000-6000 rpms.

Pls note that torque is Nm. I used SAE correction, when changing to STD peak power went up about 15 rwhp's.

I will try to fix my WB so I can take one more round on the dyno before snow starts falling.

 

About the spark advance....
i want to clarify...

You are talking about adding 3 degrees in the 4000 to 6000 range???

Remember, i determined that lower spark advance down low -below 3600 rpm (i cant remember my exact numbers) resulted in more torque down low.

My dilemma with adding more advance up high is that it can sometimes trigger knock sensors then you more than lose whatever you gained resulting in an overall loss in power.

I have a dash mounted casper knock gage to show me if any retard occurs.

Would love to see your timing curve!

 

I made changes of fuel between the runs before I understood the WB was broken. I have no clue what AFR I actually had during the run so its not possible to know how much change of spark advance contributed to the increase in power. FWIW, here are the numbers (rpm, spark advance before and after, boost):
2000, 26.5, 29.5, 1.6 psi
2500, 26.5, 29, 2.3 psi
3000, 24.5, 28.5, 3.5 psi
4000, 20.5, 22, 6.8 psi
5000, 18.5, 21.5, 10,4 psi
6000, --, 21, 12,9 psi

I have some doubts about the stock knock sensor systems ability to detect real knock at elevated rpms (I also recall the Casper unit is based on a stock GM sensor) so I got myself a J&S Safeguard dual knock sensor unit that seems to work pretty good at WOT.

 

I am interested in the numbers of the super ram vs the Single plane.

 

I plotted, quite roughly the numbers from my last run with the single plane intake in one of the plots from my SR dyno runs.

Iits quite a drastic decrease in power at mid rpm but I strongly advice you to take these figures with a big grain of salt. The tune of the single plane intake is most likely far off and note these runs were done on two different dynos.

I suspect figures for the single plane will be alot better after some tuning with a functional WB...

 

Bogor:

My 93s stock knock sensor systen successfully picked up detonation and retarded timing by 10 degrees in a datAlogged incident back in 2011.

My methanol system failed and at that time i did not have a fail safe.

I was getting on it runni g thru gears and when i got into either 2nd or 3rd gear, a severe detonation event occurred.

It felt like someone had put on the brakes, there were popping noises, black smoke was everywhere behind the car. I immediately let off the gas and then noticed methanol system had malfunctioned (warning light and buzzer).

By amazing luck, I had my computer hooked up and was data logging. Sure enough, a severe knock event happened at 5000 rpm and timing was retarded 10 degrees.

I drove home carefully and checked compression on all & cylinders. To my amazement, everything checked out good. I got lucky. The knock system saved my car. This is a stock bottom end (no forged pistons).

The gm knock systems biggest fault is it can be hypersensitive. Causing retard on false knock signals.

However, with the dangers of having a boosted stock bottom end i am willing to work around that hypersensitivity. Better safe than sorry.

That knock system you show is very interesting and could be a great choice when i eventually rebuild with forged components

 

That sounds like a real close call, Im glad you came out of it unharmed (I was not that lucky when I used to run my stock L98 short block).

Since my aftermarket ECU does not have knock sensor capability, I had to come up with something to protect the engine. I tried to hook up my old knock sensor and some home made electronic gizmos but never could make it reliable.John at J&S is very helpfull and I really like the unit. The tricky part is to set the right amount of sensitivety.

 

you are using an s-trim correct? Any plans on selling the s-trim and getting a bigger blower, like a Ti-trim or ysi? I have the wrong cam in my motor now (at 107lsa) but I am making about the same power 650 flywheel with a 383, miniram and t-trim at 11.5 lbs. I hope to make more with a cam swap.

 

I have my eyes on a Novi 1500 that should be fit my current bracketry. I recall a price of about $2200 but when adding shipping, tax, customs etc I will end up around twice that amount, too much for my taste.

I managed to make one more dynorun after repairing the WB. I only made a base line run to adjust the AFR (before hitting it with a more advance and rpms). When working with the laptop the glassfibre/aluminum insulation close to the headers caught fire!
After some exitement and running around with the fire extinguisher everything settled down and no damage outside damaged insulation and some wires.
The powder did however get everywere.

I have found some cool NASA insulation material now also used in the floor board of the C7 I will try (aerogel).
About the cam: I used to run a 114 lsa and a superram and it gave real killer mid rpm torque and severevtraction issues. I think my current 112 lsa cam and the single plane might actually net me better performance on the track.